After seriously exhausting my eating and dancing abilities during Nowruz celebrations with Mina and her family in Tehran, I was excited to get back on the road and explore more of Iran. Luckily for me, our trip to Isfahan seemed to have given Mina a bit of the travel bug as well, and she was eager to join me on another adventure.
But in a country of such an abundance of historical sites and diverse landscapes, how were we to choose where to go? Should we head out into the desert, see the ruins of Persepolis, or visit the historical village Abyaneh?
I was at a bit of a loss, but Mina knew exactly where we were going. After making a few phone calls and coming up with an acceptable story to tell her family, she announced that we were going to visit her boyfriend Azad and his friends in Marivan, a small Kurdish city bordering Iraq, and that we could stay in the empty home of a friend’s brother, as he was away on holiday. Perfect.
You guys, it was sooo so perfect! Kurdistan is incredible.
We spent our first day exploring Marivan, Lake Zarivar, and driving a little through the surrounding green hills. 
Nowruz was a particularly nice time to be visiting Marivan, as everyone was in festive spirits. We passed countless families picnicking and dancing together in the sun.
Okay, maybe some people minded. 
Of course Mina and I had to ask Azad’s friend Sangar to drive us to the Iraqi border, seeing as we were so close to a country that had had such a firm presence in both of our countries’ politics while we grew up. Together we peered across into Iraq, a country this American girl and Iranian girl had both been taught to fear: just green hills and trees.
The next morning over breakfast Sangar told us that we were going on a road trip up into the mountains over to Ouraman Takht. I was immediately excited, but I had no idea quite how much wonder and awe Kurdistan would have in store for me that day.
Driving through the mountains with Mina, Azad, and Sangar will probably always be one of my top travel memories. Sharing embarrassing stories, arguing about Heidegger (Azad is NOT a fan), and listening to Leonard Cohen and Edith Piaf, I easily forgot that we came from different backgrounds. It was like being back with my friends at university.
Except while many of the discussions and debates I had with fellow students at Williams seemed to be at least as much about showing off our intelligence as any genuine interest in what we were talking about, Mina, Sangar, and Azad’s passion was obvious.
Most of our talks would came back to Iran and my friends’ hopes and fears for their country. For them, Hegel and Zizek weren’t just impressive names to drop but potential sources of answers for their future. Their passion for philosophy, literature, music, and poetry was inspiring, but also one I sensed that I, coming from a position of stability and privilege, couldn’t quite grasp.
Visiting Kurdistan was such a special experience, and a destination I’d highly recommend to other tourists! The locals were friendly, the landscape beautiful, and the culture distinctly unique from what else I experienced in Iran.
The overnight bus from Tehran cost 330,000 Rial ($11) and took about 12 hours.
There is a hotel in Marivan, but as with the rest of Iran, I’d recommend staying with a local! I know there is at least one Couchsurfing host in town.
I traveled to Iran independently on my Norwegian passport. Some nationalities (including the US and UK at the time of writing) can only visit as part of a tour. And of course I know some people prefer to travel on organized tours anyway.
My top tour recommendation for Iran would be the Discover Persia 14-day G Adventures tour, which I’ve heard nothing but good things about (the itinerary looks amazing!). Check here for the latest Discover Persia tour prices and itinerary
What to pack as a female traveler in Iran
You do have to dress conservatively as a woman in Iran, but you can still wear colorful, pretty clothes! Just make sure that your tops and/or jackets that you wear outside hit around your mid-thigh and aren’t low cut. And a normal scarf will work fine for covering your head – use a lightweight one in the summer and heavier scarf in the winter (and if, like me, you struggle with keeping it on your head, use bobby pins!).
Here are some of my favorite appropriate things to wear in Iran:
Jeanna says
Could Mina and her boyfriend BE any more adorable? I love hearing your stories! Since you’re having such a great time in Iran, maybe you can just come back to Chiang Mai afterwards. 🙂
Silvia says
Haha perfect logic (but seriously, don’t tempt me). And no, no more adorableness possible. I’m in love with their love.
Vi says
Love your blog! So fantastic to see you and your friends going through parts of the world not many are willing to venture. Great photos to boot. What camera is that?
Silvia says
Thanks, Vi! I have a Canon Rebel T3 and usually just use the 18-55mm lens that came with it, though sometimes I also use a 50mm 1.8.
Reehana says
Hi Silvia
I am so excited reading through your blog. My name is Reehana and I am planning to visit Iran next month. I wish to be able to visit as many places during my 15 days of stay there. I studied about the country in one of my international business courses and fell in love with it. I am planning to visit Marivan to see the much talked Zarivar Lake and meet some friends in Sanandaj and Marivan. Looking forward to my trip immensly!!!!
Reza Shayestehpour says
lovely as always! 🙂 if you’re going to visit Iran again, I strongly recommend you come to Khoozestan, a southern province with warm and hospitable people… thousands of sights to see and places to go… don’t forget the Persian gulf… 🙂
Silvia says
Thanks for the tip! There are so many places I still would love to see in Iran, so I think I will definitely have to go back someday.
J in Beijing says
Gorgeous photos- you are really teasing me with those big, blue skies right now! I love that you went to the Iraq border and saw the terrifying sight of trees 🙂
Silvia says
There was one beautiful clear day when I was in Beijing last year and it was crazy how it transformed the city. I think it’s not quite as lucky as Kurdistan as far as clear skies go, ha. And yeah, Mina was feeling nervous going to the border and then it was so pretty and peaceful!
mina says
Hey!
I wish i could tell what i feel of reading post and watching pictures! thank u so much for all ur kindness Silvia. AMAZING is the only word that i can say!
my friends and I also were so happy to host u and seeing u every moment u looked happy! 🙂
im so glad to take u to Kurdistan and u liked it! yea for me also it was a BIG chance to join U in adventures! YAYYYY…
TNX A LOT AGAIN Xxxx
Silvia says
Haha thanks, Rana!! I was sooo happy in Kurdistan – ahh I wish I could be back there with you and your friends right now, sigh.
Rana says
Me too… (SIGH)
Mehran mahabadi says
Hi Silvia,
You are lucky to visite my native country which is forbidden to me to visit since 1980.
I hope you can visit Southern Kurdistan (so called Iraki Kurdistan) , especially Erbil(Hewler in kurdish) which is thoughts to be the first city in the whole world with his 8000 years old citadels.
I hope you enjoy your trip and please dont forget to visit Amedi in south and Amed in the north of Kurdistan(So called Tukish Kurdistan) as well, if you have time and a littel money!
Good luck.
Mehran.
Silvia says
Yeah I do feel lucky to be able to visit Iran so easily with my Norwegian passport. I would love to visit more of Kurdistan someday. Thank you for the tips!
Hajir says
Hi Silvia,
I was born in Kurdistan, but now I live in Australia. My parents are still happily living there. I had a cup of coffee in my hand when I bumped into your blog and then forgot drinking it as I was reading through all your posts about Iran. They are so good and and so real!
Wish you all the best in your future adventures. World needs more people like you, then It will be a much better place to live.
Silvia says
Thank you so much, Hajir, for such a sweet comment! I’m glad you enjoyed the posts.
Allison says
Hi Silvia, I am really enjoying reading your blog and looking at your fantastic photos. I am going to Iran in about 4 weeks with my husband and 2 children who are 10 and 7 and we are very excited but a little nervous. Although we are from Australia we have been living in Vanuatu for the past 12 months and I think the contrast between Vanuatu and Iran will be huge! I really liked your positive comments on Tehran and the photos were great. I have also been considering visiting the Kurdistan area and you have now almost convinced me! I also hope we get a chance to couchsurf as well if anybody is crazy enough to accommodate 4 of us! Enjoy the rest of your trip and I will keep an eye out for your next post.
Saeid says
Hi Allison .It is great you are heading Iran in the best month .There is nothing to worry .I understand your feeling when I Immigrated 2 Years ago to Australia I had same feeling as yous .I was born in Tehran but I personally suggest Isfahan and specially Yazd .
Walking in the Yazd is walking in the history it is like 1001 nights story .I wish a great travel for you .
Allison says
Thanks Saeld. Isfahan and Yazd are definitely on my list of places to visit. I also hope you are enjoying life in Australia.
Silvia says
Wow Allison, it sounds like you are giving your kids quite an exciting upbringing! I can imagine people in Iran being pretty excited to host a family with children. I absolutely loved Kurdistan, though I think there are so many great places to visit in Iran, it’s probably hard to go wrong. I really wish that I had made it to Yazd. Someday! Good luck with your travels and enjoy (I’m sure you will)!
mehnoosh says
hi Allison.first of all welcome to iran.i live in Isfahan.i would be glad to help u and guide u.this is my mail:me_ha_65@yahoo.com
Allison says
Thanks Mehnoosh.
Milad says
Allison@ Hi, Great to hear you are planning to visit Iran. Just let us know if you need any help in Tehran( As we are living in Tehran ). Me & my wife would be more than happy to host you.
Silvia@ Hi Silvia, enjoyed your posts regarding Iran adventure you recently had ( mostly the part regarding Marivan as I am Kurdish myself.Hope you come back soon but this time with other fiends of yours, those who love to experience what you already had experienced. the greatness of a country called Iran and a nation called Iranians.
Milad says
Allison@ My Id: saco1392@gmail.com
Azad Rostami says
This is my town / Marivan 🙂 If you are still there I can be of assistance. I can give you a number if you want. You may see my family and see much more there 🙂 I left the city for fifteen years ago and lives in Norway now. I am very happy that other people enjoy this paradise especially Zarivar which is a big part of my past 🙂 send me a message on fb: Azad Rostami.
enjoy yourselves:)
Silvia says
Thanks so much for your offer, though I’m actually in Georgia now. I enjoyed Marivan immensely – definitely a paradise. I hope you are enjoying living in Norway!
Shahram says
You have visited the very beating heart of Kurdistan, Hawramanat.
لیلی Lily says
Hi Silvia,
I wrote my name both in Farsi and in English. The pronunciation in Farsi is a bit different, so I always introduce myself “Lily” for convenience.
Thanks a lot for sharing your stories and pictures of my beautiful country. I was born and raised in Tehran. I have seen Isfahan 2 times, but it’s a pity I have never been to Kurdistan.
I also wanted to thank Mina for hosting you. I really am proud of her as an educated woman from my country.
Nice to meet you both! And thank you again!
Silvia says
Mina really was the perfect host – both light-hearted and fun, while also constantly teaching me things about Iran. Kurdistan really blew me away – I hope you can make it there someday!
Mina says
Thank u so much لیلی its so kind of u 🙂
nice to meet u too. maybe we can keep in touch as friends in Tehran.
Taha says
It was lovely story , iam grateful you enjoyed in kurdish region , I am iranian Kurd and living in uk since 2001, my family still live in iran if any of you need help don not hesitate to contact me on my email or my Facebook ,
Taha Haidari
Silvia says
Thanks, Taha, that’s so kind of you! I instantly fell in love with Kurdistan, and hope to make it back there again someday.
Katie says
I stumbled upon your post at another blog and just wanted to say thanks for opening up my eyes to Iran. Great photos, and not what I would have pictured at all. I especially loved your trip to the border!
Robab says
Welcome to Iran, we’ll be happy to say you welcome in my hometown Tabriz!
Robab says
Welcome to Iran,We’ll be happy to say you welcome in my hometown Tabriz
sahr says
<3 thanks for your nice photos
and welcome to Iran :X
<3
Catherine says
It sure looks beautiful. Love the combination of snow and sunshine. Sounds like you had some lovely companions for the trip too 🙂
ali says
hi
how are you
i can speak and write english a few. because i am student of english language instute.glad to meet your page.welcome to iran. i am born and risisng in iran. i am very happy to see you in iran and host you .and show you tabriz and other very pretty places
bijan says
Thank you for introducing me to a Kurdish Kurdistan and I’m proud of you and I wish you all the best
bijan says
If you email me your address on facebook
Meisam says
Happy to hear that you had a trip to my country Iran and that you liked it that much.
I’ve noticed that all tourists say that after their trip to Iran, whole their attitude changed and they are not frightened of Iran any more! I think it’s a pity and western people envisage Iran as a dangerous place to visit.
Shahram says
Dear Silvia,
As an Iranian, I’m glad you enjoyed traveling to Iran.
Just wanted to suggest you to read a book written by Mr. Terence Ward : Searching for Hassan which may be interesting for you.
Best wishes
Shahram
Tanyer says
Welcome to IRAN.
I admire your courage!
Would you accept a company??
I am writing you from Los Angeles, but I am Turkman, and I would love to travel in IRAN, TURKEY and NearEast Countries to learn more about my ancestors.
I was born in Iran, and raised in Turkey, I guess a translator would not hurt…
It is a long shot for me to become your travel buddy, but I would like to invite you to my hometown, Gorgan.
I will take you to some Turkman wedding, where real fun take place.
I also can host you in Istanbul, where I have other family members.
I used to travel a lot, and your courage gave me inspiration to do it over again!
Thank you!!
hami says
i wish you could have a(safar-trip) to our beutifull little town.next time (ishalla)
mehdi says
I love you baby
Abe Seddighi says
hey Silvia,
I really appreciate that you enjoyed travelling Kurdistan with its native and fresh nature. It`s nice of you that found kurdish people friendly and sweatheart. I love my lovely people
Mehrzad says
Hi Silvia
Thank you for your interest in Iran. Hope to see you again in Iran. I invite you to travell to Shiraz (a nice city in Iran) at next spring.
Rachel says
Oh my goodness! So beautiful, what a backdrop! That must have been such in interesting trip, with great companions.
Silvia says
It was definitely one of those experiences that I could tell would stick with me forever as it was happening. You’ll for sure have to add Kurdistan to your Iran itinerary 😉
Saba says
Heey Silvia! Nice to meet you! Fist of all i want to congrats u for such an awesome blog with incredible design and great name too 🙂 I’m 18 and just finished high school! I’m going to make an Iran tour and was searchin’ abt travel guides that i’m finally here! THANK YOU SO MUCH cuz u gave me a great Inspiration Sweetie <3 Enjoy Xx
Silvia says
Aww thanks for your sweet comment! You’re going to have SUCH a good time in Iran 🙂
Stella says
Hey Silvia,
I am going to Iran in two weeks and currently browsing places to visit there.
Did you need to apply a separate visa to enter Kurdistan coming from Iran, how difficult was it? Though I guess now is note the best time to go anywhere close to this region…
Travel safe!
Silvia says
No, I didn’t need any special visa, I just got on the bus from Tehran! I’m not sure what the situation is like now though. Have fun!
César says
Hi
I´m looking for a kurdish local guide for next autumn.
More info in this post:
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/middle-east/iran/iranian-kurdishtan-need-a-guide-with-reasonable-price
Rakesh says
Hi Silvia,
It’s awesome to read your blog on Iran. I have been planning to visit Kyrgystan > Tajikistan in late 2017/18. But, after coming across your blog, I feel (and, I am sure) I need to add Iran and Kurdistan as well.
It will be of great help to me (and other backpackers as well) if you don’t mind to throw some light on an average daily expenses (fooding +lodging+ transport + sight-seeing) so that I can make my budget plans.
Best Wishes from India 🙂
Silvia says
I budgeted 20 euros/day in Iran but ended up only spending around 5. I think it depends if you plan to stay at hotels or not, so if you’ll be at hotels you can budget a bit more, depending on how much they cost. Good luck and have fun!
Samaneh says
hi dear Silvia
i read it and it was amazing. I’m really happy you enjoyed to travel Iran 🙂