Did I ever tell you guys about the time I randomly ended up in South Korea?
It was towards the end of my second year living in Japan and one of my fellow JET teachers had just lost his job and wanted to bring his two cats back with him to the U.S. He told me this on a Friday afternoon, asking if I might be able to take a few days off work to fly to Los Angeles with him on Wednesday, returning to Japan on Sunday.
Apparently Korean Air only lets you bring one cat per passenger, so he needed another human to fly with them. He’d of course pay for my flight, which included two nights in L.A. and a night in Seoul, and he’d give me money for a nice hotel room as well. Plus I’d get to save one of his cats!
Uh, free trip somewhere? Absolutely! And while this was before Dan had brainwashed me into loving cats, having some furry friends to play with definitely made the long flight more bearable and I highly recommend always flying with a cat or two (except you’re only allowed one).
I saved the hotel money and stayed at a cheap hostel instead so that I could buy all the Western sized clothes, cheese, and Cheerios I could get my hands on, and explored Santa Monica and Hollywood like a true tourist. And then I headed to Seoul, where I stayed with a family friend who sweetly showed me around the South Korean capital.
Um guys, did you know that Seoul is absolutely gorgeous? Somehow I had missed that memo, but oh my goodness, I fell for that city quickly. The delicious food might have helped a bit with that. My second recommendation of the day: if you haven’t been to Seoul yet, go.
But this blog post isn’t about Seoul, or even South Korea. It’s about that other Korea, the one that I, along with most other travelers out there, haven’t been to. Luckily my new blogging bff Chris has been, and today he’s here to tell us all about it!
The Country
North Korea
Why You Need to Visit
Just because it’s North Korea and you should see what it’s all about.
North Korea is a strange country, the only other country to get close is Turkmenistan. There’s no easy way to describe the country, really. While the capital of Pyongyang is actually pretty beautiful and a well keep city with a lot of green areas, NICE cars, and some very impressive architecture, the countryside is like going 50 years back in time. And everything is about Kim Jong Un, his father Kim Jong Il and his grandfather, Kim Il-sung. Everything.
What You Need to See
I’m not a museum person, but the museums in North Korea are freaking impressive, even compared to Western standards. Everything is big, a lot of information is in English, and of course there’s a lot of propaganda. Aside from museums North Korea also has some impressive nature and world class architecture.
If you ask nicely can you visit a local tailor and get a tailor made North Korean suit. (I got one.)
How to Get Around
The only option is to go with your local guide, but since I went with a Chinese company I had much more freedom than people going with European/Western companies. I could go more or less wherever I wanted and take photos of everything.
Where to Stay
There’s only one hotel that accepts foreigners, so you don’t exactly have options here!
How to Budget
I went with a local Chinese company, I stayed in the same hotel as European/Western companies, ate in the same restaurants, and saw the same things, with the only difference being that I had “freedom” in North Korea and my own personal guide.
European/Western companies have 1 – 2 guides and a guard that looks after you and you have a lot of restrictions. But best of all I only payed 25% of what an international company charges for the trip!
What to Eat
You don’t get many food options in North Korea. You get the same food as in South Korea, like Korean BBQ, hot pot and A LOT of kimchi, and the local beer is ok.
BUT you’ll also get offered to try DOG if you want.
What do you think? Do you want to visit North Korea?
About the author:
Born and raised in Norway in 1988, Christian never had interests in school or study and was always the kid that had to push the limits to see how far he could go when he was young.
And that mentality has stuck with him now on his travels. He gets extremely bored staying at tourist places, and can instead be found exploring remote corners of the world. For Christian, staying at a tourist beach in Thailand is pure torture.
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Elizabeth says
North Korea fascinates me. The blog Wait But Why did an amazing post on the country and there are some great TED talks by North Korean refugees available online.
Christian, I’m interested in visiting North Korea in the future – what was the name of the Chinese company you went with and how did you get connected with them?
Rachel says
Some great tips here, using a Chinese tour sounds like a great way of getting in. I think I’d throttle someone though if they asked if I wanted to eat dog, grrrrrrrrrr! Maybe I shouldn’t go….
Silvia, you flew with a cat. Oh my goodness, on your lap? If this is indeed the case then I need to fly everywhere with Korean Air (and get myself a cat).
Silvia says
Haha when I was working with Burmese refugees in Thailand one day they were SO excited because we were going to have a fancy lunch with meat(!!) and they insisted on serving me first and… it was dog. I looove dogs but felt so bad about their excitement so I ate a tiny bit of it, and nearly cried. The cats were in little carriers, but we took them out onto our laps a few times during the flight. So go get that cat!
Nick @ concrete and kitsch says
I went to North Korea in 2006, and I don’t think I’d go again. I understand that travel, in general, is a positive thing, and very necessary for people in some places to gain a broader awareness of the world around them. This is especially true in places like Iran and Russia, as there are some ingrained beliefs about Westerners that need to be dismantled, and tourist diplomacy is maybe the most accessible way to do this. Or necessary for Americans, as in, get out of the country and learn about other people.
BUT, I think that travel to North Korea today is unproductive and shouldn’t be done the way it is possible to today. Money gets funneled right to the regime which uses that money to fund a monstrous propaganda and gulag machine. The only people tourists can talk to on such trips are carefully selected, and not people living in the real hardship that is life in the DPRK today.
I dunno, I have lots and lots of thoughts about tourism in North Korea. I’d LOVE to go back, especially to run the marathon there, but couldn’t in good conscience do so until things change for the better.
Silvia says
To be honest I feel really similarly, Nick. A few of my friends in Japan went on tours there and felt very conflicted about that decision afterwards – though going with a Chinese company does at least seem to offer a bit more freedom. But, I do love reading accounts of people going – I think it’s a great way of humanizing the problems in North Korea, reminding us that actual people live there, instead of just ignoring it (which tends to happen if you don’t have these personal stories). But I probably won’t be going anytime soon. I don’t know, boycotting countries is a tough topic because I totally get not wanting to support a government, especially if you’re not going to see the reality of a place, but that can also lead to our just blocking out their existence. Well, except where Antarctica is concerned – I think that’s the one place that I would just flat out refuse to visit because it only does harm.
Lauren Lalicon says
I love the Off The Path series! It gives me a new perspective on countries that I otherwise would have never considered visiting. I feel like I would like to visit North Korea for the novelty of it, to see for myself how saturated the country is in propaganda, but because the country is structured to create an illusion that North Korea is a thriving country, I don’t know if it would be worth it, especially considering how human rights violations, the corruption, the internment camps, etc. It’s still fascinating to hear stories about trips to North Korea though. There’s this fantastic graphic novel by Guy Delisle called Pyongyang: A Journey in North Korea that describes his trip to the country.
Silvia says
I’m so glad you’re enjoying the series! And I completely agree – for now I am happy just reading accounts of trips to North Korea instead of going myself. I’ll definitely check out that novel!
Jenia says
I am fascinated by North Korea! I would love to travel there one day, although I am undecided on how I feel about the ethics of the whole thing, since traveling there is one of the sources to shore up government’s foreign exchange reserves and cash purse. But still, I avidly read all the reports!
Silvia says
It is a tough decision, but like you said, I’m glad that there are people going there and writing about it at least!
Mirøslav Hristøff says
I’ve always been interested in North Korea. I’ve watched several documentary movies about the country and still I can’t stop asking myself – How it is possible ti live in a place like this? Although I was born in a post communistic country still I don’t get it. Life seems so extreme there.
Silvia says
It really does seem so extreme and hard to empathize with because it’s just so foreign.
Emily says
North Korea is so fascinating. I don’t think I’ll ever find myself there but I love these inside looks from other (more brave) travelers.
Silvia says
It is so interesting to get a peek into North Korea.
kami says
North Korea has been on the very top of my bucket list for years and I will get there eventually, I’m sure of that!!
Silvia says
And I’m sure that I’ll love reading about your time there when you do go!
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
I love this article! North Korea is highly on my list, for quite a few years already because it is totally different than (almost) every other country in the world plus because of its close proximity to China. But like most people who have been there I thought about going to North Korea with a tour company like Koryo tours. I didn’t know that it is possible to go there with a private guide and that it is even cheaper than travelling with a tour company.
I would love to get there in the (near) future and I would be very interested to find out which Chinese company you used, Christian?
Joella says
It’s always so interesting to hear about people visiting North Korea. Thanks for sharing your trip, Christian.
I kind of agree with Nick’s comments above. I’ve debated going before but in the end I decided not to for the reasons he gave- I would feel like my money was being used to support the regime as you are not free to go about my yourself. I didn’t agree with the politics in China either, but felt I could spend my money freely to support who I wished.
On the other hand though- going on these tours does provide jobs and some contact with the outside world to some people living there. I know the tour guides there in NK take their jobs very seriously and it’s important to them. I definitely think everyone should make up their own mind- I can understand arguments for and against going.
Interestingly- my friend who is blonde and light skinned but can speak Korean almost fluently went on a tour and it was a very interesting experience for him. Because no one expected him to speak Korean he was privy to a few things others might not be and he was certain that a lot of the things they saw were “set ups”.
Joella says
PS- Love that you loved your brief visit to Seoul! I love it there. 🙂
Silvia says
I agree with you guys as well. A few of my friends in Japan went to North Korea and ended up feeling iffy about it. I’m pretty torn about it really, so for now I’m happy to just read other people’s accounts of their visits there. But I am happy that there are some people going and writing about it. Even if their experiences of the country aren’t necessarily authentic, they still make North Korea seem more real in a way, instead of just a bizarre country we sort of just ignore. It sounds like if I do want to go someday I’ll have to learn Korean first!
Meghan says
What an interesting post! I love that you got to travel in service of transporting a cat! I need to find a similar deal because surely free travel and cat companionship is a win-win!
Silvia says
It was such a bizarre trip, but definitely fun! If only flying cats around the world were a real gig, haha.
Victoria@ The British Berliner says
I would want to visit North Korea if I got the chance, but then I’m weird like that! I live in Berlin and understand well the conflicts of “doing business” with a communist state however, it has to be an individual decision.
I’d want to go to get a glimpse of that reality and in reverse, they get a glimpse of ours. How do you think people who lived in East Germany under strict regulations were able to not lose hope? By seeing West Berliners come into “the country” and who “accidentally” left items of clothing, food, & music. They were even able to lay their hands on punk stuff and rock n’ roll!
p.s. We recently adopted two twin kittens from the animal shelter. I love cats!
Silvia says
That’s a really good point, even somewhat artificial interaction is way better than never seeing foreigners ever! I would love to read about your time in North Korea if you go 🙂
Megan Indoe says
We were intrigued by the idea of doing a tour in North Korea but realized it would mostly be for bragging rights to say we’ve actually been there. Like others on this comment thread we were conflicted with what we were actually funding if we chose to ever do the tour. Not only that, but we like to explore places and try to shy away from tour groups because we like to do our own thing for the most part. I don’t think we would like being told everything we are allowed to do and see. I still love reading about people who do go though.
Silvia says
Yeah, I definitely understand those feelings! It is interesting that taking a Chinese tour you have a lot more flexibility, but going just for bragging rights is always a bad sign, haha.
Yosemite says
I don’t know how but somehow I just ended up on this post, and I have to say I’m extremely offended that you wrote an entire post about my motherland and never even mentioned me. And also ughhhhh cats