When Mina and I met for lunch in Tehran, I told her about my plans to visit Isfahan (or Esfahan) for a few days, and she confessed that she had never visited Persia’s former capital city.
“Persians call Isfahan Nesfe Jahan, which means ‘Half of the World,’ ” Mina told me.
And so it was decided, Mina would have to come with me.
While now a bustling modern city, Isfahan was once one of the largest cities in the world as it sat on a major intersection of the main north-south and east-west routes crossing Iran.
We seemed to stumble on reminders of Isfahan’s past glory around every corner, from impressive squares and tree-lined boulevards to covered bridges, palaces and mosques. It was like stepping into a historical novel, only so much better.
Naqsh-e Jahan Square (also Imam Square, or Shah Square) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest city squares in the world:
Rana was particularly excited to see Siosepol, Isfahan’s famous 33-arch bridge: (photo source)
But as we approached the bridge Mina stopped dead in her tracks and stared in dismay. Instead of a glistening lake lying under the bridge, there was only dry, cracked earth. Where was the water?!
A local woman whom we later shared a taxi with explained to us that Isfahan had sent the water to fill another lake area somewhere (…what?), but that they might refill the lake for the Nowruz celebrations (Edit: A couple of helpful readers explained that it is an artificial lake filled by Isfahan’s river, which is now usually stopped by a dam to conserve the water).
She then told us that Isfahan’s sites all seemed to be a story of destruction – many of the palaces and mosques had been drawn or scratched on, water was missing from several places, and even the Menar Jonban’s famous “Swinging Minarets” had stopped working properly after a scientist had come to examine them.
Mina and I looked at each other. Was half of the world falling apart?
Most of the sites in Isfahan are centuries old, so I guess it’s natural that they need a little maintenance now and again. So the city probably isn’t actually falling apart, phew.
Moreover, while Isfahan might be dominated by Islamic architecture, the city is also home to important Christian, Jewish and Zoroastrian sites. Mina and I visited the Church of Saint Joseph of Arimathea, built by an Armenian community that settled in Isfahan in the early 1600s.
And of course no day on the town with Mina would be complete without stopping for a break in a coffee shop.
Mina was pretty critical of this café, which she had heard from a friend was popular in Isfahan. The lights were too bright and the window too open to the street for this Tehran girl!
In fact, while we joked about my having a girl from Tehran as my guide to Isfahan and Mina having a Norwegian-American guide, at the end of our three days in Isfahan we decided that we could have made more of our time if we had known some locals who could show us around.
As it was, we enjoyed visiting many of Isfahan’s sites, but the city as a whole left us both a little underwhelmed. Locals boast that it’s one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and while some of its monuments and architecture could certainly claim that superlative, I’m not sure I would give that title to the city itself.
Maybe I’m just not enough of an art fanatic or maybe we just didn’t know the best places to go in the city, and maybe I’ll just have to visit Isfahan again someday.
We did, however, really love Hotel Sonati, which was just behind Hakim Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in the city.
What to pack as a female traveler in Isfahan
You do have to dress conservatively as a woman in Iran, but you can still wear colorful, pretty clothes! Just make sure that your tops and/or jackets that you wear outside hit around your mid-thigh and aren’t low cut. And a normal scarf will work fine for covering your head – use a lightweight one in the summer and heavier scarf in the winter (and if, like me, you struggle with keeping it on your head, use bobby pins!).
Here are some of my favorite appropriate things to wear in Iran:
The bus from Tehran to Isfahan took about six hours and cost 190,000 Rial ($6).
We shared a double room at Hotel Sonati and each paid about $15 a night.
Most sites in Isfahan charge 150,000 Rial ($5) for foreigners to enter.
I traveled to Iran independently on my Norwegian passport. Some nationalities (including the US and UK at the time of writing) can only visit as part of a tour. And of course I know some people prefer to travel on organized tours anyway.
My top tour recommendation for Iran would be the Discover Persia 14-day G Adventures tour, which I’ve heard nothing but good things about (the itinerary looks amazing!). Check here for the latest Discover Persia tour prices and itinerary.
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Hadi says
i really enjoy to read your stories,and its sweet that you had a great time in Iran with lots of unforgettable memories,i wish you go back to Iran and visit the rest of the country
Silvia says
I definitely want to return to Iran someday and visit more places, Hadi. Hopefully soon!
Amir says
I hope so dear… Persians are hospitable
Ali says
Hi Silvia. Thank you for choosing iran to visit. Excuse me my english is not good :-). Come iran again
Ali says
I forgot to tell you. follow me in instagram if you want. Ali72yavari. I will be glad.
Stefania @The Italian Backpacker says
I have heard of this town before, and now I read your post. It’s a pity that some sites were having some maintenance, but overall it looks like a really interesting place to explore!
Silvia says
Yeah like I said, I think it didn’t quite meet up to its amazing reputation, but that aside it was still a great city to explore!
Wilmerdon says
There aought to be more maintenance really but unfortunately, thanks to US/Europe sanctions, its hardly adequate.
If you haven’t visited Isfahan, I strongly recommend it. It helps if you have a good understanding of the history of the region.
Recently, I have started writing about my experiences there – https://medium.com/@wilmerdon/get-the-contract-or-stay-in-iran-13a2e5db6283
Mona says
I really enjoyed reading your blogs about Iran. My parents are Iranian, and while I was born and raised in the US, I love Iran, and always have a great time when I visit. It’s nice to hear that you are also enjoying the place. You’ve mentioned that you like mountains in your bio; have you visited any of the mountain resorts in Tehran? or some of the more mountainous areas like Darband, Takhte Jamshid Park, Baame Tehran? If you like markets, the Baazar in Tehran and Esfehan might also interest you. I also liked to visit Saadat Abaad Palace in Tehran. North of Iran (Shomal) is also an interesting place and looks quite different from the rest of the country as it’s green and has a lot of forests. It’s the place most Iranians go for vacation. However, you’d need someone who knows the place to show you where to go. I think your experience will depend a lot on who shows you around. Tehran is a very big city, and has many different sides to it. The person who guides you, shows you the city as they know and see it. I know for me, depending on which cousin I go out with I see different things. Obviously I’m no expert on Iran as I don’t live there but those are just a few suggestions. Hope you continue to enjoy your stay in Iran, and discover interesting things everyday! 🙂
Silvia says
What great tips! We did drive into the mountains in Kurdistan, up into the snow, which was beautiful. I’ll write a post about it in the next few days! And I absolutely agree that our experience depends so much on who we’re with, especially when exploring a huge city with so many different options. Having Rana as a guide was perfect for me!
Behnam says
Well saied mona.
Wilmerdon says
Very few who visit a place as a tourist will have the opportunity to see/exprience a city the way those who go there to work or visit relatives who are natives. Over the years, till 2012, I enjoyed going to Iran – specially Isfahan. I am posting some of my experiences by editing my travel journal/diary. I am not a writer and I dont have beatiful photographs like you see in this article by Sylvia. I say it as it is – with my half baked opinions and offensive bias’
https://medium.com/@wilmerdon/get-the-contract-or-stay-in-iran-13a2e5db6283
J in Beijing says
I am enjoying your posts so much Silvia. I really enjoyed reading about the coffee shops in the last post and I love that the coffee shop here didn’t quite measure up for Rana! What a shame that the water was all gone too..I wonder why they ‘sent to another lake’? Anyway, great photos as always.
Silvia says
Thanks, Joella! It was sort of hilarious listening to Rana scoff at Isfahan’s coffee shops. Total Tehran girl. But yeah, I actually wondered if something got lost in translation regarding the lake water because… is that an actual thing? Sending water back an forth between different parks? If so, it’s insane.
Wilmerdon says
Thanks for the excellent post with such beautiful photographs.
No the water doesn’t get sent back and forth. The water is released depending on the water level in the Dam upstream. Immediately after the rains or at the start of the winter season is the right time to visit.
Mohsen says
I really enjoyed reading your posts about Iran. Regarding the lake thing: It is an artificial lake (Chadegan lake) created behind the main dam on Isfahan’s river (Zayanderood). As Isfahan’s population has increased exponentially and resulted in water shortage, the government prefers to keep the river’s water behind the dam and use it for the water distribution system instead of letting it flow through the city and end in the Gavkhooni swamp. They sometimes open the dam, though, usually in tourism high season. And Isfahan is much more beautiful with the river!
Silvia says
Ahh mystery solved! Thanks, Mohsen, that makes so much more sense! And I can imagine that Isfahan would be even prettier with the river.
cherishka says
Love following your stories in Iran! The best thing about traveling is the people met on the road. Rana sounds like one of those people who you would stay in touch with for years 🙂 If you find yourself in Budapest, feel free to give me a shout!
Silvia says
I absolutely agree, Cherishka 🙂 And I will absolutely give a shout next time I’m in Budapest!
Rana says
This time i just was laughing while i was reading the post! Now i feel so sorry to show u Isfahan as.5% of the world! :))
And i read comments also! About advices of that iranian girl who raised in US, i should remind that we visited Dabarnd! 😀 i suggested Shomal also and Saadat abad is just an area in Tehram, like everywhere! 😀
And tnx to friends who wrote their kindness to me 🙂
But still i feel sorry about Isfahan! And coffee shop’s part was so funny!
Silvia says
I’m still laughing thinking about your reaction to the coffee shop! Maybe Iran is not half of the world, but we still had fun. <3
Rana says
So much <3
Lily says
I think Mona meant “Sa’d Abad Palace”, not “Saadat Abad”.
Wilmerdon says
Sylvia was lucky to have you as companion/guide! (The kind of guides I had… %$@%*&#%)I hope none of ever read this though because they were all my colleagues.
In my opinion, there’s huge difference between how we look at Iran and how most Westerners do. For us it’s the land of sophistication, art, culture, poetry and the land most of the administrators came from during the Mughal empire for 3 centuries. Our 2nd official language (spoken by nearly 300 million people)Urdu originates from Persian & the script is still in Persian. And who can forget the architects? The Cheif Architect of Taj Mahal – Ustad Ahmad Lahauri – was a Persian. Till the 18th century being a Persian is good enough to get an invite to migrate into the Mughal empire.
What about now? Well, the Persians (we call them Farsis) are the richest and most influential single community in India. The Tata group (which bought over Jaguar) is Farsi company. So are many other leading industrial houses. The father of Indian nuclear program Homi Jahangir Bhabha (nuclear physicist) was a Farsi. The first and only Army Field Marshal of India (who won the Bangladesh war for India)Sam Hormusji Jamshedji Manekshaw was a Farsi too.
The father of former prime minister Rajiv Gandhi (of the Gandhi clan who control the Indian National Congress)was a Farsi (mother was Indira the previous Prime Minister).
Talking about Cafes, Indians went to Irani cafes – mainly in Pune & Mumbai cities – for a cup of tea, bun-muska and lots of gossip. But since 2000 these are slowly getting converted to Baristas & other fastfood joints 🙁 You can find the best beryani in Mumbai or Pune only in Irani restaurants.
So, when we arrive in Iran its all that history and influnce of Persia through which we see things 🙂
I have started sharing my experiences in Iran in short, easy to read posts here – https://medium.com/@wilmerdon/get-the-contract-or-stay-in-iran-13a2e5db6283
WARNING: It can be quite boring and offensive!
Catherine says
How strange that they sent the water elsewhere! It sure does look beautiful, though I can understand what you mean about the city as a whole not being that way.
Silvia says
Yeah, I think if Isfahan didn’t have such an impressive reputation I wouldn’t have been disappointed at all by it.
Wilmerdon says
You were late by four centuries. Your fault really 😉
Hooman says
Glad you experienced my home town Tehran first hand. You are an ambassador of truth for the western people 🙂 Thanks for sharing these stories. BTW, I live in Toronto.
Silvia says
Thanks, I enjoyed my time in Iran immensely!
Rachel says
Oh, you took such wonderful photos! I thought similarly about Isfahan – the sites themselves were amazing individually, but as a city it lacked a certain collective charm. Did you visit the Abassi Hotel at all? That was truly spectacular.
I ended up having dinner at a place the Lonely Planet recommended – Shahrzhad – a French guy in my hotel said he enjoyed it, but wasn’t impressed. Your place looks nicer!
Silvia says
Ahh great to hear you had a similar reaction to Isfahan! I didn’t visit the hotel – I feel like I probably missed a lot of the sites. It’s fun to hear about your experiences in Iran, Rachel!
sepehr sotoodegan says
welcome my amazing country <3
Iman says
Hello Silvia. i live in esfahan.im so glad that you liked iran and esfahan.I enjoyed your posts so much Silvia. I really enjoyed your photos about esfahan.i am so happy that you liked esfahan. other time that you want to vistit esfahan jaust let me know i will show placese in esfahan that you have not seen them before and you should see them.
Silvia says
Thanks so much, Iman, I would love to go back to Esfahan someday!
M H Vakil says
Hello Iman
Salam. Nice to meet you. I am from Gujarat India. Recently I visited Mashad, Qum & also to visit Eshafan but due to short time I cant able to come. I am willing to visit Eshafan & I heard from my relatives that Eshafan is very good place to visit with Family. As I am Indian is there any restuarant available there with serving spicy foods. We all Indians eat spicy foods. what about the hotels. what are the tariff of Rooms.
Maryam says
As someone who grow up in Isfahan, I enjoyed reading your post. Although calling Isfahan as half of the world should not be taken literally 🙂 … I must say Isfahan and its surroundings are home to some of the most historic and beautiful sites in Iran.
As I was reading through your blog I was wondering if you had a chance to visit “Abbasi Hotel” and also Isfahan’s Birds and Flowers garden. Abbasi Hotel is one of the must see places in Isfahan. You can stay at the hotel too, though it will cost you more than $15 per night. However, even if you are not staying there, you can still spend a night in its garden and have tea and “Ash e Reshteh”. I have not been living in Isfahan for more than a decade now, but even now, whenever I go back, I have to visit Abbasi Hotel.
Now, as for the problem with the water, it is an unfortunate reality that Isfahan is situated very close to dryer parts of Iran. As the global warming is changing the weather all around the world, Isfahan has not been immune to the weather changes as well.
The River that flows in the middle of Isfahan (“Zayandeh Rud”)is originated from the mountains in the western parts of the country and as the river travels through its path it passes through many cities and is used for farming along the way. Adding to that, as the river used to have a lot of water in the past, some of its water had been diverted to the southern regions along its path. Now that the raining seasons have gotten shorter, by the time the river reaches Isfahan not much water is left in it and so they block the water from flowing in the bank of the river so that it can be used for more necessary functions such as farming and providing the drinking water for the city. Which is sad since now for most of the year the bank of the river in the city is dry and empty. Even so for some short period occasions though out the year like new year when there are a lot of tourists visiting, they let the water fill the river.
Silvia says
Thanks for your tips, Maryam, there were many places I didn’t get to visit in Isfahan, so I think I will have to go back someday! And thank you for explaining about the river – I hadn’t realized the situation was so bad.
Wilmerdon says
As far as the ‘Half the World’ tag goes – I reproduce below my comment here to someone else:
I totally disagree with you! I have not come across any exaggeration at all. In fact, quite the opposite. I had to keep reminding Isfahanis how great their city was (so better treat it with the respect and care it deserves).
Isfahan was known as “Esfahān nesf-e jahān ast” in the 16th century during the Safavid dynasty when it was one of the largest cities in the world and the capital of Persia. If you want to see that splender, you need to go there during the Safavid dynasty. You can’t turn up there 4 centuries late and then say “its not really Half the World”!
Maryam says
It was really interesting to read your comments about Iran. I’m so glad you liked it. Most of the tourists I’ve come across love it here, which makes me happy. As you know, there is a lot of propaganda against our Persia we all love so dearly. We Iranians are proud of our civilization and very tired of all the negative impressions towards us.
Hopefully we’ll be lucky to see you here again sometime soon, and more and more of open-minded and daring people like you to venture out in our dangerous country 😉
Being born in Esfahan, growing up in Canada, and living in Tehran at the moment, I’m so proud to read westerners’ opinions about the country I cherish most. Maybe next time you happen to show up around here, I will have the honour of being your host…or hostess 🙂
Silvia says
It’s so lovely to read how proud you are of Iran, Maryam! I’m sure you would make an excellent hostess for a foreign visitor there 🙂
Maryam says
Thanks, Silvia! Feel free to drop by anytime! Free room, nice view, wifi, separate bathroom + shower, located in a place where you can get around Tehran easily. And we love guests 😉
Happy travelling, wherever you go!
See you around…
Wilmerdon says
Maryam,
1st – the negative impressions you are referring to are political. Have nothing to do with the people or country. The US media is not the final authority on Iran or what the “world” thinks of Iran.
2nd – Any US politician – Conservatives & Liberals will trash Iran PURELY for political reasons (some can’t even locate Iran on the world map).
Sorush says
Firstly I like to admit the fact that you are so brave travelling lonely to a country like Iran with considering the whole unfair reputation that western media is created by imputing government actions to all Iranians. I’m doubtful if you were Norwegian instead of American-Norwegian you would still try that or not. 🙂
Secondly I wish next time you decide to visit Esfahan get informed about sites before traveling or contact a local expert tourist guide/CS member. It seems that companionship of a Tehrani girl without that much impression of visiting Esfahan before knowing you had its effect.(kidding)
Probably you already had read it; “Iran currently ranks 89th in tourist income, but is rated among the ’10 most touristic countries’ in the world”. This is the reason why you see historic sites in danger, there is no money and intention of maintaining them. Western economy prefer Iran as a mono-product economy(oil) not a flourished successful dynamic economy(like what you have in Norway) and Iran government play this roll perfectly since it is inline with their Islamic rules. An earthquake will demolish all what they constructed within this 35 years and they prefer HALAL tourism!
“Zayandehrood” is full of water since a village called “Baghbahadoran” (65km from Esfahan). Right after the whole water pomp to Yazd and Rafsanjan where ex-presidents Rafsanjani and Khatami and their relatives have Industrial and agricultural plants. Basically they made this project from Mr Khatami’s presidency period, till that moment Zayandehrood was full of water, locals can confirm this fact.Last year Esfahany farmers exploded the water tubes and the government has cut-off the tap water in Yazd to fool people, it worked actually! The Lake story is the most absurd thing I have ever heard about Zayandehrood problem. I guess they get confused information about Orumieh Lake that has the same problem and is getting dry day by day.
Since you expressed your interest about Persian cuisine I suggest you tasting “Doogh&Gooshfil”(a snack), “Khoreshtmast”(a dessert) and “Beryoon”(a dish) that are special of Esfahan.
I hope next time you enjoy your trip in Iran and Esfahan much more.
Sorush says
I correct my comment:
An
earthquakeBoobquake! will demolish all what they constructed within this 35 years and they prefer HALAL tourism!Tina says
As an Iranian 15 year old, I’ve had my fair share of visiting the cities in my country (thanks to my parents!!!) and i can say that isfahan is one of my favorite places to visit. The historical sites there are extraordinary and he food quality is really good and i love their accent.They also have a great university campus! Its a shame tht the river got dried up by the government. When i visited isfahan about 4 years ago, i was really shocked and sad. hopefully they’ll re direct the river someday!!!
Silvia says
Haha yeah, Rana loved their accent too! Next time I’ll do a little more research before I go to Isfahan, so that I can see more sites, but I was still impressed by what I saw.
Wilmerdon says
Absolutely, the best food in Iran (I’m talking about streetfood only)!
I will be sharing some of my hilarious experiences. You can read it here. (I am sure I won’t get a visa again, though)
https://medium.com/@wilmerdon/get-the-contract-or-stay-in-iran-13a2e5db6283
Ali says
Hi Silvia
I enjoyed Reading your travel story about Isfahan and seeing your beautiful photographs.You know i always wondered why we Iranians call Isfahan “Half of the world” always thought that this term is too much of exaggeration,was convincing my self that probably because I’m Iranian sights of Isfahan and it’s Architecture is not that breathtaking for me.But now i see that you agree with me and felt a little underwhelmed.you know we Iranians tend to exaggerate about ourselves, our intelligence our history our culture and more,so we call statement about Isfahan.Thanks for sharing your stories about Iran and showing Iran sights with your photographs to the world.we really appreciate.
Ali
Geography Student at the University of Tehran
Silvia says
Haha I think a lot of people like to exaggerate about their countries and cultures – a great sign that they love where they come from! I was a little underwhelmed by Isfahan, but I still loved it.
Wilmerdon says
Hi Ali,
I totally disagree with you! I have not come across any exaggeration at all. In fact, quite the opposite. I had to keep reminding Isfahanis how great their city was (so better treat it with the respect and care it deserves).
Isfahan was known as “Esfahān nesf-e jahān ast” in the 16th century during the Safavid dynasty when it was one of the largest cities in the world and the capital of Persia. If you want to see that splender, you need to go there during the Safavid dynasty. You can’t turn up there 4 centuries late and then say “its not really Half the World”!
I’m sharing my experiences and not encouraging you to read it at all 🙂
https://medium.com/@wilmerdon/get-the-contract-or-stay-in-iran-13a2e5db6283
Ali says
Dear Silvia,
It was great to read and understand your feeling about Isfahan. I’m from Isfahan and wanna say welcome to u and other lovely Americans who choose our country to visit. we hope u enjoyed. please advise others to come to Iran cause we (the people of both countries) really need to have friendship between us while our politicians are struggling! 😉
shahab says
I’m so glad you’re traveling to my country
I hope to be proven true
But you have not travel to Iran (the land of poets and Persian history) Yazd (the largest adobe city in the world), Tabriz (Iran is one of the most beautiful architecture) and pretty much said that Iran did not see the game.
Hope to meet.
shahab
علیرضا says
بهه من انگلیسی بلد نیستم که نامردا از میزبان فقط هاستشو فهمیدم خخخخ
خواستم بگم بچه شمالم با خانواده یا خودت یا با دوستات اومدی خبر بده
یه نون پنیری داریم دور هم میزنیم تو رگ با قلیون :دی
Roholla says
Life is too short. It is good to judge a nation based on the facts, not political issues. If I had enough money and I had been given visas, I would be visiting the countries around the world.
Ali says
Translating علیرضا (Alireza):
Haha guys I don’t know English, all I could understand was the word “host” LOL!
I’d like to say I’m from the North (of Iran), let me know if you came around alone or with family or friends. Together, at least we can have bread-and-cheese with water pipes (or “qalyan”) 😀
(Regarding the bread-and-cheese part, being a simple meal, it’s a way of saying that humbly to a guest in Persian, meaning your visit won’t bother us at all and also used as a deliberate underestimation of the more complicated cuisine you’ll get, in order to be humble and hospitable because whatever they serve you, you are actually worth more.)
علیرضای عزیز برات ترجمه کردم :دی
Ali says
Oh… only that I’m personally against water pipes 🙂
Jabbar says
Hi Sylvia
I am so glad to visit your blog. Actually I first read about you and your trip memories in Iran in an Iranian (Persian) news agency! You have become so famous, because we Iranians love tourism and making trips. Your memories of your trip in Iran made me and my family so much interested in going to see Kurdistan that we have never visited! I wish you come back again in Iran, and I wish Iranian and American people get together again like the past.
Best regard
Alireza says
Hi Silvia, I enjoyed your pictures. Why didn’t you visit Shiraz? It’s perfect. By the way I live in Shiraz.
Amin says
So Nice. As an Iranian I enjoyed reading your travel story.
reza says
I think that you shoud visit Shiraz , Perspolis , Naqsh e Rostam and Pasargad . All of them are around of Shiraz. Hafez the greatest poet of Iran , more than 700 years ago said : we know that Esfahan is half of the world BUT our Shiraz is more better than Esfahan.
fatemeh says
hi..jast esfahan city to iran
ramin says
alhagh ke neshoon dadi irani hasti harfat mesle yek bache mimoone ,manzooram ghesmate akhare jomlate shiraze ma behtare
man nemidoonam mardome ma key mikhan dast az in harfaye maskhare bardran !!!
Cyrus says
The title of “half the world” is something Iranians called Esfahan a few hundred years ago, especially under the Safavid dynasty (1501-1736). The Safavid dynasty ended when it was invaded by Afghans who sacked the city of Esfahan and destroyed much of its cultural and architectural heritage. The city was further destroyed by the general lack of appreciation for history by most of the Iranian public. Out of the more than 40 Safavid palaces in Esfahan, only ONE of them still stands today. The rest were demolished by various Iranian rulers and governments. Most of the old homes or boulevards were also demolished, perhaps even all of them. It’s very difficult to find old houses in Esfahan. It’s quite depressing really. This disaster is not just exclusive to Esfahan though, because most Iranian cities faced major losses to their cultural heritage through the demolishment of their old neighbourhoods and buildings, even Tehran. Tehran is not as “new” as people make it out to be, it’s actually a relatively old city but its old areas and old buildings were all demolished by Reza Shah who thought everything not western was a sign of backwardness.
Wilmerdon says
Agree with you 100%. The Shah tried to remake Iran like Ataturk had done in Turkey. Destroy the old and make everything European!
We know the consequences of that stupidity now!
Alireza Yadegari says
Dear Silvia
What a great travel to Iran!
Mahnaa Institution working for Iranian talents living abroad to come and join to the industries.
The Institute located in Tehran wants to invite you to discover more aspects of the Iranian social and nature
have been hidden form your camera. If you are interested please let me know by replying this email.
Best Wishes,
Alireza Yadegari
International Relations Manager
International Relations Office
No.20, 5th floor,
Arian Tower, Mirdamad Blvd,
Tehran, Iran
1549846164
http://www.mahnaa.com
int@mahnaa.com
Tel: +98 (0) 21222517-8
Fax: +98 (0) 21 22252537
Please consider the environment before printing.
Jabbar says
Dear Silvia
why did you delete my post?
Silvia says
I just looked through my comments page and can’t find your post. I’m not sure what happened – so sorry! I didn’t delete it on purpose.
Jabbar says
Dear Silvia it was a mistake! I found my post it was not deleted! Maybe it was because of the high volume of posts in this page. Anyway, I wish you great luck in you trips and hope to see a book written by you about the memories of your trips around the world.
Best luck
Silvia says
Oh good – I guess we both had trouble finding it. And thanks, what a dream that would be!
Jabbar says
Yeah! But I wish you share with me your dream (writing a book)and send me a copy! lol
By the way I am completely ready to give you a help, of any kind, about Iranian section of your future book.
Thanks
jennifer says
Naqsh-e Jahan Square looks incredible! Actually, everything in this post looks incredible. Excuse me while I go and Google Isfahan to add it to my bucket list…
Donka says
Hi, happy to come across your blog today and get to know you through your stories!:) I’ve lived in Iran for 2 years and am forever in love with its charming side 🙂 and trying to visit often, as I have a family there. Your first impressions reminded me of my first impressions back in time. As of Esfahan, the way to appreciate the city more is to have someone lical to not only show you around but show you around and tell you the stories of the city. Esfahan has magical history around itself, when you hear those fantastic stories about the life of kings, the birth of the bazaar, the silk road… you would watch the city with different eyes I’m sure!:)
Silvia says
How wonderful that you love living in Iran! I really really hope to return to Esfahan someday, and maybe then I can see more of the local perspective. I have heard so many wonderful things about the city since writing this blog post, so it would be nice to see it again. 🙂
Donka says
By the way, you are amazingly brave young lady, to decide to travel Iran- not many people dare:) I am going through the rest of your stories now on other travels and enjoying quiet a lot- thank you for sharing! Nice getting to know you! Otherwise , I live in Macedonia now so if that’s where your path leads you any time in future Id be happy to meet and show you around:)) Till than, bon voyage:) Donka
Silvia says
Thank you, Donka, your comment was so sweet! Though everyone was so kind to me while I was in Iran, I really didn’t have to be very brave to go there, haha. I actually just went to Macedonia a couple of weeks ago! It is such a beautiful country (especially Lake Ohrid) and the people there were so friendly. I hope I can go back again soon!
donka says
Iranian people are generally very warm and welcoming, so yeah, you dont need to be brave to stay there, but just because of the perception from outside and the bad PR that the regime does to the country, I still think you need to be brave to pick Iran as a backpacking destination:-) I went there for the first time with my husband who is Iranian so it was different for me, I doubt if I would have ever simple gone as a tourist:-))) You are one cool lady!:) Glad you liked Ohrid, my favourite spot in mk too;)
Silvia says
Haha thanks! I hope that Iran’s reputation as a tourist destination will improve in the future, as it really is such a wonderful place to visit. As is Macedonia 🙂
roya says
Hi Silvia i really enjoyed about your blog.I live in Isfahan and i love my city but i think it would be great if all the people in across the world knew this city.But i think politics made people to think Iran is not good country.I hope to have more tourists like you in my city and have a known city.sometimes when i say to foreigner people that i am Iranian they answer me: is Iran a village?and it make me angry.Any way thank you for your blog and please return here soon. 😉
Silvia says
I hope more tourists can visit Isfahan soon! And I hope that I can return there soon!
Hamed says
I love my city .. thank you for sharing every good things about my country . you are wonderful <3
Silvia says
Your country is wonderful too!
honey says
hello guys
who wants to come esfahan????
i want to be his/her tour leader
asalasaly1373@yahoo.com
M H Vakil says
HI Honey
I am intersted to visit Eshafan
Darius says
HI dear silvia
i working in shiraz airport and i invite you to Cradle history of persia(shiraz),If you do not see persepolis Not see half of the world’s history(also half of the World lol)
Hope to see you in Shiraz
wish you all the bests wherever you are 🙂
Silvia says
Thanks, Darius! I would love to go to Shiraz someday. Hopefully soon!
Darius says
You’re so lovely And I hope also
Christmas is a special time of year to remember those who are close to our hearts!
Christmas Day with mirth and pleasure, comes again with wondrous pleasure
I Wish in 2015 God gives You…
۱۲ Month of Happiness,
52 Weeks of Fun,
365 Days Success,
8760 Hours Good Health,
52600 Minutes Good Luck,
3153600 Seconds of Joy…and that’s all
**Merry Christmas**
Silvia says
Thank you so much, Darius! Happy New Year!
Niloo says
Good news for you Silvia! The river Zayanderood in Isfahan has water in it now. we are entering New Year and also spring and the city is so beautiful with water in the river.
Hope you the bests…
Silvia says
That is good news!! I’ll have to return someday to see it 🙂
Dr Omit says
Hi ..when will you come to iran again ??
Silvia says
I have no idea, but hopefully soon!
Iman says
Hey Sylvia,
Great to read your blog. I’m actually from Esfahan but living the US now. We have a photo exhibition at Purdue University, Indiana on #IranBeyondPolitics. Was wondering if you’d give us permission to use some of your images with citation of your blog. Look us up on twitter or fb #IranBeyondPolitics
Charlie Beatty says
Stunning pictures! You are influencing my wanderlust for Iran more and more with every post I read!
Silvia says
You should goooo!
Darius says
If one day, you journey away
Leave my side without a say
I’ll be captivated by dreams
And once again, I’ll be all alone
I’ll tell the night to stay by my side
I’ll tell the wind to sing till dawn
To sing of the clime* of a lover…
Why do you go and leave me alone?
Should you forget me
And leave my arms
A bird of the sea, I’ll become
To the claps of waves, I’ll succumb
To heart, keep silent, I’ll say
I’ll go, so all will know
I’m going towards the clime…
Where, in it, you won’t leave me alone
If one day your name
Should sound in my ears
And yet again sorrow for you should come
To take a hold on me…
I’ll tell my heart to leave it be
And let its ache become a part of me
Enter into my soul
So once again, I sing for you
So once again, I sing for you
Should you still desire
For us to be lovers
Like the old days, sit together and part at dawn
Your heart should taken on some color
It should again take on a melody
It should take on the color of that clime
Where, in it, you would not leave me alone
If you wish to stay with me
Then come for what remains of our youth
As long as there is skin on our bones
Don’t let my heart be all alone
Let my night taken on some color
Once again, let it take on a melody
Let it take on the color of that clime
Where, in it, you would not leave me alone
If one day your name
Should sound in my ears
And yet again sorrow for you should come
To take a hold on me…
I’ll tell my heart to leave it be
And let its ache become a part of me
Enter into my soul
So once again, I sing for you
So once again, I sing for you
If one day your name once more
Should sound in my ear
And yet again sorrow for you should come
To take a hold on me…
I’ll tell my heart to leave it be
And let its ache stir inside me
Enter into my soul
So once again, I sing for you
Faramarz Aslani
Age Ye Rooz (If One Day)
Album: Age Ye Rooz-1977
Nadali says
Hi Dear Silvia. Thank you for choosing iran to visit. I am a tourism PhD student in Iran and am conducting a study about tourism in Isfahan. Please help me with responding to my questionair. it is for my thesis and must be responded by tourists who visited Isfahan in recent years. please give me your email to send you questionaire. Thank you in advance. i’m waiting for your respond.
Your Sincerely
Nadali
katie says
Hi!! I am travelling to Iran next month and still figuring out how to get from shiraz to isfahan. can anyone help me. Its going to be a 6 to 7 hr journey though I am not that sure if I can find a bus from shiraz to isfahan. Thanks!!
Darus says
Hi dear Katie,i working in shiraz international airport and Im so sad why I see your request late,i will be so happy if u mail me and and I help u for your next journey….
ali says
Hi girl
how are you
im so excited that you think my city is so cool…..
ali says
If you want translator send a mail that i introduce to you a good and cheep transformator
Ross says
Cool article. I’m heading there in a month so this will definitely come in handy. Those mosques look cool
Mina says
Hi Silvia…well, I guess it’s been more than two years you have been in Iran and I just accidentally found your blog…being and Iranian and especially an Isfahanian, I’m so glad you enjoyed being in Isfahan.
hope to see you in Isfahan again. if you needed any help regarded to that count on me.
Misha says
Thanks for sharing informative blog. I am planning a trip to Iran. I would love to visit some other places in India. I like photo gallery very much.
Waterloocars says
So glad I found you on twitter and discovered your blog. your articles are great
I have handed my notice in at work, rented out my flat and will be off on an adventure around the world at the end of August! So excited to go traveling. Will be blogging about it too.
Tatiana says
Hi Silvia! Great post. I just travelled solo to Iran as well, and got some great tips from your blog! It definitely gave me confidence knowing that another solo female traveller from the US has done it. Cheers!
jam says
hi! i read your article.i purpose visiting iran azerbyjan KALEYBAR city in your future visit.very nice nature and ecology
shahab says
Cool article. I’m heading there in a month so this will definitely come in handy. Those mosques look cool
Silvia says
Have a great trip!
تالار says
Realy good article about Iran thanks
vahid says
hey Silvia, Thank you for sharing your experiences. You said you were a full-time nomad, did you visited Iranian Nomads during your travel to Iran?
تالار پذیرایی says
This Article About Great Country . Thanks For Sharing This.
MEL says
I DIDNT LIKE ISFAHAN AT ALL – I HEARD ITS AMAZING , AND TO ME IT WAS REALLY MEHHHH… BORING EVEN? I WAS REALLY CONFUSED
travel says
thank you that’s great
ali says
Hope you have a great travel to isfahan
did you visit mollabashi historical house in Isfahan ?
Mr. trip says
iranian culture is very rich and you must travel iran and visit cities to see the beauties!
Ata Ghasemi says
travel Tabriz the most beautiful city of Iran!
Peachy Essay says
Thanks for the fantastic pictures. I also was in Isfahan. Visited this amazing city in May 2016. Definitely one of my favourite. Great historical places and an AMAZING food. Biryani is my favourite. But they do amazing rice with saffron too.
online video downloader says
I have gained a lot of useful knowledge when reading your article, thanks
خرید گیفت کارت گوگل پلی says
Wonderful information! I was just wondering if you could provide me with a date (the year it was published) for this page so I can correctly reference it.
Thank you
elvee says
growing up in india while some of my ancestry trace to this city. i feel very connected to this city. thank you for sharing.