If you’ve ever even considered planning a trip to Montenegro, then the Bay of Kotor was probably at the top of your list of things to see. Because this:
The Bay of Kotor is often referred to as Europe’s southernmost fjord (though technically it’s a ria? thanks Wikipedia) and let me just tell you now that it totally deserves all the hype. And there is a lot of hype.
While a decade ago my sister was trying to dissuade me from visiting Montenegro because it might still be dangerous – the Balkans didn’t find peace all that long ago – now it seems clear that Montenegro has finally nabbed a much deserved spot on the tourist track. I mean, mountains, turquoise lakes, winding rivers, and stunning fjords “fjords,” – what’s not for a tourist to love?
Well in my case, Kotor.
Anyone who’s visited this old Mediterranean port city will probably roll their eyes in exasperation at this, but after spending half an hour in Kotor I knew it wasn’t for me. Dan and I were there at the end of May, but tourists had already filled the luxurious seaside cafés that certainly didn’t offer anything for our tiny $20/day budget.
After four months on the road we were more interested in relaxing by the sea than exploring Kotor’s historic sites and nightlife, so we moved on.
Where to Stay on the Bay of Kotor
In fact, we moved on to the single best place we stayed on our entire five-month journey: the tiny bay village of Lepetane.
Or more specifically, Apartments Okuka in Lepetane. If you ever go to Montenegro, you NEED to stay here.
The crazy part? We each only paid 10 euros/night for this magical little apartment on the Bay of Kotor. We would have spent considerably more just to stay in a 10-bed dorm in Kotor.
We were an easy 5-10 minute bus ride away from Kotor, but happily spent all our time in the little village instead. Seriously, if you are looking for a quiet, less touristy place to stay on the Bay of Kotor, I could not recommend staying in Lepetane more.
Click here for current rates and more details about Apartments Okuka
The houses were far more charming than the brand new buildings in nearby Tivat (where all the super duper fancy yachts dock), there were several beaches nearby to go swimming at, and the ferry across the bay is free for foot passengers – both perfect for enjoying beautiful views of the bay and an easy way to reach the nearest supermarket.
I’m literally sighing out loud just writing about it – oh how I want to go back to those blissful days we spent in Lepetane, swimming in the Bay of Kotor, eating homemade meals (our apartment had a kitchen!) on our balcony, and lying in bed watching boats sail across the bay.
If I hadn’t been so excited about seeing Kosovo I think we simply might never have left Lepetane (except that I did happen to check the apartment’s availability and it was pretty much booked through the rest of the summer!).
^^ Our apartment is the one with the black garbage bags on the roof. Why, you ask? Um…
Well, Lepetane wasn’t actually our first stop on the Bay of Kotor. We first spent a night at Hostel Anton in Tivat, which we thought would be the perfect quiet escape from Kotor. We had intended to stay two nights, even when the hostel manager told us that a large group on a “7 countries in 7 days tour” would be arriving the next day. But when Dan found a bedbug crawling up the wall next to his bed he couldn’t get any sleep, so we checked out a day early.
And everyone knows that the best way to get rid of bedbugs is to put all your clothes in a black plastic bag on a hot hot roof. At least it worked for us in Kazakhstan. And again in Montenegro! Phew.
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Rachel says
Oh goodness this looks so perfect! What a gorgeous place to hang out for a while, I’m pretty sure I’d be daydreaming about it too!
That’s a great tip about bedbugs, guess it needs to be a hot country though, not so handy in Northern Europe in winter.
The prettiest seaside place I’ve stayed? Could possibly be where I’m writing this from right now: I’m parked up in our van overlooking a serene bay on the Shetland Isles (I’m just across the sea from Norway, Bergan is the nearest place from here! *waves*) There are cute colourful boats and the sun has begun to colour the sky, seals are peeping out from the water at us!
Silvia says
Oh wow, Shetland Isles? That sounds pretty magical (and I’m waving back!!) I would looove to go. And yes, as far as bedbugs go, both times I did the plastic bag on a roof trick were on incredibly hot sunny days, so I probably won’t be using this method in Norway. Though hopeful I’ll never have to!
Kelly says
This looks SO magical! I can’t believe you got a room with THAT view for so cheap. What a gorgeous place!
Silvia says
Right? I still can’t believe the room was such a bargain – it really did make me just want to move in for good!
Eric says
I went to Kotor about a week or so after you and loved it but I get the tourist thing. They left around 2 or 3pm each day and we enjoyed the Old Town in quiet. We found super cheap and delicious cafes inside the Old Town (Montenegro is so cheap in general) BUT… after seeing this I just may have to check out Lepetane in September when I’m back in the area!
https://instagram.com/p/3t9zDtvcuX/
Silvia says
Oooh I guess we just had the timing off when we were in Kotor! I was really surprised that it was so crowded already in May. I’ll have to give it a chance next time (if I can drag myself away from Lepetane)!
The Guy Who Flies says
€10 / night for those eye wateringly breath-taking views!? Absolutely amazing.
The place looks like a real paradise and you’ve demonstrated what can be found when you move away from the busy tourist spots. I’ll have to think about adding this place to my wish list because I know I could really relax here.
As for bed bugs. Yes I stayed in a hotel room once with bed bugs (just the once in all my hotel stays over the years is pretty impressive). My solution was a little bit more straight forward though, I just asked to move to a different room which fixed the problem.
I will remember that bag on the roof trick though, you never know when I might need it.
Silvia says
Haha I think our decision to switch hostels may have had something to do with the “7 countries in 7 days” tour that was about to arrive, not just the bed bugs. Seriously, I know the Balkans is a small region, but how is that even possible??
You should definitely check out Lepetane though – it’s such a perfect escape from the tourists, while still having those tourist-worthy gorgeous views. I want to go back!
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
Your photos of Lepetane are truly stunning, Silvia, I think this is a place where I could spend quite some time. I cannot believe that you paid only 10 Euros per night and person for this lovely little appartment. I think I could have stayed there for a long time. Apparently moving out of your hostel room in Tivat into this lovely place was a great exchange especially after Dan having bedbugs. Fortunately I never had any, but when travelling through Vietnam a female from New Zealand we travelled with had bedbugs in her hotel room in Hanoi and it was the most lovely hotel we stayed at in whole Vietnam! My boyfriend and I were really lucky since we got a free upgrade in one of their best, nicest and most expensive rooms. I can’t still can’t imagine that the cheaper rooms were shitty as I would always stay there again. I hope, it was just bad luck in her case. The best seaside where I stayed at least in the last few years was Halong Bay where I have been twice in 2009 and in 2014. I know that’s not really seaside and it’s very stereotype, but especially my first visit was truly amazing.
Silvia says
My grandmother and I were just talking about Halong Bay last night and how beautiful it is! It’s also one of my top seaside experiences 🙂 And as far as bedbugs go, it sounds like you guys were lucky!
Naomi says
I just can’t get over how little you’ve paid. That’s pretty insane! Such a gorgeous view too from that room. Thanks for sharing all these stunning photos
Silvia says
We were SO lucky getting that room 🙂
Emma says
Wow this place looks stunning, this sounds like such a magical experience/visit. What a bargain too!
Silvia says
Magical is the perfect word for it!
Amy M says
It looks beautiful! I love it when places surprise you and the apartment you stayed in had a lovely view! Can’t believe it was only ten euros a night! xo
Silvia says
Those sorts of pleasant surprises are my favorite, especially after bed bugs 🙂
Julie says
I have been itching to tour the Balkans and I swear I will make it there soon. Montenegro is at the top of my list before it gets too touristy and get overrun by other Europeans heading there as well. I am keeping Lepetane in my notes because frankly, it looks incredible!
Silvia says
Lepetane really is just perfect!
Leah says
Yup! Will be going here 🙂 I need a place that is quiet and off the standard tourist trail. This will do nicely.
Silvia says
It really will! 🙂
Jenna says
We also employed the black-bag-on-a-hot-roof method to rid ourselves of bed bugs in Morocco. I thought we had made it up ourselves, haha! Sometimes the simplest solution is the best.
Silvia says
Ahh glad it worked for you too!
Camille says
I’d never heard of that bedbug-ridding technique – ingenious! Wow, could you have found a dreamier spot? It’s not really off-the-beaten-path, but I went to Santorini off-season and I stayed in a lovely quiet little flat carved in the cliffs overlooking the caldera – pretty magical too!
Silvia says
Oh that does sound magical – I stayed in a horrible hostel in Santorini and wish I had splurged for a nicer place!
Sasa says
Kotor great place for a vacation sure to visit the old city walls and fortress.
Dani says
I’ve now read more of your blogs and see you are more the nomadic type traveller and see you do have a very small daily budget of $20. I now see why you dislike places that many others love and prefer those that are less popular and off the beaten path.
I was having trouble comprehending how you could like Kosovo and dislike places like Kotor & Split, but everyone has a lifestyle and type of travel they prefer. Wishing you safe and happy travels
Silvia says
Haha you’re right, I’m definitely a bigger fan of the more quirky cities than just beautiful ones. Maybe because I’m living in Norway, which is full of beautiful places, when I travel I’m drawn a bit more to places that are rougher around the edges. And luckily those places are often more budget friendly as well, though to be honest I think I would love Pristina even if it had the same prices as Norway! It is always interesting to see how people’s tastes differ with their travels. Anyway, thanks for reading along!
Aly T says
Going to remember that garbage bag trick… When I found that my hostel in Venice, Italy was infested with bedbugs, I spent soo many hours and Euros at the laundromat!
I’m planning a trip to Montenegro and Croatia and will definitely seek out Lepetane! Thank you for the tips, your photos are stunning!
Silvia says
Lepetane is amazing, you will love it!
Brooke says
When in Kotor go just south of the Old Town and you MUST eat at a little place called Relax. Some of the BEST BEST food ever. We hardly ever have breakfast out when we travel, but we couldn’t miss it! I don’t think we’ll ever go to Kotor again (it wasn’t our gig) but if we could teleport that restaurant…. seriously.
Diana says
Really a paradise!!!!Looking forward to visit this location.Images are stunning,great environment.
Clazz says
Aww this place looks AMAZING. Montenegro has been on my list for so long, I’m going to have to check this town out! Especially now that Kotor is more touristy than it probably was when you went, it would be lovely to check out somewhere a bit quieter!
Melanie says
Thanks for the interesting blog entry! Just a small update from September 2019: There are four car ferries connecting Lepetane to the other side, which actually means you constantly have 1-2 ferries and their noise plus all the cars right in front of your balcony. The views are quite nice but unfortunately it is far from quiet nowadays…
Silvia says
Ahh that’s such a shame!
Guy says
It looks so beautiful, thanks for sharing your pictures. I can’t wait to visit.
Corrine says
Am planning a few days at Kotor in an upcoming trip and this was a big help, will definitely look at Lepetane! Could you name some of the beaches you went to in the area? Am struggling to find places for swimming…
Corrine says
Am planning a few days at Kotor in an upcoming trip and this was a big help, will definitely look at Lepetane! Could you name some of the beaches you went to in the area? Am struggling to find places for swimming…
Tivat Airport Taxi says
As Montenegrian, I am always happy to read such a well-written post about my country. I am happy that you had nice experience in Montenegro. You should visit on the winter too, and check our ski resorts also.