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Alone in Iran – What Was I Thinking?

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I have never had people express so many opinions about my travels as when I decided to backpack Iran solo for two weeks. Everyone seemed to have something to say about it, with responses ranging from “That is amazing, I would totally join you if I didn’t have a U.S. passport,” to “You’re going there alone? What sort of death wish do you have?” and the blunt words of my extremely well-traveled great uncle, “Iran is not a nice place, go to Greece instead.”

A friend of a friend even wrote a Facebook note (people still write those?) about my plans, saying that I was either incredibly brave, or incredibly naive and ignorant. In the end he applauded my willingness to put myself in harm’s way in order to experience a place with real sexism, which he took to be some sort of feminist statement about being a woman in America.

What?! Sorry to disappoint, but really I just wanted to see Persia.

I mean, Iran is home to one of the world’s oldest civilizations, hosts nineteen UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and boasts beautiful landscapes stretching from dense rain forests to snowcapped mountains to desert basins. Plus, so many backpackers whom I met in Central Asia absolutely raved about their time backpacking through Iran. The hospitable people, delicious food and historic sites – how could I not add backpacking Iran to my travel itinerary?

So, was backpacking Iran solo a good decision?

I’ve now been in Iran for a week and a half and, like most places, it’s not exactly what I had imagined. I’m writing this from my new friend Mina’s apartment, where we’re huddled together with hot mugs of tea listening to loud explosions coming from the street. Every few minutes a particularly large explosion will light up the apartment and we’ll look at each other with a mixture of fear and awe.

You guys, it’s the Persian New Year!

As part of the “Nowruz” New Year’s celebrations, which are Iran’s biggest of the year and include Zoroastrian rituals and traditions dating back 3,000 years, on the last Tuesday of the year, families gather together in celebration, building bonfires to run around and jump over, lighting off firecrackers, and sending fire lanterns into the sky, all with random outbursts of song and dance.

New Year Tehran

Backpacking Iran: Celebrating Nowruz in Tehran!

Earlier in the evening while we were all on the apartment building’s rooftop, Mina’s brother joked that this is probably every American’s nightmare of Iran.

“If your friends could see you now, in the middle of Tehran surrounded by fires and explosions, what would they think? Or maybe… this is what they think Iran is always like?”

travel Iran alone

backpacking Iran – scary stuff! (or not)

He was joking of course, but there was a sad element of truth to his words.

One of the first questions people here ask me is always, “What did you think of Iran before you came here?”

              See also: A Road Trip Through Iranian Kurdistan

My first Couchsurfing hosts in Tehran, a young Ph.D. student and her roommate, said they were so excited to be hosting an American girl, and that they hope more tourists will start to come to Iran. They were incredibly warm and welcoming hosts, cooking delicious Persian food and asking me countless questions about Norway and the U.S. and foreigners’ impressions of Iran. And unlike everyone at home, they seemed to think it was totally acceptable for a solo female traveler to backpack Iran. Just saying.

Mina, a girl from Tehran who invited me out to lunch through Couchsurfing was similarly curious about foreigners coming to Iran. She explained that while Iranians don’t necessarily like their government, they do love their country and are eager to share it with guests.

I really wish that I could have told them all that of course Americans are interested in visiting Iran and that they realize that there’s a huge difference between the people of Iran and their government, but I would probably have been lying. Most people whom I talked with about my trip offered me strong words of caution, with some even trying to convince me not to go, especially alone (and especially as a solo female traveler, ugh).

The thing is, I haven’t felt alone once since I landed in Iran.

The receptionist at my first hotel took me in as her daughter, accompanying me to breakfast and lunch and suggesting sites for me to visit, my Couchsurfing hosts were like cool older sisters, chatting with me about religion and politics as well as the plot twists of Lost and J-Lo’s divorce (I’m so out of touch), and Mina truly has adopted me as her sister, with an invitation to lunch turning into a trip to visit Esfahan and then several days with her family in Tehran.

New Year's celebration Tehran, backpacking Iranvisiting Esfahan, backpack Iranvisiting Esfahan, Iran

Backpacking Iran: Esfahan

Perhaps solo female travel in Iran could be dangerous, but for me it hasn’t been an issue. I mean, even the tap water here is safe!

There have been times, as in any city, when I’ve been walking alone and noticed a man walking uncomfortably close to me. Whether the threat was in my imagination or not, all it ever took was for me to move close to another woman and the guy would quickly disappear. Scary stuff, Iran.

So far my experience backpacking in Iran has only been one of warmth and hospitality, and really, really amazing food! I’m tempted to think all this hype over solo female travel in Iran has been blown way out of proportion. Though, in a few hours Mina and I are backpacking to Marivan, a small Kurdish city on the border to Iraq. So you know, maybe I’ll have some more eventful things to share from there! (Kidding, family, Kurdistan is of course totally safe.)

I am a dual American and Norwegian citizen, and I traveled to Iran on my Norwegian passport. You can read about my experience getting a visa to Iran here. You can read top ten tips for backpacking Iran here.Some nationalities (including the US and UK at the time of writing) can only visit as part of a tour. And of course I know some people prefer to travel on organized tours anyway. My top tour recommendation for Iran would be the Discover Persia 14-day G Adventures tour, which I’ve heard nothing but good things about (the itinerary looks amazing!). Check here for the latest Discover Persia tour prices and itinerary.

 What to pack as a female traveler in Iran

You do have to dress conservatively as a woman in Iran, but you can still wear colorful, pretty clothes! Just make sure that your tops and/or jackets that you wear outside hit around your mid-thigh and aren’t low cut. And a normal scarf will work fine for covering your head – use a lightweight one in the summer and heavier scarf in the winter (and if, like me, you struggle with keeping it on your head, use bobby pins!).

Here are some of my favorite appropriate things to wear in Iran:

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backpacking solo through iran as a woman

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Comments

      • Hi Silvia, I am an American from Los Angeles living in Yerevan, Armenia for the last 12 years. I admire your Indiana Jones type adventurousness. Come to Armenia and bring Rana with you. Or just send Mina here to me.

        There are lots of Iranians here in Armenia now – about 200,000 come every March 21 and stay for about 10 days, and some never leave.

        Tell Mina I said – Mina-ye-aziz, dokhtar-e-kheili-ghashang, be keshvar-e-Armeni va sharh-e-Yerevan mosaferat bokoni o be-man bia. 🙂 🙂 🙂

        Antonio

        Reply

          • Haha Mina says that your comment is very sweet! I wish she could travel with me to Armenia. Maybe someday!!

        • Mr. Anthony! It is better that you come to Iran.
          Ms. Mina and Ms. Silvia do not come to Armenia ….
          You’ve worked with tens of thousands of people in Armenia !!!!(: D (: D (: D

          Reply

          • ohhhh u speaking persian very well I’m proud of my country I promise u u will really enjoy to traveling Iran .my husband is from south Africa he is looking forward to see historical sits of Iran special Shiraz and Isfehan.
            we love guest and our hospitality is popular.
            then welcome to Iran ☺

        • ohhhh u speaking persian very well I’m proud of my country I promise u u will really enjoy to traveling Iran .my husband is from south Africa he is looking forward to see historical sits of Iran special Shiraz and Isfehan.
          we love guest and our hospitality is popular.
          then welcome to Iran ☺

          Reply

      • Silvia, let’s go together next time. my family live there and I can give you tour the best places with no problem such as language or etc. I love Iran so much too and so do my kids.

        Reply

      • refreshing and good to see that you met tons of great people. I agree we are all individuals and not necessarily our government. However we do have the privilege of travelling. FYI I’ve liked every Persian I’ve ever met! Thx for your amazing post and humour! May you explore many more places with terrible reputations that are AMAZING!!!

        Reply

    • Great post, I am so glad you’ve had such positive experiences! I am heading to Tehran on Thursday, and I’m so looking forward to it. I’m going for similar reasons to you – I imagine the country to be a beautiful place, the mosques to be breathtaking and the people to be warm…but there’s also a part of me who wants to prove those narrow-minded people who thin Iran’s dangerous wrong.

      I was also interested to note you’re wearing skinny jeans…I have been worrying about finding loose enough trousers and long skirts, but glad to see it’s not all that conservative!

      Reply

      • You’re going to love it, I promise! Trousers can be as tight as you want as long as you’re always wearing a top that hits mid-thigh (covering your butt). (Just responded to your email – let me know if you need anything else!)

        Reply

        • hi Silvia, thank you for your sharing above, it’s so lovely, because i will travel to iran for business purpose and in solo…

          can i have few question below:

          1. was it convenient for a single lady to get a public transport at Tehran? is it safe?
          2. so i can wear tight jeans as long as my shirt is hit the mid thigh? and the shirt not necessary to cover my neck?
          3. how do i book a hotel? i cant find any recommendation on booking.com nor aggoda.com
          4. is it they only accept USD or Euro at any transaction? and only cash, no credit card at all? even in hotel?

          thank you in advance for your respond…

          Reply

          • 1. public transport was easy and felt safe, especially because i often sat in a special compartment with only women!
            2. yes you can wear tight jeans, and you don’t have to cover your neck!
            3. i think you can book on hotelyar.com, or find a hotel there and call them.
            4. i only used cash in iran, also at my hotel. i brought euros and exchanged them in tehran.

      • Nice to hear these kind words. I’m from Iran. I strongly look forward to seeing more tourists in Iran. Other countries are not able to advertise our country correctly. You can wear everything you’d like. Unfortunately you have to cover some parts of your body. I know that it’s ridiculous!

        Reply

      • Hi I’m Fardina From IRAN,
        I’m so very happy that people are keen to see iran 🙂
        I’ll be happy to help you as you arrive to iran, Ilive in Tehran my email is fardinamin@gmail.com.
        contact me if you or anyone needs to gather some info about trip to IRAN.
        AND REALLY THANK YOU SILVIA ABOUT YOUR GREAT POST ABOUT IRAN.

        Reply

    • Loved your pictures and your blog – thanks for sharing. I lived in Tehran many years ago with my family and think often of my experiences there and still have a wish to return (visit only).

      Reply

      • Thanks! I hope that you get a chance to return for a visit sometime soon – Tehran really is such a special city.

        Reply

      • Salute from a Persian to Milton Kraft, with a tiny little advice:
        Although everything is pictured so nice and pretty by kind and lovely Silvia and some other Iranian fellas, but your better off holding a non American passport and be concerned about your safety if you are or have been in an even minor political or… position.

        Behnam Bahrami

        Reply

    • Thank you dear Nathan Anderson. Iranian land, my beautiful land. There is security here. Here people around the world could do without the inconvenience and trouble to travel to different places of beauty. Isfahan, Shiraz, Hamadan, Khorasan, Tehran, Golestan. . . Really beautiful. We’re happy that we are open to people worldwide.
      Have a sweet moment ….. Majid.

      Reply

    • Iran or Persia is a country of four seasons. In the winter, if you like to take a summer ride, it’s just enough to go to the warm waters of the Persian Gulf with a maximum flight of 2 hours from anywhere in Iran, or fly to a cool paradise in the northwest with a maximum flight of 2 hours a day in the summer . Such climate variation is unique in the world.

      Iran’s culture is as beautiful and varied as its climate. This is because of the business relations which Iran has had from the ancient history to these days. Iran always has been used as a bridge between East and the West world. The ancient monuments and Silk Road is the strong evidence to that. The variety of wearing, the variety of Accents and dialects are the result of these business relations.

      Reply

  3. You’re my hero. Simple as that.
    I find great inspiration through the travels of others but you have just raised the bar. I’m stoked to continue reading of your experiences in Iran while formulating my own plan to enter the country.
    -Cheers

    Reply

    • Ha wow, that must be the nicest comment I’ve gotten on this blog. I’ll be excited to read about your own adventure in Iran as well, Nicholas!

      Reply

    • I would be truly happy to help you, if you like i can help you out to visit my country, try our best food and visit our breathtaking places… u can contact me if one day u see an opportunity to come.

      Reply

  4. I work with a woman who lived in Brooklyn and “could” not go see her mother in a hospice in the Bronx alone because it was “too far to go alone”

    You are the exact opposite of that and I love that you went to Iran alone. I hope more people read your travels and are inspired to drop their fears.

    Also, I just Googled Marivan – wow. I cannot wait to read about your travels there. It looks so beautiful.

    Reply

    • Ha thanks, Jennifer, I would definitely love to lower some fears surrounding traveling, as so often they’re completely misplaced. I’m in Marivan now and can hardly believe it – so magical!

      Reply

    • Ahh I would love to go to Morocco! Excited to hear how your trip goes – I’m sure it will be so amazing!

      Reply

    • have a good Trip in my Beauty country Iran…
      Go to isfahan
      Go to shiraz
      go to Tehran
      and enjoy from the beautifully of my country

      Reply

  6. YES!!!!!!!!! I LOVE this so much!! I loved reading about your experience in a place most Americans would be terrified of visiting. I’m also an American and I’ve been dreaming of traveling to Iran for years. I’m pretty sure this is the summer I’ll finally go. I’ve been thinking about taking an organized tour but you’ve made couchsurfing sound like a great option!

    Reply

    • Ahh thanks, Karisa!! Couchsurfing really has been super, though it might be harder for an American to swing because of the requirements for coming as part of a tour (I’m here on my Norwegian passport). Though I’ve heard you can get private guides that are pretty laid back, or less formal tours, so I’m sure you’ll work something out. And I’ll be super excited to read about your experiences when you do!

      Reply

  7. I can just imagine how scared your friends were before you headed to Iran. It is considered as a dangerous place for solo travelers, but I’m so glad you had such a great experience! I’m amazed by the hospitality there!

    Reply

    • The hospitality really has been unbelievable, and from what I’ve heard from other travelers in the past, everyone seems to have similar experiences of being taken in by Iranian families. A traveler’s dream country!

      Reply

      • You’re telling me. I cycled across Eurasia in 2012 and found everyone hospitable and warm, so no surprise I ended up marrying one. I since quit engineering and moved from Australia to Iran to start a project (sfiran.com) to help travellers. My American sister in law loved it too. Great story Silvia, always nice reading fresh stories about Iran.

        Reply

  8. Good on ya Silivia. I’m not sure that I would go to Iran myself but I’m certainly not going to discourage others who do. The world needs to see these places as real places and not just war zones. As for me, I’d rather go to Jordan or Israel LOL! Well done and stay safe with your new family. 🙂

    Reply

    • Thanks, Victoria! Now that I’m here it seems crazy to me that people see Iran as such a dangerous place to travel to. But you’re absolutely right – we should visit places we want to, whatever their reputation may be!

      Reply

    • War Zone ?! I was born and raised in Iran and I’ve not seen a gun for ages. I hope Iran be safe and peaceful because nation’s nature is.

      Reply

  9. Think the problem is that the majority of people don’t know what life is like in places like Irane, and that a lot of them are afraid of the unknown. Great to hear that you’re enjoying your time though, every time I read a post like this I feel more and more tempted to explore the Middle East.

    Reply

    • Yes! Definitely looking to feed those temptations with my posts on Iran, haha. It really is worth a visit!

      Reply

  10. I’m so glad you’re having a fantastic time and proved that Iran is perfectly fine to travel in. So many people have all these crazy preconceptions and insist places are dangerous, when they have never even been and probably barely even read anything about that place. I think some people may possibly get Iran and Iraq confused too… I’ve never been to Iran but I would have betted you would have an awesome time rather than it being scary. So glad to see that is right! Looking forward to reading more! 🙂

    Reply

    • I actually started to wonder if some people were confusing Iran with Iraq after some of the things they set about Iran. So bizarre. Glad I would at least have had well wishes from you!

      Reply

  11. It’s so great to hear more honest, positive, real stories coming out of Iran. Having just spent 32 glorious days there (in November/December) I can agree with everything you said! The place is amazing and the people are beyond hospitable. I never ever once felt in harms way. Isn’t the architecture and sites surreal?!!

    Cheers.

    Reply

    • Thanks, Dariece, reading about your experiences in Iran was huge in pushing me to visit Iran in the first place! The sites really are unbelievable – by all rights Iran should be overrun by tourists. So while people’s misconceptions about the country are incredibly sad and frustrating to me, at least I didn’t have to be surrounded by throngs of tour buses like in Uzbekistan, ha.

      Reply

  12. Happy you had a good time here. Hope have a chance to meet in your next trip. It seems you didn’t come to Shiraz and were most in Tehran & Isfahan. You lost somewhere amazing then. See u 🙂

    Reply

    • Thanks! And yes, I only had time to visit Tehran, Isfahan, and Marivan. I really want to see Shiraz, so I will have to go back to Iran soon!

      Reply

      • Hey Silvia, You Can Count on every single of us to help you in your next trip. As Mehrnaz said, you lost a chance to travel to Shiraz. Try Tabriz Next time , You’re not gonna regret it. And Count on us If you needed help.

        Sincerely , Ali Jixer

        Reply

  13. You have set an great example for all the brave ladies out there who got bashed about when they told others about their plans to obviously ‘dangerous’ places. I thank you for that, and I will definitely show those people who told me ‘Iran, are you crazy?’ your wonderful experience.

    Reply

  14. I am green with envy as I am very familiar with the beauty and diversity of the country and so happy to read your post, I am toying with the idea of travelling to Iran (with a U S passport) after I retire in the fall. My biggest concern is it will have changed so much since I lived there as a young teacher. I am afraid, like so many places,- you can’t go back and I will end up disappointed. Now Ruz was the perfect time for you to visit!

    Reply

    • Yes, Now Ruz really was such a special time to visit Iran! I hope that you will get a chance to return to Iran, Chris, and that you won’t be disappointed but instead will be filled with beautiful memories!

      Reply

  15. thanks for sharing your experience with us. I’m so proud of you and i wanted to know did you get the chance to visit Azadi square or get to meet the famous ex-president Ahmedinejad?? thank you. Deen from Ghana

    Reply

    • Thanks, Deen! I did get to visit Azadi Square, and the tower was so impressive! I can’t say that I met anyone famous though. Maybe next time, ha.

      Reply

  16. Hi dear Silvia…i’m so glad you had a great moments in my country & you like iran this much..it’s a pleasure …thank you for your nice blog….:)wish you a lovely day full of happiness

    Reply

    • Thanks Fariba, I really did love spending time in your country very much. I hope I can return again someday!

      Reply

  17. Dear Silvia,
    Thanks for your visit to Iran and your kindest opinions about our country, people, food and … .
    I’m not in Iran at the moment, since we have used the holidays to go over seas, but my wife, my daughter and I will be honored to host you or assisst you on your next trip to Tehran. May god be with you every where you go.
    Moein

    Reply

    • Thank you Moein, I’m so touched by your kind comment! I hope you enjoy the rest of your holidays overseas!

      Reply

  18. Hey Silvia, you are so lucky, it’s my dream to go to Iran. I want to go to the great Shrine of Imam Al Rida (one of the most important people in my religion) It’s a very beautiful holly place. It’s sad that even Arabs have the same western idea about Iran. People should go and visit these countries instead of relying on false television propaganda.

    Try to come to Brazil sometime, It’s beautiful, but dangerous. I’m from Lebanon, however, A beautiful country that is facing the same propaganda Iran is facing 🙂

    Reply

    • I’ve never been to Brazil or Lebanon, but I would love to get a chance to visit both places. I hope that you can someday visit the Shrine of Imam Al Rida, Karam!

      Reply

  19. Hi Sylvia, thank you for giving us the chance to be able to exchange some little moment with you, Visiting Iran alone means you are a brave woman. I’m so proud of you and i will be glad to host you the next time you visit Tehran. Thank you.

    Reply

    • Thank you Shamsu, I don’t think I’m particularly brave, but it is nice to hear that! And thanks for your generous hospitality!

      Reply

  20. Hi Silvia, This is Amin from Esfahan, Iran. Had a look through your experience and photos which are totally amazing. Great for you, you’ve been there in the best time, I mean Norouz.
    I am very glad that you are one of those people who ignored gossips and news and traveled to Iran.
    You are always welcomed to Iran. We, Iranians love to welcome you guys from States 🙂

    Khoda-hafez 🙂

    Reply

  21. Hi Silvia,

    I live in Tehran, but traveled to US several times. I am so happy that you’are having good time in Iran, and thanks so much for sharing your experience and pictures.

    Iranians are so hospitable and they love to share their culture:)

    I am not sure if Rana already told you that Esfahan is famous for being half of the world, so you visited one of the best cities of Iran.

    Have fun and keep us tuned.

    Reply

    • Esfahan was like half of the world! And Iranians continue to be so hospitable, even after I’ve left Iran, ha.

      Reply

  23. It so sad that millions of Iranians are exiled and cant visit this great land. Thanks for taking us back home.

    Reply

    • It does seem so unfair that I can visit so easily as a stranger, while so many Iranians cannot. I’m happy that you stopped by to share in my experiences there!

      Reply

  24. Hi, I’m glad you are enjoying your visit to Iran. I’m an Iranian who has lived in the US for a while. Your experience is quite common. I visited Iran a few years and went to Persopolis (a place you must visit if you travel to Shiraz). I met so many Europeans and Americans who had had delightful experiences in Iran.

    As long as you use some common sense, Iran is very safe. People love tourists and will go out of their to be helpful and hospitable. I applaud you for your sense of adventure, easy going, and warm nature. My countrymen would love to get to know you and be your friend.

    Reply

    • You’re so right, Nader! It seems that all foreign tourists I’ve spoken to about Iran only have wonderful things to say about their experiences there.

      Reply

  25. Hey Silvia, hello from Singapore. So glad to hear you’d a wonderful time in Iran. I’ve been there twice in a span of 5 months, and on both trips, I’d encountered nothing but kindness and warmth from the locals. I’ve been sharing with friends about my experiences, dispelling misconceptions while encouraging them to visit and see for themselves.

    I do hope you’d a chance to sample the delightful fereni dessert from Isfahan!

    Enjoy the rest of your trip.

    Reply

    • I’m so happy to hear that, Karen! I’m also hoping to dispel misconceptions and encourage people to go – after visiting, it seems nearly unbelievable that so many tourists are so wary of Iran!

      Reply

      • I do think some of the misconceptions and myths have started going away bit by bit when travellers like you, me and many others share with our friends. And I have seen that amongst some of my friends – and it’s a good feeling!

        Keep your posts going. Safe travels too.

        p.s. if you ever find yourself in Southeast Asia, let me know.

        Reply

        • That’s so great, Karen! I hope I’m having similar success, though who knows. And I’ll be in Chiang Mai for several months starting in June!

          Reply

          • You should definitely check out the other Southeast Asian cool spots like Penang, Palawan (beach resort in the Philippines), Singapore (my home town – happy to bring you around if timing fits), Phnom Penh and tons more.

  27. Iranians are the best people in the world! So peaceful, friendly and honest. And they utterly respect women. You should also come to Serbia. You might also be surprised.

    Reply

  28. This is such a great news and New Year’s present for the tourism industry in Iran to see that people have started visiting Iran and have realized what the realities are.
    I’m so happy for you Silvia that you’ve had a great time in Iran. Happy Noruz!

    Rahman Mehraby
    Destination Iran

    Reply

  29. Silvia, Just discovered your blog and just in time as i’m leaving for Iran in a couple of weeks. I am so excited about my trip, but have been fretting about–of all things–what to wear! Thanks so much for sharing photos. A few years ago I did a solo around-the-world trip which lasted 5 months. I did a blog for our local newspaper; and now, looking back at photos and postings brings back so many amazing memories that are so easy to forget as we plod along with our daily lives. Good luck in your travels. Hope to hear more about them.

    Reply

  30. As an iranian i welcome u and i’m so glad that u visited iran..all tourists r surprised when they visit here and say we thought totally different about it.. us iranians love peace and friendship and having guests..but unfortunatly the media has showed iran’s face totally different from what it really is..I hope u have a splendid time dear and be sure that iranians love guests and will try their best so u can have fun 🙂 <3

    Reply

    • You’re right, I don’t think there’s anything else like Iranian hospitality! I’ve never felt so welcomed. I loved how everyone was eager to show me a good time, and while they knew that many people from my home judged Iran, they still treated me kindly and wanted to disprove those harsh images against Iran. I really hope more people will discover the beauty of Iran!

      Reply

  31. Hi Silvia,

    I hope you have a great time in Iran. I have a few friends which are interested to visit Iran but they told me that To get the visa, US citizens must work in advance with an Iranian travel agency to set up a guided itinerary; only then, that travel agency may apply for a visa authorization number from the Iranian Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

    I have also heard that US citizens are required to travel on tours, either as part of a tour group, or a tailor made individual tour. An exact itinerary, to which you must adhere, is compulsory.

    Just wanted to ask if this was the case for you because I know your answer could help a lot of my friends going to Iran.

    Wish the very bests,
    Ashkan

    Reply

    • Hi Ashkan, what you say about Americans traveling in Iran is all true. I have two passports, as my father is American and my mother is Norwegian, so I was traveling on my Norwegian passport. It is much easier for Norwegians to get visas (I got one on arrival at the airport), and sadly I wouldn’t have been able to have the same trip I did if I were using my American passport. I hope the regulations relax in the future!

      Reply

  32. Thanks for sharing this. I am an iranian student in Germany and I invited a friend of mine to iran for new year. He was also amazed by the fire works of “chahar shanbe sori” and norowz ceremony. He had the same impression about iran. He told me there is a hug gap between real iran and what media shows. He told me he is enjoying every moments and he will probably come back with more friends. Hope more people come and visit iran and the negative bias mind set change overtime.

    Reply

    • I’m so glad your friend had a great experience in Iran! I think most tourists fall in love with Iran and want to bring their friends there, so maybe more people will realize the gap between real iran and its image in the media. I hope so!

      Reply

  33. Thank you so much for wanting to see iran. I am an iranian living/studying in Edinburgh and it gives me such joy to see people take a chance to come and see my country. I’m glad you gad a nice time and that you got to see the atmosphere norooz brings. it’s truly the best part of the year. looking forward to reading more about your travels.
    -cheers

    Reply

  34. thank you Silvia for your kind words about Iran.
    If you want to travel Iran again don’t forget Mashhad. fantastic mountains and historical places.

    Reply

    • I didn’t have a chance to visit Mashhad on this trip, but I will keep it in mind the next time I go to Iran!

      Reply

  35. Hey Silvia! I just found something strong enough to convince my American friend to go to Iran with me 😀 love you haha

    Reply

  37. Hi silvia!When my dad told me about ur blog about ur trip to iran i was really surprised tbh but then i checked it out and your trip sounds perfect.I, Myself am from iran and I’m so happy that u enjoyed your trip. It would have been a good idea if you visited shiraz and yazd as well but you were probably short of time.Anyways, i hope your next trips would be fun. Hope you visit us again:)

    Reply

    • Thanks, Tina! I definitely definitely definitely want to see Shiraz and Yazd still, so I will just have to go back someday 🙂

      Reply

  38. these days, lots of politician says that Iran is dangerous and etc ,,,
    happy to see this positive text about my country…

    Reply

  39. Hey dear Silvia,

    It’s been a great story, I loved it so much, Iran definitely is a misunderstood land in the world by the westerners, specially Americans to be more precise, I’m Iranian myself living in the north part the country ( Mazandaran province )in the coast of the Caspian Sea, the super green part of the country, next time if you would go to Iran please visit northern part of the country and share your stories with us,

    Wish you the best <3
    Navid

    Reply

  41. Dear silvia!
    Thanks for your travel report. As a Kurdish Iranian, your report gave me a good feeling.
    I am faculty member in Ramin Agriculture and natural resources university in south of Iran(Ahvaz). I have a PhD in Geography and Rural Planning. My thesis was about rural tourism in Iran(Oraman region). I will be happy to get to know more about you and help you and your friend in next trips.
    Please contact me via m_ghanian@yahoo.com

    Hope to see you
    Mansour

    Reply

  42. Dear Silvia,
    How are you? hope you re doing fine in our country,
    hope to see you in Tehran and show you some nice places in Tehran,

    (021) 77 50 33 20

    Awaiting your kind reply,
    Peter

    Reply

  43. The hope that the Iranians could easily travel to America and American to Iran. This is the true meaning of civilization and civilized man.
    Hopefully in the future you have to travel to the historic city of Yazd.
    And let us entertain you

    Reply

    • I hope that Americans and Iranians can easily visit each other’s countries soon! I know many Americans who wish to travel to Iran, but now it is so difficult (I was traveling with my Norwegian passport). And I also hope that I can visit Yazd soon!

      Reply

  45. Hi Silvia,

    You can not imagine how much joy i got when i visited your Blog which was amazing and adorable. As an Iranian i admire what you did, and how much brave you are.

    I read all the comments with the answers, I saw how much friendly and kindly you answered all the comments. I wish everybody can stop this illusion and stop all this negative thoughts about Iran and see my country without any preconception.

    I am sure mother nature will protect you in all your travels all over the world.

    Best regards

    Reply

    • Thank you for your sweet message, Ani! It is so sad to me that many people see Iran so negatively, but I hope that this will soon change in the future!

      Reply

  46. Hi Silvia.thank you for introducing us..I know most people have wrong imagination about Iran.Don’t listen to Fox News and dont believe the wrong informations they give… I live in Shiraz where Perspolis and Hafiz’s tombs are located.It’s great if you pay here a visit…

    Reply

    • Ha you are right, people shouldn’t just listen to Fox News! I definitely want to visit Shiraz and Persepolis someday soon!

      Reply

  47. Hello Silvia. I’m glad that you had a wonderful time in Iran. We have over 2,500 years of civilization. We love all people, all over the word.

    Reply

  48. hi

    We are so glad you came to Iran and thank you to wrote all the good things about Iran. All People around the world need to believe we are hospitable. Next time you come with your Friends

    thank you

    مهمون حبیب خداست. تشریف بیارید قدمتون سر چشم قول میدم خوش بگذره

    در پناه خدا

    Reply

    • I wish more people around the world could have a chance to experience Iranian hospitality! Many of my American friends want to visit, but it is also difficult for them (I traveled to Iran on my Norwegian passport). I hope that in the future it will be easier!

      Reply

  49. Hi Silvia

    Would you please thru which website you find your friends in Iran? if you don’t mind please e-mail that web address to me or write it here. Thanks

    Reply

  50. Hi Sylvia,
    I am an Iranian living in Canada and really appreciate your sharing. I really admire your bravitity that led you to this amazing experience despite all warnings you have recieved from different directions. I know people like you would encourage other young and adventurous fellows to travel to Iran, however it would be safer to not trust everyone on your travel path. There are good and bad people every where and bad things might happened too. I suggest if you travel alone make sure you have a safe destination or a friend to guide you. Especially for someone who does not know language would be easy to be noticed and be mocked.

    Reply

    • Thanks, Atoosa, and I think you are right. I was extremely lucky to meet Rana at the beginning of my trip, as she helped me so much and always kept me safe. I would definitely advise travelers to find an Iranian friend to help them! Of course that is true when traveling in most countries where we don’t speak the language.

      Reply

  51. This post is so inspiring! I have honestly never thought about traveling to Iran before, since most Americans just think it’s dangerous. I love going to unique places, maybe I’ll add it to my list!

    Reply

    • So glad to hear Iran made your travel list, Hannah! It definitely deserves a place on it 🙂

      Reply

  52. I said the same to a friend who cycled from Berlin to China though Iran, then he told me they were the nicest people on the whole trip.It opened my mind and since then have met many wonderful people from Iran.

    Reply

    • Actually it was a cyclist going from Europe to China who first told me I really had to visit Iran! And I’m so glad that I took his advice.

      Reply

    • Thanks, Miranda! I would love to go back to Iran some day. I was only there for two weeks, which was definitely too short!

      Reply

  54. What a lovely story! I noticed you mentioned you stayed mostly in hotels and went to meals with people from Couchsurfing. Did you ever stay with Couchsurfing hosts? I might have to make a similar trip now! Hmm, wonder how easy visa-getting is for Canadians…

    Reply

    • Actually it was the opposite – I only stayed in hotels two nights, the rest of the time I was Couchsurfing. In fact, I didn’t actually plan any of my trip around Iran aside from arranging my first hosts in Tehran, because I had heard that there was such a strong network and people would be hospitable enough to arrange places for me to stay around the country, which is exactly what ended up happening!

      I can’t recommend Iran highly enough for tourists! Visas for Americans are incredibly difficult (I was traveling on my Norwegian passport), but hopefully it’s easier for Canadians.

      Reply

  55. Hi Silvia,

    This blog post is incredibly inspirational. It’s great to see a woman traveling alone and having the confidence to go to places Westerners have been taught to fear only to debunk all the stereotypes and preconceptions! You have a knack for storytelling and I really appreciate that you shared your experiences.

    Reply

    • I’m so glad you enjoyed this post, Niko! I was a bit nervous to go to Iran alone, but it ended up being an amazing experience. I wish Westerners weren’t so wary of the country, as it really is such an amazing place to visit!

      Reply

  56. Hi Silvia,I am so glad that you could suppress your fear about Traveling to Iran and you experienced a Wonderful trip .thank you that you write your experience on your web .I am sure that people all over the world will understand that Iran is not a dangerous place and the Iranians are so hospitable.I welcome to all of people who want to travel to Iran and there is no difference where you are from .we love and respect to our guests.خوش آمدید

    Reply

    • I can’t tell you how much I admire and appreciate your hospitality, Fatima! Iranians really are special people.

      Reply

  57. Hey! I think traveling to Iran isn’t that dangerous and bad after all. Considering the rich learning you can gain from the early civilizations, this place is a must in your travel list.

    Reply

  59. Hi,

    I just read this and I really really liked the whole stuff. I’m also Iranian, visiting Tehran for a week. It’s been great so far! I’m glad you enjoyed your time in Iran! Have a great day 🙂

    Reply

  60. Dear Silvia,
    Unfortunately the media around the world talk totally different from whats really going on in our country and cities
    As u mentioned in your blog, people here are so lovely and hospitable, they always like to share the best things they have with their guests , maybe more than ever they have…

    Also its the only country that at the same time U can experience 4 seasons as I know some cities temperature is about 50 centigrade while on other side of country people wear warm clothes to save themselves from the cold weather and snow…

    Thats great U visited my city and I suggest U to come back and visit other citis like Shiraz , Hameden , Yazd and etc. U’ll enjoy it.

    Thank U for the publishing ur experience.

    Shervin

    Reply

  61. Wonderful entry! As an archaeologist, I’m dying to travel around the Near East to see all the incredible historic sites, but as a young woman the thought of doing so alone has always made me nervous, but you’ve definitely made me reconsider that! Hopefully I’ll follow in your footsteps and a be a slightly more intrepid explorer 🙂

    Reply

    • Thanks! I was nervous to go alone as well, but in the end I think I had an easier time being alone, because everyone was so willing to help me. I think a lot of people felt responsible for making sure I was okay, since I was traveling alone.

      Reply

  62. I know so many lovely Persians & would go to Iran on that basis alone.

    As for the safety issue, places often seem scarier from the other side of the world. To keep my perspective in check, I often ask myself how threatening America must seem from the outside — school shootings, gangs, drugs, earthquakes, hurricanes, the odd terrorist attack, not to mention the military zone in Missouri!! Regrettably, shit happens everywhere.

    Reply

  63. Hi, Silvia

    I’m glad you visited iran and proved the aforesaid warnings wrong. I’m sure you had a great time during your trip and are eager to come here again soon. I decided to leave a comment here, to show my support of your act of bravery(!) and invite you and everyone here and everyone you may know to visit my blog on tumblr. it’s all about discovering another world the media tried to close your eyes on! Iran is surely the safest country to live in,in the middle-east.
    Thank you
    here is my blog’s link again : http://www.comeseeiran.tumblr.com

    Reply

  64. I’m going to Iran in 2 days and now my mom decided to call me and ask: “Are you really going to Iran? I’m scared. I’m praying for you to come back safe.” I mean, I really needed to read your post right now. My mom scares me to death. By the way, I’m a 33 year old man, can you believe that? hahaha

    Reply

    • Haha oh no! Luckily my dad had already visited Iran when I was planning my trip there, so he could assure my family that it would be totally safe. Have a wonderful trip! I’m sure you will.

      Reply

  68. This was really lovely to read and exactly the experience I’ve heard from friends that have traveled there – count me among the incredibly jealous, and in need of a second nationality. I’ve experienced similar warmth in Pakistan and Iraq, though and really admire your desire to go to Iran and get behind the headlines and get to know the good people of the world. When I was in Pakistan all of the headlines on CNN were about honor killings in Pakistan; I found it very hard to reconcile with the incredible warmth, and respect, I found there in person. There are little things that floor you, though – like a kid who knew my state because of shootings. Cheers and much respect to you for your trip – I will find a way some day!

    Reply

  69. Your story reminds me of when I moved to Brooklyn. At least 10 people told me it was a bad idea. I ignored them all. I was only there a month before being pulled into an alley by a gang. Then I found out my roommate was mugged at gunpoint and our mutual friend was stabbed and hospitalized. You feel invincible till something bad happens. Listen to common sense.

    Reply

    • That’s such a horrible experience, I’m so sorry you went through that! It’s crazy that Iran has such a terrible reputation, but I would feel so much better wandering around Tehran alone than some parts of Brooklyn!

      Reply

  71. hello dear,i ‘m from iran, from esfahan, it was the best article that i ‘ve ever read, sooo gooood, have a good time, I hope that see u and mina one they, and my name is mina too:))))

    Reply

  72. Hi Silvia,

    My name is Nina Shokouhi and I am a Master student at the NHTV Applied Science University in Breda/ the Netherlands. For my thesis I need your help to fill this survey Because I saw you already visited Iran. The aim of this survey is to measure the perceptions and image that Foreigners/(Especially Dutch people) have towards Iran as a tourist destination. As I am interested in your views, I have developed a short questionnaire, which I would like you to complete. The questionnaire is simple to complete, as it only requires you express your opinion.

    Please fill this survey:
    http://goo.gl/forms/MLJBRTf8Qo

    The results of this research will be combined to examine the different perceptions (images) of Dutch people when thinking of Iran as a tourist destination. I can assure you that all responses will be completely confidential and the results published will be anonymous. It will only take a few minutes but it will make an enormous contribution to my research. Thank you very much in advance for helping with my research project.

    Best Regards,
    Nina Shokouhi

    Reply

  73. Dear Silvia
    everyone around the world know that somehow IRAN is notorious for different things which is actually NOT and you are the one who is proving it … thank you soooooo much for doing what you are doing which is (LOVING) i wish you be blessed even more with all the love you have in your heart.

    Reply

  74. Thanks for sharing your experience!

    I’m fascinated by Iranian culture, that’s why I’m looking forwards to visting it, but the problem is that almost all my friends don’t encourage me to take a trip there, they say it’s unsafe, especially if I go alone. So, reading your experience is “relaxing”, & I just wanna say that inspite of all what they say, it’s not gonna change my love to Iran at all! 🙂

    Reply

    • That’s so great to hear! I understand why people who haven’t been to Iran might be concerned, but I really don’t think they need to be 🙂

      Reply

  75. Hey Silvia

    It’s funny, Iran is a place I just assumed I couldn’t go, not any time soon anyway. But having seen you’ve gone there, and another blogger, Becki at Borders of Adventure, I’ve realised it’s somewhere that actually could be a really interesting place to see, and soon!

    Your couchsurfing hosts sound just lovely. 🙂 I’m going to check out your other posts about what you did and saw right away!

    Martina

    Reply

  76. Hi Mrs. Silva
    I’m really glad that you have good experience of my country back to their homeland
    create massive budget like we are Muslims and we would like to say they’re killers and films like American Vampire blood Eater
    If it is not

    Every tourist who comes to my country wonders for the difference between what is heard and what he sees
    Just like you

    I am your religion but Imam Ali (AS) was the first religious leader telling me
    Between right and wrong is right and wrong, Four Finger
    Right is right and wrong and a lie to say that I heard you say
    (And to listen to the same distance is four Amgsht)

    Thank you
    line id: hf8808
    instagram: farhadfarshi

    Reply

  77. I am an Iranian living in Australia. I haven’t been to Iran for the last 7+ years.

    I see many things have changed during this time in Iran and after reading so many stories from tourists now I can not wait to go there..

    I’m so glad people are realising the beauty of Iranian culture and more and more people are visiting Iran. There is even a growing number of Asians going there, even my Thai friend here wants to visit Iran. You might have seen so many smiles in other countries but how many of them are as genuine as taking you to their house and feed you …

    Go and see this place you wont regret it.

    Reply

    • I agree completely, Peraj! Iran is such a special place to visit, and it’s so wonderful that people are finally starting to realize this!

      Reply

  78. Hi Silvia,
    I am currently traveling in Iran and found that some parts of your blog had been reprinted in the Tehran Times, about 2weeks ago, under the title: “Iran: The world’s next big travel destination?” I was curious to know if they got your agreement and, if so, what were their conditions (they obviously skipped some parts). Thank you for your answer!

    Reply

  79. Hello Silvia! Thanks for this post, when I read this a few months ago I started thinking about coming to Iran; then last month a reporter from my country (Holland) made a well-received documentary about his life there and…Here I am filling in my visa forms!! I will be staying 18 days, and I couldn’t be more excited! Keep up the good work!

    Reply

  80. hi
    thanks for your post about experiences in iran. actually you have said the truth and your decision to come to iran was glorious and respectful.

    we invite other ladies and gentlemen to come to our historic country and enjoy the land marks.

    watch our invitation here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/697063543736784/

    BY THE WAY , i have recently created a group in facebook in purpose of changing the way that people think about iran .

    the address is : https://www.facebook.com/groups/697063543736784/

    i invite you to tell your experiences there.

    and with your permission , i will post some parts of your notes there .

    im waiting u , lady.

    Reply

  82. its really amazing how you could do it
    but i recommend for next trip
    you go to the north of iran to Gilan and Mazandaran,really good places that covered with dense forests, snow-covered mountain

    Reply

  83. Wow – What an incredible story. Iran has always been on my bucket list and now you’ve made me want to go even more. I agree that it’s sad that certain countries, no matter how beautiful they are, get a bad name and people no longer wish to visit – what a waste. Thank you for diving in and sharing your wonderful, positive experience. Hopefully it will make a lot more people want to visit this incredible sounding country (as it has done me!). 🙂

    Reply

    • It really is such a shame when tourists ignore places for no good reason. Iran definitely won’t disappoint if you do make it there someday!

      Reply

  85. Sounds like an amazing adventure. I think you are right about what people perceptions are about Iran and “those countries” I hate when countries get grouped together and especially with a bad name. When we moved to Central America someone told us to be careful because 50 people got shot on a bus in India… wait… what?? It’s just a matter of a “inside-the-box” perspective that people have. It’s kinda sad. So good for you! So glad you are experiencing Iran and sharing it with others!

    Reply

    • Haha oh wow, that’s pretty extreme! Glad you still made it to Central America despite the “scary” tales!

      Reply

  87. Hi Silvia,
    The ancient Iran Empire comprised the area from Egypt to about china and was/also is land of heroes and great scientists but unfortunately the malicious and unfair west media avoid a realistic worldwide attention to Iran.
    I’ve got a new recommendation to you. If you want to see hottest place (desert) in the world plus Shahdad kalouts and also hottest people (in the field of attraction!) please visit Kerman.
    Kerman is the biggest province in Iran and it’s a smaller Iran indeed by four seasons at the same time through north to south. Hot water therapeutic springs ancient gardens and places largest adobe building in the world and many other targets are a tiny part of Kerman.
    About delicious food you haven’t taste anything yet. Just contact me next time to present you my grandma’s cooking to eat your fingers with (it’s just an expression so don’t worry).
    As you mentioned other tourists have similar experiences. Here’s another example. http://en.rocketnews24.com/2012/09/24/ten-reasons-why-iranians-are-the-kindest-people-in-the-world-to-foreign-tourists/

    Reply

  89. Hola, in november we go one girl, three men to Iran. And this to find paragliding places on the mountains. We have some facebook contacts and are gonna meet them.

    Your blog and other blogs just gives us more desire to be there already,

    thanksfor all the info,

    Kath, Stevie, Arnold and Nick

    Reply

  92. That’s so awesome that you had such a great trip! One of my best friends is from Iran… she and her family left because they are Christians and felt it was getting too dangerous to live there. She has nothing but great things to say about the country and is very homesick, but on the other hand she has some very frightening stories about being a woman there. I think I would love to visit someday as long as I am with someone, like her or her family, who I can trust to help me out. 🙂 SO good that you had such a great experience!

    Reply

    • It’s definitely a wonderful place to visit as a tourist, though I can imagine it could be problematic living there. I loved it though!

      Reply

  94. hello my friends, my name is Ali and 26 years old from Iran.
    these days many tourists come to visit Iran but they have some problems, travelling with a tour could be so expensive so it is more economical to visit Iran by urself but there is another problem yet.
    you know what?
    yes, u r right. most of tourists do not know Persian and this is why they can not enjoy the trip, Iran has very kind and hospitable people u should connect with them and talk to them to see how nice r they so it means u need a guide and interpreter but it needs many money.
    so what should u do?
    here I am for u I will arrange ur trip( tickets, cities to visit, reserve hotels, phone card and…)just with 100$ however it depends on how many days u want to stay in Iran and what services do u want just message me we will deal 😉 I am pretty sure it will be more economically for u than other ways. if I were u I would not loss this fantastic chance. if u want to know more just message me: alibigdeli235@yahoo.com

    Reply

  96. So good to hear your nice experience in Iran. Found out about your experience from another website. I m tour guide in Iran and always get delighted to hear such stories. Safe trips.

    Reply

  97. I invite you to Iran again :D.
    i like to invite foreigners to my country.
    we are hospitable and Happy to contact with foreigners.
    if Someone like travel to Iran, can contact with me by my email or my mobile:
    +989393448086
    this is not for Financial interests!!!
    excuse me for my weak writing in English!!!

    Reply

  98. Hi Silvia
    we’re really pleased that u traveled to Iran and enjoyed it…
    how did u see safety and security of Iran?
    we aim to creat a positive image of Iran in all around the world

    Reply

  100. dear silvia,hi
    thanks for your recommendation,i wish everyone could visit iran.i promise you’ll lose nothing.iran is a beautiful country and has a good climate.hospitable people and really good grandmoms;D.
    if you decided to come here,i recommend you to come to our city “SAVEH”,the homeland of pomegranate,the heaven fruit(as in quran).wish you a good time.bye

    Reply

  101. What a great post and hats off to your courage to travel to Iran solo. I really hope that I find that courage soon. I so wish to be there and explore The mosques, landscape and relish Persian delicacies.

    Reply

  102. You explain your two weeks trip in Iran very interesting. I am Iranian and all of us like to be the host of foreign traveler to have a chance to change their view about Iran and Iranian and share the Iran beauties with them.
    we have a travel website:
    iranstravel.com
    and we hope to be a good host for iran traveler.
    we wish to visit you in Iran for a second time,

    Reply

  104. Hi honey…
    Im an iranian girl from tehran.
    I dont know why but all the media all over the world is against iran.
    We are living like every where…we are calm and safe….
    We love each other…
    But our enemy bother us .he likes us to be seprated.dosnt like to see us together.but he is in mistake!!
    We never obey their orders….
    But we love every one who love us…
    We host every one…its our religen.

    Reply

  106. Hey Silvia ,

    Which food did you like the most there ?
    We have so many great foods . My personal favorites are Ghorme Sabzi & Dizi ( Also known as Ab Gosht ) . Next time you decided to travel to Iran , include Kish Island to your program .

    Cheers ,

    Reply

      • Hi Silvia
        first of all sorry for my english!
        I am so happy that you enjoyed in my country.
        I am living in north of iran(south of caspian sea). please look for it in Google.Babolsar is realy a modern and lovely city in the middle east.hope to see you and your friend there as soon as.
        By the way thanks for your ragarding about Iranian.

        Reply

  107. Hi silvia . I got really happy when I understand that you came to Iran . And the things you said about the people and country . I like all the people around the world but I cant understand why some people hate the people in Iran and perfer to visit other countries
    Why some people thinks that visiting this country alone is dangrous?!!!!
    I live in Rasht and Im studing English launguage since I was a child
    I think you are a friendly girl . And maybe see you in a future .

    Reply

  108. Dear silvia
    Thanks a lot about your nice story, we invited you again to visit north of Iran. Really Iran have a nice people and I hope all the world people can come to my great country.

    Reply

  109. Hi Silvia,

    I live in US. As an Iranian, I appreciate your travel to my country when few people have a fair judgment about this country! I hope that one day this country will get back its great reputations and its people will enjoy hosting guests from all around the worlds.

    Thank you for selecting Iran!
    Mani

    Reply

  110. Thanks for he great post, little by little people are exploring this beautiful county with all it’s goodies. Well, as all the travelers experienced, what you see/hear from the media is totally opposite of what you experience in reality.
    Couch surfing is becoming a safe and popular way to travel, we lost to host you guys.
    Cheers.

    Reply

  112. hi
    my name is reza and i forme tehran
    if anybody want come to beautiful iran i can help
    for more info +980921131748

    Reply

  113. Hi,

    I read your wonderful experience as single woman in Iran. It’s amazing. But could I ask you why didn’t you visit north west of Iran? I mean some cities including Tabriz, Ardabil and Sarrien (with incredible spa, mountains and environment). In summer, this location of Iran is attractive. Owing to experiencing cool weather in summer.

    Reply

  115. I am really glad to find somebody who has touched the beauty of Iran personally and directly. Thanks for sharing your idea about my country.
    I really like to share your website address on my lnstagram page.

    Reply

  116. Hi!
    (I cant speak English vey well)
    Don’t be scare! We are Human and we don’t Eat you!
    come to our country and see it! That change Your mind!
    🙂
    Some of Buildings have an interesting tip.
    The Iranian Architects Built that buildings with their imaginary from Heaven!
    some pics:
    http://www.beytoote.com/images/stories/iran/iranian-tourist-attractions13.jpg
    http://www.talab.ir/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/523277302-talab-ir.jpg
    http://www.nividar.com/full/3927e67ae2155a59edcb4038ea23158530082b12.jpg
    http://images.kojaro.com/2015/07/sheikh_lotfollah_mosque_3_by_rad_19.jpg
    http://orujtravel.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Eram-Garden-14.jpg

    Reply

  117. Hi,love u Silvia cuz u showed the real us u dont know how much i got sad when i found out we are known as a bad people its unfair its too late to post a comment just thank u

    ممنون

    Reply

  118. Hi.
    I really appreciate that you came visiting Iran and written down your experiences and share them to us
    and all around the world.
    It make me so happy that you had a good time here and you enjoyed that:-)

    Also if you have it in your mind that i can help you,i welcome you warmly and here is my email address:
    bghad1 at gmail.com

    thanks again and hope to see you 🙂

    Reply

  119. Hi Silvia , I’m an Iranian from Tehran , I’s so glad to see your blog , I proud myself that you came to Iran and enjoyed to visit my country. I’m sure that you know we are very hospitable people so I will be very happy if you coming again to Iran and i hope to see you this time for welcoing and Companionship with you.

    Reply

  120. Hi Silvia !

    I read your blog and i get really happy to see someone like you who took the opportunity to visit Iran, i hope to see more people one day who would as Iranians themselves love to have tourists visiting. Iran is not so dangerous as the media can write about it sometimes. Hope you had a great time there and it was really nice to hear that you liked it.

    Reply

  121. Dear Silvia
    as an Iranian im so happy that you had good experience in Iran im mansour from Isfahan and i hope i can be a good host for all foreigner in Iran especially Iran
    please contact me by email

    Reply

  123. Dear silvia I hope u real my massage completely

    First I thank u for creating a blog like this for my country
    Secondly im grateful that u visit my city (esfahan)
    Thirldly I wana say that people like u , when they visit iran they just go some especial places like masjed jameh or ….
    But if u have a kind of friend in the country u wana visit u can enjot it a lot more.
    I read ur blog and I feel the interest in u and ur writing.
    I like to communicate with u to help others to enjoy more and loke to talk u to know more about ur country and also tell more about my country and mostly about esfahan.

    Hope u email me to talk more
    Thanx for reading

    Reply

  125. Fantastic! I’m so thrilled when I hear about people traveling to my country and experiencing the hospitality of the Persians! I want, so desperately, to go there and visit every single city!

    Reply

  126. Hey Silvia.
    Did you travel Iran again?
    If not you should see Shiraz.
    I’m from Shiraz and I promise you will have a great time in Shiraz.
    E-mail me if you need any help;)
    good luck and enjoy our country<3

    Reply

  127. Just back from my solo traveling to Morocco and have a plan to go somewhere next year. Reading your blog, and Iran seems worth to be visited.

    I’m a Indonesian Muslim but I’m not wearing hejab/veil to cover my hair.
    Will get more information about this city. Tehran,as you visited it in 2014.

    Your blog helps a lot!

    Thank you,

    Reply

  131. Hi Silvia!
    Iran has been on my list, possibly this year or next. You said you traveled on your Norwegian passport instead of your American passport. Why? Did you feel it was easier that way or safer? I’m looking at MIR, a tour company with an office in Seattle, WA. I am assuming that they can facilitate everything for an American. Is it true that the infrastructure in Iran is poor? How are the hotels? Do they even have a 5-star hotel in the most visited places? Your input is valuable and much appreciated. Thank you.

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    • When I went Americans couldn’t travel independently (without a tour), whereas Norwegians could simply get a visa on arrival at the airport. But if you’re going through a tour company then you should be fine on a US passport! The hotels are of very high standards and I didn’t see any infrastructure problems. You can certainly have a luxury holiday in Iran if you want! I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

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  133. Hello Silvia. I’m so glad hear that you had a nice experience in Iran. I hope you have been planning to come to Iran again.

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  136. Hi Silvia I loved reading this Iran sounds amazing ! I am going to be travelling there in about December of this year is your friend Mina on couch surfing? Do you know how I would be able to find her as staying at her house sounds like such an incredible experience thanks and good travels! 🙂 xxxx

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    • She’s actually no longer living in Tehran, but I’m sure there are lots of potential hosts on Couchsurfing!

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  137. Hi Silvia,

    just read your article – encouraged me to visit on my own as I was planning to convince a male friend to go with me.
    Do you mind sharing your route and recommendations of what to visit? ‘Do’s and ‘don’t’s? traveling and paying for services? I can’t decide the length of the trip but I suppose going for less than two weeks is pointless? Also, I’m not willing to hire a guide because that turns it into a touristy experience and not keen on having a stranger tagging along. at the same time I want to get out of it as much as possible and see all the untouched beauties that it no doubt has!! getting an advice from someone who’s been and seen would be amazing!
    thank you in advance!

    Reply

    • I think any amount of time is worthwhile, though two weeks was a nice length of time. Did you read all my blog posts about Iran? You can find my favorite destinations and top tips there 🙂

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      • hey, thanks! no, I made an assumption (falsely?) that it was the only post – I’ll have a read! thank you 🙂

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  139. Hi Silvia,

    I read your posts prior to my trip to Iran. I just finished three weeks there and found the experience to be just like you say. The people are very friendly and accommodating. Your blog gave me a lot of confidence that travelling Iran was going to be safe and awesome.

    I am blogging about my time in Iran. Just finished writing about the Pink Mosque and also Shah Cheragh down in Shiraz. Did you visit Shiraz? I didn’t see you write about.

    Hayden

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  141. Great post! I got back from backpacking in Iran several weeks ago and now my friends are sending me photos of Nowruz. I wish I stayed a little longer to celebrate Nowruz. Reading your post amplifies that feeling:P

    Next time you should visit Ghalat. A small historical town close to Shiraz. I had some truly ncredible days there!

    You said you visited a town close to the Iraqi border, but I recently visited Iraqi Kurdistan! If you like you can read about it in my blog nextleveltravels.com.

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  142. You are a real traveler!Is there a place that you havent visited?:)))))))
    Hope to joy your trips.come back to Iran soon!
    cheers

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  145. And some of us find traveling with tours/babysitters to ruin the entire trip.You are very privileged to have a duel passport for 2 reasons
    1. You can live in a rich country with good benefits like Norway. America is 100 years behind on everything and I no longer wish to live there but am stuck as Europe does not want us to live in a civil country.

    2. You can go to Iran without a humiliation guide.

    American backpackers are more-or-less not allowed in Iran but Iranians do not need guides to got to US, UK or Canada. I am on 15-20 dollar budget a day. The tour will not allow this and it is making me very angry. 200 for a visa, 2000 for a guide. Well, that is 4 or 5 months of spending in Georgia,Armenia and Turkey. Until Iran stops with such a stupid, ridiculous law, only the ultra wealthy Americans will go.

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  146. You are a real traveler, I got back from backpacking in Iran several weeks ago and now my friends are sending me photos of Nowruz and it is very helpful, thanks for sharing.

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  149. Hi Silvia i’m Raya from Iran, Tehran. I’m really happy that you came to my country and hope you enjoyed it.I offer you to visit Shiraz and Yazd they are really Beautiful.

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  158. what about Qazvin and its beautiful valley(valley of assassins)
    I would be more than happy to help them in this adventure . like we always say Taste Iran With locals !

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  159. Hi my name is Majid Hatami
    I live in Yazd that is registered as the first traditional city of Iran.
    I want to be a tour guide so I have lots of questions from your experiences of traveling to Iran.
    Could you please send me your email address?
    Thanks and best regards

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  164. Hi Silvia, I’m so excited to see that you have had such a wonderful time in my country. Iranians are truly kind and lovely people.
    By the way I’ll be happy to spend time with tourists in Tehran and show them around. Send me an email anytime you would like see the beautiful Tehran.
    Trust me…you’re gonna have so much fun here.

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  165. The image of tourism in Iran has changed considerably in recent years
    Iran has opened its tourist facilities to the people of the world
    So to discover the new Iran
    You must return to the historical land of Iran

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  169. There always seems to be such a stigma around middle eastern countries isnt there! Its sad a country and their people et judged by actions of a few extremists.
    It looks like you had a great time thanks for sharing!

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  170. Hi Silvia-
    I have a clothing question…
    Believe it or not I don’t really enjoy shopping on vacation, (takes time from more interesting things) but wondering if it makes sense (from practical, financial standpoint) to buy a warm winter jacket once we arrive in Oslo. Are there still a good selection/prices after the holidays? I love the idea of having a beautiful Scandinavian jacket as a souvenir, but then again worry about not finding the right thing and being “stuck”…We are planning 4 days in Oslo then 3 in Abisko and 5 in Stockholm. Any sure fire shopping destinations in Oslo you could suggest for another former “Worcester-ite”? Takk skal du ha!

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  171. Hi mrs silvia…happy new year
    i became so glad that you was satisfi from travel to iran and i am hopeful most people travel to iran and know my country…i want the world’s people to know that my country is not a dangerous place and iranian people are not dangerous people…thank you for share this post. excuse me if i had mistake in write english 🙁 i am 20 years old boy from qom city and i am mussalman and i have wish health and happiness for you and all of the good people like you in the world. 😉

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  172. Great story! Thanks for sharing!! Leaving for 4 weeks in two days, can’t wait!! I had one question though (ok actually like 300 but ok): what where your criteria for couch surfing hosts? Would you stay with guys as well? How did you select them? Also solo female traveller btw 🙂

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    • When I travel alone I only stay with women, and only ones who have at least 5 reviews. I have friends that don’t mind staying alone with guys, but personally I feel safer with women and then it avoids any misunderstandings about the nature of the visit, haha.

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  173. Hi Silvia,

    I am an Italian male aged 28 living in the UK . I am planning to visit Iran for 14 days in may and this would be my very first solo trip!!!! I have been backpacking through the balcans before with my ex-girlfriend (took some inspiration from your blog which I found fantastic and extremley helpful).

    I am really excited, but a bit worried at the same time. As Iran is still not very turistic, indications are only given in persian ecc. do you think it would be a suitable destination as first solo travel experience?

    Thank you very much and congratulations for you blog!

    Federico

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  176. really impressed to see that a women which is so pretty is exploring the world and iran like countries which is already declared as the desputed one i really want to thanks the author and want o thank her personally ..i really her passion

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  177. Hi i’m arash a 18yo teenage from tehran
    Got so happy when i reallized that you’ve liked my country and my city or the people here . i wish the other people all over the world change their mind about us and remove all those negetive thoughts about us cause “we are not the same as the government” at all.
    I wish i could look at my city and all those streets and museums the same way as you did
    💜

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  178. I’m an Iranian living in California. This was seriously the most accurate blog post about traveling to Iran which I’ve come across so far. Thanks for being honest.

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  180. Just a word of advice to all single females who intend to travel alone. Doesn’t matter which country you’re travelling to, always make sure you’re taking extra care and never go to quiet places on your own unless you’re with a local person – Although, Iran is a lot safer than most other countries of the world, but there have been cases of acid been poured on some females in places such as Isfahan – I’m sure similar cases have been reported in other parts of the world, I know it’s happened in the UK as well. So take all the necessary precautions when you travel to any spots that you’re not familiar with and its culture and its people are new to you.

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  181. I’m Sajad from Iran. first of all, thanks Silivia for giving nice views of our country and inviting others to travel to.
    You are welcome!
    We, as ordinary people should not let media fool us about realities. politicians and their owned media try to give an image of others, that they(politicians) like.
    Maybe a minority in your country or ours prefer to proceed their interests about political issues. but, the reality is that Iranians and Amaricans(and any other nations in the world) are bros and friends and have a lot of history, emotions and … in common and we , as Iranians, love all the world as human beings.
    Some times I review some Amarican including newspapers, news sites and etc. and surprisingly I see some wrong and weired info about Iran in them (even in the most formal ones!), some of this wrong info is provided intentionaly for political purposes and some simply is wrong because of lack of correct research. of course we see thses in some Iranian media too, in opposite direction!
    BUT!
    These is not the reality at all!!! as Silivia did, we have to break these walls and see the world as it really is (by traveling and researching more and correctly)
    // IN HOPE OF A MORE PEACEFUL WORLD
    (Excuse me for my poor English 🙂 , my dear friends)

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  183. Great blog post. I recently did a solo road trip in my Maruti Swift from Pune to Tiruvannamalai. It was a great experience with a few interesting adventures as well……

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  185. it is great. I was searching for another thing in the internet and I visited you’re blog. I’m from IRAN- TABRIZ. If you come to IRAN again pleas come to TABRIZ. You’re blog is very useful and so nice. thank you

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  203. Hey good to see you were a full time Nomad. Here is Nomads from India. Take a look at our site and do let us know if you plan to travel to India sometime. We would love to accompany you.

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  205. hello miss silvia . i published your travel diary in to my blog with linking to your post . you are so famous between us:)
    iranian news sites had published your posts many times !!

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  214. Iran is a wonderful country for all nations to visit. Whether you’re interested in going to cultural and historical places, try local food, shopping, or visiting new people, the country is one of the best places for all of these. Honestly speaking, the country offers all of these in every corner of it to make for one incredible experience

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  254. Silvia Wow, i wish i have the courage to go iran by myself.

    your journey through Iran sounds both incredibly adventurous and eye-opening! It’s inspiring to see you embracing the rich history, diverse landscapes, and vibrant traditions of Persia. Traveling solo can be daunting, especially in a place with so many differing opinions, but your courage shines through. Experiencing the Persian New Year celebrations firsthand must be both thrilling and surreal.

    i have an Iranian friend who was staying in cebu philippines since 2016. he was a pilot, very nice person too..

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