All about travel and backpacking in Azerbaijan
It’s been a while since I’ve done an Off the Path post, maybe because I’ve been so focused on Norway the past few months that I’ve been doing less than my usual amount of daydreaming about future trips abroad. But a couple of weeks ago I booked a flight to Scotland for May and since then it’s been a rapid downhill tumble back into hours spent on Skyscanner.
So in the past week I’ve been pestering Dan about going to Portugal, Moldova, Belarus, and most recently, Azerbaijan.
I’ve heard such mixed things about Azerbaijan from travelers I’ve met. In Central Asia a lot of backpackers had passed through Azerbaijan and told me about the interesting mix of East, West, and Soviet there, and of course while traveling through the Caucasus and Iran I heard a lot of opinions about the country as well. And now I’m just so curious to see it for myself!
So you can imagine my delight when Astrid contacted me offering to write another Off the Path post (she’s already shared her experience in Salalah, Oman and Puerto Edén, Chile) about this intriguing country.
The Country
Azerbaijan
In May 2014, I went on a tour through the Caucasus region for a couple of weeks. After travelling through Armenia and Georgia, we made our way to Azerbaijan and spent a week in the country. I have always been interested in off-the-beaten-path places and lesser visited countries and Azerbaijan definitely falls into this category. Like most people I know, I had hardly ever heard of the country except when the Eurovision Song Contest was held in Baku in 2012.
Why You Need to Visit Azerbaijan
Where do I begin? It is a very special place, not really comparable to any other destinations. The country lies at the crossroads between Europe and Asia, it is a very unique mix of cultures and religions. Although most people (95%) are Muslim, you hardly see any hijabs (headscarves) but instead women parade the latest international fashion on the promenade in Baku and at the beach resorts at the Caspian Sea.
Azerbaijan is a secular state and ensures religious freedom. Very close to politically instable regions and countries (Chechnya and Dagestan in particular) and despite ongoing tensions with Armenia over the exclaves of Nachitchevan and Nagorno-Karabakh, the country is very safe and the people are almost universally genuinely friendly and very interested in foreign visitors.
The Azerbaijani language is similar to Turkish, but because of the Soviet past, many people still speak Russian, too. 9 out of 11 climate zones can be found in the country, from high mountains to sorchingly hot deserts, from green lush meadows to a moon-like landscapes with mud volcanoes in the Gobustan province.
Architecture, fashion, people and food are a blend of East and West. Turkish and Arabic influences together with European and Russian traits are most visible in the markets, restaurants and bazaars. Some people compare the cultural diversity to Bosnia but in my opinion Azerbaijan is far more exotic and the Persian/Arabic/Turkish mix with Soviet heritage is something you will find nowhere else in the world.
If you like architecture, the county is a wonderland of Soviet style, ancient mosques and modern monumental buildings. The oil industry of the Caspian Sea has made the country rich and ist effects can be seen all over Baku.
We spent some time in Sheki in the northeast as well. The Shah palace there is magnificent and the market was a memorable experience. We were the only foreigners there.
The farmers from the mountains sold their sheep, wool, vegetables and farm products – huge jars of homemade walnut and rose jam (never even knew walnut jam existed before!), bundles of wool, sheep heads on plates (yikes), tomatoes the size of grapefruits, self-made liqueur or vodka of some sort in plastic bottles, spices … so much to see! The markets are also good for buying some local crafts as souvenirs as they cater mostly to locals and almost everything there is still hand made.
As an easy day trip from Baku, head to Gobustan and see one of the world’s oldest petroglyph collection-over 4000 petroglyphs dating back to the stone ages can be seen there. But don’t only go to see the petroglyphs.
The desert scenery is stunning, there are lizards and small snakes (if you love reptiles as much as I do) and the drive itself is an attraction. You drive along the coast with a view of the oil rings in the Caspian sea as well as the oil refineries and industrial plants stretching almost 100 km south from Baku. This is spectacular to see by itself – I don’t want to get into a discussion about the effects on the environment there though…
Next time I come to Azerbaijan, I would like to spend some time at a homestay in the mountains, hike or ski and get to know the life up there. Airbnb and some tour operators offer experiences like this but we didn’t have enough time.
How to Get to Azerbaijan
There are international flights into Baku Heydar Aliyev International Airport from several European cities. Many flights go via Vienna or Istanbul. For the cheapest flights into Baku, check this link.
You can also travel to Azerbaijan overland from Georgia, like we did, crossing the border at Matsimi. There are other border crossings southeast of Tbilisi.
For international buses, check this link.
You can also get there by train from Tbilisi. Going through Russia and crossing the border at is not recommended because of the ongoing instability, military actions and civil unrest in the Dagestan and Chechnya provinces. The border to Armenia is closed. In the south, you have the option to continue into Iran.
For domestic transport, there are marshrutki, like in other ex-Soviet Union countries, and buses.
The country has an extensive bus network, for schedules check this link.
Renting a car or a car with a driver is also possible, fuel is cheap and the roads are generally quite good.
I found the website of the Tourism Office very helpful.
Remember to check for visa requirements – almost all Western countries need a visa.
Where to Stay in Azerbaijan (Baku)
For budget travellers, there are only a handful of hostels in Baku. I heard good things about Baku Old City Hostel. You can check their rates here. Guesthouses are pretty cheap (about 30 € per room per night) and there are many listings on Airbnb – they may be the cheapest options in Baku.
We stayed in a hotel because Azerbaijan is cheap for Western European standards. Not as dirt-cheap as Armenia and parts of Georgia, but still extremely affordable, at least when we went back in 2014. The Old East Hotel is in a convenient location with beautiful, comfortable rooms. Check current rates and availability here
Would you visit?
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About the Author:
Travelling has been her passion for as long as she can remember (together with medicine) and she’s trying to see as much of the world as possible while working full time. She has already visited 40 countries and always has new travel plans. She loves travelling because it offers the excitement of seeing something new, getting to know foreign places and people and getting out of her comfort zone! While she doesn’t have a blog, you can follow her travels on Instagram @Asta_Scha.
Have a special place off the beaten path you’d like to share? Email me at heartmybackpack@gmail.com with the destination and I’ll send you some questions to answer about it!
Megan says
ohhh azerbaijan. i had tickets booked into baku (and further tickets booked into nakhchivan) in june 2014 and aeroflot cancelled them a month before the trip. i got a full refund but still haven’t recovered from missing the opportunity to go there and haven’t had a chance since! it is so great to read the tips and info above. hopefully i can make it there in the next year or so!
Silvia says
ughh that would be so frustrating! i feel that way about missing out on belarus 🙁 hope to make it to both eventually though!
David says
I was already super keen to go to Azerbaijan and the rest of the Caucuses, but even more so now! Beautiful photos! I’ll be sure to keep this article handy for the future.
Silvia says
Right? Astrid has me dying to visit Azerbaijan now!
Jordan says
So cool!!! Now I’m inspired to travel here 🙂
Silvia says
It does just seem like such an interesting place!
Nick @ concrete and kitsch says
I’m really inspired by the high Caucasus of Azerbaijan – kind of like an undiscovered, Islamic Kazbegi or Svaneti. Xinaliq, in particular, looks like one of those places that time forgot – even moreso than the isolated parts of Georgia (Tusheti, Svaneti, etc.).
I’m interested in Baku, also – people we met in Georgia were constantly telling us to skip Armenia and go to Baku instead (so cosmopolitan!). It actually reminds me of a more Middle Eastern Tbilisi. Those flame buildings are particularly hideous against the contrast of the old city. But I guess you can’t stop “progress”!
Silvia says
Just reading this comment is making me want to go to Azerbaijan even more badly, haha. The bug is contagious!
Elizabeth says
So cool! I love learning more about countries I don’t know much about, and adding more places to my list!
Silvia says
That’s exactly why I started this series!
Alex says
I’d never really thought about visiting Azerbaijan mainly because I just hadn’t heard much about it, but thanks to this post it’s now definitely on my list!
Silvia says
It does seem like an underrated destination!
The Common Wanderer says
Glad we stumbled across this post – another country to add to the every growing list!
From those pictures of Baku, the mix of old and new architecture looks incredible. And 9 out of 11 climatic zones, sounds perfect!
Great post!
Silvia says
Right? It just seems like such a fascinating place!
Victoria@ The British Berliner says
Would I visit Azerbaijan?
Yes! Yes! And yes!
I love reading about the more unsual destination and how people made it happen!
Silvia says
Yes!!
Vanessa Saade says
I love your photos so much!! I have already been to Azerbaijan and can’t wait to go back. My purpose was to visit a friend… I didn’t know it was that interesting. I’ve been to Sheki as well…AMAZING!! And the lavash fruit!!! yummyy :):)
Silvia says
Oooh I bet the fruit was amazing!
Renu Kapoor says
I am so happy I stumbled upon this write up. I have been dreaming of going to Azerbaijan fir some time now. I have read so much about the country and have seen everything there is to be viewed on Youtube as well. I am happy to find kindred spirits who feel the same way about this country. God willing I will soon see Azerbaijan with my own eyes.
Silvia says
Oh I hope you do make it there!
Marine says
Interesting article for a not-so-known destination! Both cities and nature look amazing! Thanks for sharing 🙂
Ramanpreet Singh says
Hi Astrid,
hope everything is going great.. Just wanted to seek your permission, if i can use your blog for writing to my LinkedIn profile to boost tourism for Azerbaijan from India market , Also i will share your blog reference for more details (Stating it has been copied from Astrid Blog )
Will look forward to hear from you.
Regards
Ramanpreet
Azerbaijan says
Azerbaijan article is amazing. Thanks for sharing.
Visit Azerbaijan LLC says
Thanks for your post it is very beautiful.
Dinesh Malhotra says
I had a mixed experience this year in Azerbaijan. I travelled in a Train from Georgia. Most people I met were friendly but when I was sitting on the bench together with another guy in city park, an elderly man approached and told us to move closer so that he can sit there as well in a very unfriendly way ( although just 5 meters away, there was another free bench ) we moved a bit and I was putting my leg on another and told me to put it down (also in an unfriendly way ). The other guy sitting near me told that older people think that many Arab people ( who look alike ) come for sex tourism, make dirt on the city, thatswhy he might have think that I am the one. Anyway, I didnt mind much.
The train going from Georgia to Baku was almost empty, so I went to the train station to buy ticket in Baku on the same day around 12 ( departure was 21 pm), I told the young girl also speaking English to give me a second class ticket, she said that she can give me only 3rd class as 1st and 2nd class are sold out. So I bought that but with third class ticket you are in open cabin, its not comfortable. Later, 1 hour before departing, I asked in the counter if anyone has cancelled second class ticket and if so, if I can buy that, the friendly guy told me that there are enough 2nd or 1st class tickets available. I was confused why the lady before told me that. I bought 2nd class ticket, returned the 3rd class, I was told that I can only be refunded 50%. It was ok, but I was very angry with that girl who, for whatever reason refused to sell me the right tickets.
Finally, the border police did not look friendly when they saw Armenian stamp on my passport. Baku was a nice city but I also heard the hotel reception complaining about Arab tourists as they make noises, and the tour guides were complaining about behaviours of tourists from the middle east. So, at last, I had mixed feelings about Azerbaijan.
Rob says
Azerbaijan is a part of Europe I guess, not Asia. It competes in Eurovision Song Contest as well 🙂
Silvia says
Yeah I’m always confused if it’s Asia or Europe! I’m also confused about Georgia. But then Israel also competes in Eurovision, and it’s not Europe, is it?