Sometimes a city totally overwhelms me with its beautiful architecture, laid-back vibe, and unique culture and I can’t help but fall in love. But other times, my love for a city comes from the amazing people I meet there. Saint Petersburg was one of those times.
Of course even if we hadn’t Couchsurfed with Nikolai I would have loved Saint Petersburg – even in the gray end-of-winter weather the city glowed. Seriously, how did the residents of Saint Petersburg luck out in living somewhere this beautiful?
But even if Saint Petersburg had had all the charm of Ulaanbaatar (for those who don’t remember, it was bleak) I would have loved it.
We Couchsurfed with a young Russian guy named Nikolai who simply could not have been a more fantastic host. He introduced us to his friends, took us to his favorite spots to hang out in the city, and told us stories about the Russian countryside and white nights that had me longing to explore Russia in the summer.
My only complaint about Nikolai and his friend Vitali is that their enthusiasm for their 1000 kilometer cycling trip through the Norwegian fjords may have given Dan some dangerous ideas. I guess I’m going to have to start going to the gym…
Anti-Cafés in Saint Petersburg
I’m probably about to betray how out of touch I am with hip café culture around the world, but are anti-cafés a thing now? The only other time I had been to one was while in Almaty, Kazakhstan, so I had figured they must just be a trend in former Soviet republics, but a quick Google search just told me that actually they’re all over Europe now?!
For those of you who are even less in the know than I am (I’m going to go ahead and pretend that’s the case for someone out there) an anti-café is a place where you don’t pay for your coffee and snacks, but instead you pay for the time you spend there.
The first anti-café we visited is in the city center and called Friends, but good luck finding it, because you won’t.
Friends is a secret café located at the top of an ordinary apartment building. As we walked upstairs Nikolai whispered to us to be quiet, because they don’t want the neighbors to become suspicious, though I found it hard to believe that so many people don’t know that they’re living underneath one of the city’s hippest new spots.
We walked in to be greeted by the sweet smell of shisha smoke, and one of the staff handed me a long-stem rose – because it was International Women’s Day! I can’t remember how long we were there for – maybe 3 or 4 hours – but at the end we paid 450 RUB (under 8 USD) for unlimited tea, cookies, and shisha.
The next day we went to Freedom, another anti-café, but this one couldn’t have been more different from Friends. Instead of tucked away in a tiny smoke-filled apartment, Freedom is in a beautiful historic building on Kazanskaya 7 with high ceilings, old portraits, and even a grand piano for visitors to play.
The anti-café costs 2 RUB/minute, and we spent the rainy afternoon there playing Dixit and drinking far too many lattes for my caffeine-sensitive body to handle.
Quirky Museums in Saint Petersburg
Even though I generally hate museums, I figured it would be a crime to go to Saint Petersburg without seeing the famous Hermitage Museum. Or Dan guilted me into going. One of the two.
The State Hermitage really is so beautiful!
At least Dan told me the Hermitage was beautiful, because I spent most of my time here:
I can just hear my parents sighing – I really don’t know what’s wrong with me, but even the most amazing museums in the world seem to exhaust me.
Unfortunately for me we had two more museums on our St. Petersburg agenda, BUT luckily for me, these were no ordinary museums. In fact, they really weren’t like museums at all.
Grand Maket Russia
I really enjoyed the Grand Maket Russia, but really I think it’s every small child’ (and probably grown man’s) dream museum: it’s a scaled version of all of Russia’s regions, including tiny houses, people, and even toy model trains running through the country.
The Grand Maket doesn’t show specific Russian cities but instead a generalized version, complete with snow for Siberia, and every few minutes the lights would dim for a night scene. What I really loved though was the intense attention to detail, down to smoking buildings with firetrucks hosing them down, workers stopping for a lunchtime snack, and even someone (accidentally?) jumping off a bridge.
Admission: 400 RUB (7 USD).
Museum of Soviet Arcade Games
A lot of Russian cities have a version of this museum, but my research told me that St. Petersburg’s is the best. Now I’m not a big arcade game fanatic, but these mechanical games were a lot of fun, and usually hilarious and/or bizarre. It sort of blew my mind that a lot of them aren’t even that old – the age of smart phones and Google glass really is worlds away from life just a couple of decades ago – especially Soviet life!
Admission: 450 RUB (8 USD), which includes 15 tokens to play games.
We ended our time in Saint Petersburg with a night of good old-fashioned karaoke with Nikolai and his friends. It was our last day in Russia, so I guess it was appropriate that somewhere in the middle of two gruff looking Russian men’s inspired rendition of “Sex Bomb,” something for me clicked.
Yes, Russian culture is in many ways bizarre – and so distinct from the rest of Asia and Europe, and yes, Russian politics can sometimes seem insane, but there’s something so utterly special and unique about the enormous country and its people.
It’s hard to pinpoint what exactly sets Russians so apart, but I really think there’s something about life that Russians really get. Obviously I’m generalizing here, but I love how romantic Russians are with their love for poetry and theater, and their sometimes dark, sometimes downright bizarre humor. But mostly I love how absolutely Russian Russians are.
Russia, I’ll be back.
I’ll eventually write up a post with details of how we did the trans-Siberian route with local trains on the cheap, but as I’ve already had a few questions about prices, I just calculated our budget and we each spent an average of 13 USD/day in Russia. That includes all accommodation (we Couchsurfed about half the time), food, and travel expenses, but excludes visas.
The ruble is incredibly weak right now, so if you’re looking to save money, now is the time to visit Russia!
Jameela Deen says
I’m such a fan of your writing. I know very little about St Petersbourg but i did research it last year to send my mum there on a surprise trip and when she came back after 10 days she was full of superlatives lol. She said that she had seen some of the most beautiful places ever in St Petersbourg (she went to some palaces for classic music concerts and ballet) and she was 100% happy with everything. She stayed with a family there and she too commented on how friendly they were… Added bonus she stayed there during the white nights and she totally recommends it. Apparently there are loads to do and see when the city continues to live through the night.
Silvia says
Wow, sending your mom on a surprise trip to St Petersburg? Definitely the world’s best daughter! I would love to see Russia in the summer – I think I’ll have to go back for the white nights!
Rachel says
Anti-cafés, what a genius idea! Freedom looks gorgeous, how glam! Unlimited tea and cake: oh the world needs more of these places!
There is so much to see in St Petersburg, I wish I’d booked more time there (actually, no I don’t because then I may not have met the amazing people I ended up travelling with later on!), we barely scratched the surface in the 3 days we had, especially as day one was written off due to an horrendous hangover from the vodka-fuelled overnight train from Lithuania!
I really, geekily would have liked to have seen the Grand Maket Russia, the Miniatur Wonderland (the same idea but vast) in Hamburg blew me away!
Your couchsurfing guys sound amazing!
Silvia says
I wish I had had more time in St Petersburg as well – it’s definitely a city I’ll be returning to (hopefully soon)!
zof says
Anti cafes. Yerevan has one too and I had to say it, of course, because this is what I always do.
Silvia says
Haha LOVE. Yerevan really is the coolest.
Jenia says
I am so glad you loved St Petersburg! I might be biased, but I do believe St Petersburg is one of the most (or just THE?!) most beautiful cities in the world 🙂 You will have to come back for the white nights and spend a weekend out in the countryside at a proper dacha with banya and lake and all!
Silvia says
It’s definitely one of the most beautiful cities I’ve seen. But you’re right, I need to return for the dacha experience in summer!
Justine says
Thank you for giving a definition of what an anti-cafe is because I was just about to Google it. No, I had never heard of them before. Yes, I do live under a rock. Anyhow, Saint Petersburg is just bursting with beauty. It’s funny, I’ve always wanted to visit Saint Petersburg but I feel like I haven’t seen all that many photos of it. It’s amazing! Ha, I love that photo of you in the museum. You don’t look like a happy camper!
Silvia says
Haha I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one under this rock. I had always heard St Petersburg is gorgeous, but I hadn’t seen too many photos of it either! It definitely blew me away.
Miquel says
Ok sooooo I guess I’ll just go ahead and admit I have never heard of an anti cafe. But they seem pretty cool!
You totally have me daydreaming about booking a ticket to Russia!
Silvia says
You should definitely book that ticket 🙂
Sam says
I’d vaguely heard of this idea of anti-cafes, and I love the idea but I still haven’t found one! I think I would love it (and yes, probably gorge myself on the ‘free’ tea and cakes). I especially love how the first one you went to was a complete secret – how exciting! I’m also totally with you regarding how museums are exhausting. Absolutely! Especially big ones.
Silvia says
Haha anti cafes are definitely a little dangerous when it comes to my lack of restraint – but mmm gorging on tea and cakes isn’t so bad!
Vera says
Wow! All of these photos from St. Petersburg are so stunning. It must be definitely a beautiful city. And wow, The Maket Russian museum looks so cool! The Hermitage must also be beautiful too. Have a nice day,
Vera
The Flash Window | Bloglovin
Silvia says
Thanks, Vera, St Petersburg is definitely special!
Amy says
How cool! I’m going to St. Petersburg in September and ‘Im so excited! I’ll definitely have to check out the anti cafes (never heard of them before either)! Thanks for the tips!
Silvia says
Locals seem to really love the anti cafes, so you should definitely check them out if you want to hang with the cool people 😉
Sarah says
I’ve never couchsurfed before but I’d really like to try it, especially after reading this. That’s great you had a local to show you all the good (aka non-touristy) spots. I have yet to go to an anti- café but it sounds like a cool concept. Happy travels!
Silvia says
Thanks, Sarah! I’ve had so many amazing experiences Couchsurfing. I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s at least worth a try!
becky hutner says
i love how russian it is too!! even though i’ve never been. but i really would like my next adventure to be an epic pilgrimage through eastern europe. confession: i didn’t know about anti-cafes either. sad sad times…
Silvia says
I would LOVE to read about that pilgrimage! Especially the part where you finally discover the wonders of an anti-cafe.
Jo @ MigratingBird says
Saint Petersburg is so beautiful! I’m hoping to make it there for the white nights next summer, can’t wait to see all those gorgeous buildings for real. I had to look up what anti-cafes are, but turns out we have one in London. I never made it there, but it sounds like such a good idea.
And sorry, but I’m (gently) shaking my head at you like a disappointed mother- how could you be exhausted by a museum like that?! Poking around old buildings that have been converted into museums indulges my nosy ‘snooping around people’s houses’ side!
Silvia says
Haha my parents are surely shaking their heads at me too. I really don’t know what’s wrong with me – I was so excited to go to the Hermitage, but then immediately exhausted by it!
Nikolai Filimonov says
OMFG I’m becoming popular in the Internets, haha!
Silvia says
You ARE!!
Brooke of Passport Couture says
I hadn’t heard of anti-cafes, so it was interesting to learn about how they work and your experience. It’s great you got to experience Saint Petersburg with a local! Although I love museums, you can get a burnout from too many, so I completely understand your feelings on being overwhelmed by too many. You definitely have to space them out.
Silvia says
Anti-cafes are certainly interesting – you should check them out!
Giannina says
Hey, I just came back from Freedom anti-cafe and when looking it up on google afterwards I found your website! I was wondering where this super hip Friends anti-cafe is that you wrote about? 🙂
An anti-cafe with shisha sounds amazing!
Silvia says
Oh I hope you enjoyed Freedom! It’s such a funny place. As for the Friends anti-cafe, it’s in the top floor apartment of a random residential building downtown, so it’s the sort of place you could only find if you know someone who knows it (I don’t know the address). It’s a word of mouth place, and in fact I wouldn’t be surprised if its location has changed since I visited. Sorry, that’s not very helpful, but have fun in St. Petersburg!
Annie Anywhere says
Hi! I saw the post was written at the end of March by I was wondering during what month you travelled there? I am planning a trip in April and I am trying to figure out what the weather will be like. Thank you! 🙂
Silvia says
I was there in mid-March. Not sure how different the weather would be in April, but I would prepare for a lot of sleet just in case!
George Zh says
Thank You for the wonderful story about my favorite city! Come visit us again!
Silvia says
I hope to!
Dancing Bear says
I live in St. Petersburg, we have more than 200 museums
MuseumFan says
Very unique and beautiful city, cant wait to go back after the current situation plays out