I’ve already discussed how Albania basically has the prettiest, most budget-friendly beaches in Europe.
I’ve talked about the crazy roads and stunning views.
I’ve raved about Albania’s capital city, the amazing food, and the oh so friendly people I met there.
So I guess all that’s left now is that one burning question on all of our minds: what about the bunkers?
While camping in Montenegro, Dan and I were offered some hot schnapps by an elderly Finnish couple. They enthusiastically told us about their travels through the Balkans in their camper van, but when they mentioned their time in Albania their smiles faded.
“We didn’t like it,” they confessed. “We always felt a sense of danger while in Albania.”
I leaned forward in anticipation of their thrilling/horrifying tale from Albania, but none came. Nothing bad had actually happened to them while in Albania, they just felt that it could have.
While I was tempted to roll my eyes, I realized that their concern made sense. At least, it makes sense that they would be wary of a country that has been closed to foreigners for most of their lifetimes. Whereas my generation’s strongest reference to Albania would be Taken, and I’m pretty sure the main lesson of the film was to not share a taxi with a handsome stranger when visiting Paris. Or if you must, just go to his place.
I felt perfectly comfortable in Albania both times I visited. In fact, instead of danger I was only overwhelmed by hospitality while visiting what would likely be considered one of Albania’s most dangerous village for tourists.
That’s not to say that Albania isn’t dangerous. I did in fact sense some real danger there – for the teddy bears.
I eventually did learn that these are meant to ward away the “evil eye,” but I’m sure any fellow stuffed animal lovers out there can well imagine my dismay when I first started spotting these bears hanging off edges of buildings tied up by their throats.
But while Albania is a safe and welcome place for tourists now, that wasn’t the case just a couple of decades ago.
While chatting with me in Himara, my guest house owner mentioned that his 18-year-old daughter is on a student exchange in America at the moment.
My middle school math coach would be horrified to see how rusty my mental math skills have become, but I do know that I’m 27 and was born in 1988, which means that someone who is 28 would have been born in 1987, and so someone 10 years younger would have been born in 1997.
“Your daughter was born in 1997?”
His wife laughed and patted her imaginary pregnant stomach and then made two guns with her hands, “Pow pow!” while her husband shook his head and told me that they were able to get to Greece for the birth.
Because 1997 was the year that all hell broke loose in Albania.
After a government supported Ponzi scheme devastated households throughout the nation, violent protests broke out and the police and Republican guard deserted, leaving their armories open to be raided by gangs and local militias. And then the president and prime minister both resigned, leaving the country in chaos until the Socialist Party finally gained control and stabilized the government.
But this all happened after the communists lost power (1992), and they were the ones responsible for the bunkers – all 700,000 of them (that’s one for every four citizens).
Opposed to more moderate communist governments, the regime set up the bunkers to prepare the nation for possible attacks, where civilians would take up arms to defend Albania.
These bunkers are everywhere – from city parks to remote mountain passes to beaches to hotel lawns. In fact, the bunkers average an impressive 24 per square kilometer in Albania.
And as I imagine bunkers are fairly difficult to destroy because they’re, well, bunkers, it looks like they just might be here to stay as a continued reminder of Albania’s tumultuous past. As well as, apparently, a romantic hideaway for young couples looking for some privacy.
Um, at least the room comes with a view!
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Rachel says
700,000 oh my goodness, that’s extraordinary! I’m trying hard to imagine what the UK would look like if there was a bunker for ever 4 people spread across the landscape, that’s crazy! Can you imagine!
Silvia says
Right? So crazy to think about!
Ola says
I think many people are biased about traveling to Albania, before I read your post about the beautiful beaches there I also never considered to go there as it’s not the usual vacation destination.
Are there many people speaking English?
Silvia says
Most young people seemed to speak English, while older people just spoke a tiny bit!
Ola says
Oh great! I wasn’t sure about the communication, now I’m less worried about this 🙂
Micah says
Wow, gorgeous scenery and such an interesting story. Thanks!
Silvia says
Albania really is so interesting!
Emily says
So scary. It’s sad that we really don’t learn more about what happened in Albania (I guess I was like 10 when all that went down?) It does seem to be a pretty beautiful country. I’m glad they are beginning to recover.
Silvia says
It does seem to have taken a happier turn 🙂
Deepti @ Endless Postcards says
I had no clue about Albania’s history — until now, I just thought it was a beautiful country that I had to make sure to visit someday! (Says something about how naive I can be, eh?)
I can’t even imagine having that many bunkers and how terrifying life was back then. I’m glad that it’s getting better!
xo, endlesspostcards.com
Silvia says
It’s really hard to imagine what Albania was like back then, because now it’s so lovely!
Polly says
So interesting! I’ve never got much of a dangerous vibe from Albania – maybe that’s my own naivete or, like you’ve said, it’s really not that dangerous after all!
Silvia says
I agree 🙂
Camille says
So odd! Imagine when you build something now and have to work around the bunkers! Thanks for the slice of history Silvia 🙂
Silvia says
Right? It’s so bizarre.
Christina - CavaforLunch.com says
Thanks for the history lesson! In my opinion, Albania looks magnificent 🙂
Silvia says
It really is magnificent 🙂
becky hutner says
Wow! It’s these quirky bits that often fascinate me most about a country. Did you ever venture inside one of them? Perhaps for a bit of private romance with Dan?
Silvia says
Haha like I would tell! Ha no, I did peek in though. Not super cozy…
Victoria@ The British Berliner says
Wow! I can’t even imagine what it would be like to live your life constantly surrounded by a huge number of bubkers scattered around. It’s a bit like living in Berlin.
I live in a gentrified area so a lot of deep digging goes on in re-constructing “new” buildings so every now and then, areas are closed off because a bomb from WWII was discovered. A few years ago, it was near my office and we all got evacuated for a few hours while they detonated it! I’m guessing there’s a whole lot more…!
Kinga says
The guy who was responsible for designing the bunkers had a test to pass in front of Enver Hoxa. Actually, he had to go inside his own bunker while a large bomb was being detonated nearby and if he survived, he basically won his life and Hoxa would be satisfied. If he died, well… it would mean the bunkers need some redesign.. by someone else. 😉 This country is so special now because of them.
Remina says
Hello Silvia! I’m Remina, a 1997’s kid from Albania. I came across your blog by pure chance and I was beyond amazed. I can’t believe how much you’ve traveled through Albania and learned our history. It’s good to know that even though we are a small country we still have beautiful things, places and so much history to show to other people. If you ever come again, please get in touch whenever you want to show you more of our Albania!
Silvia says
Thank you for your sweet comment! Albania is such an amazing country, I could go back again and again!
Gerti says
Those bunkers are the castles of the XX century. Unfortunately, the enemy got the castle from inside, as it has been the case other times in the past.