My favorite stop along the Trans-Siberian route isn’t actually on the Trans-Siberian train line. We had to switch trains in the middle of the night to go up to Tomsk, something that might have seemed like a hassle had Tomsk not turned out to be my favorite city not only in Siberia, but in all of Russia.
In fact visiting Tomsk probably ended up being one of the highlights of my entire six month journey from Asia to Europe, and I think this Tomsk travel blog will show you just why.
At over 400 years old, Tomsk is one of the oldest cities in Siberia, which means that instead of only uniform Soviet architecture, the city is also full of traditional “gingerbread” style wooden houses.
I really loved that Tomsk only has 500,000 inhabitants and is such an easily walkable city. With several universities, Tomsk is also full of students, which gives the city a great energy. But what I most loved about Tomsk was that Aleksey lives there!
I met Aleksey in Israel through Couchsurfing, so when I realized that we’d be passing nearby his hometown of Tomsk I insisted that we make a detour to visit him. Because Aleksey is the coolest.
Aleksey gave us a great tour of Tomsk, and his enthusiasm for his city was definitely contagious.
We were also really lucky with the weather in Tomsk. It snowed the day we arrived (bizarrely that was our first day in Siberia without perfectly clear skies) and then the sun came out to make all the freshly fallen snow sparkle! I mean, it was really cold – I think around -25°C – but I didn’t really mind because it felt so perfectly Siberian!
Tomsk in winter is just so magical, and while I definitely plan to visit Tomsk in the summer as well, I’m really glad my first trip here was a frosty one.
And then something super exciting happened! Remember when Dan and I found the ice slides in Ulan-Ude but didn’t have time to try them out? It was pretty devastating (I might have toned down my disappointment when I wrote about it, because I like to play it super cool on this blog). But then we found some in Tomsk! Imagine our squeals.
Also, are these not the prettiest ice sculptures you ever did see? I guess it shouldn’t come as a surprise that Siberians are so skilled with ice.
Aleksey also invited us out to his friend’s birthday celebration, which taught me some things about Russian culture. Like when Dan ordered a shot of vodka for the birthday girl and she looked at it in horror, shaking her head saying she simply couldn’t drink vodka. And then everyone else refused to drink it as well, until finally one of the guys took it, but not without a big shudder. Way to defy stereotypes, Russians!
We ended the night at someone’s apartment talking about movies, politics, and poetry. Well, the Russians talked about poetry, and stared in disbelief when Dan and I admitted that neither of us has read any Pushkin. Sorry, Russia!
Now, thanks to Tomsk, Dan and I are already planning our next Russian adventure – hopefully in the summertime (though sadly not this summer). I just think Tomsk would be magical in the summer. Well really, I think it’s probably magical anytime of year. But Russians keep on telling us to visit Russian in the summer, so I think we definitely will need to return here then.
Where to stay in Tomsk
We stayed with Aleksey, but since I know a lot of you aren’t so into Couchsurfing I made sure to ask him for some other accommodation in Tomsk as well.
Best luxury hotels Tomsk
If you want a luxury hotel in Tomsk, stay at the Magistrat Hotel in the city center. It’s in a grand building and very luxurious, while still being quite good value. Aleksey said that this is the place to stay when you come to Tomsk! Check current rates and availability here
Best mid-range hotels Tomsk
If you’re on a smaller budget, then you should definitely stay at Abazhur Hotel, located in an beautiful old Russian wooden house in the center of town. This hotel has tons of character, lovely clean rooms, and is amazing value. Check current rates and availability here
Best Tomsk hostels
Alesksey recommended two hostels:
The Eco Hostel is supposedly the best hostel in Tomsk. It’s right by the river, the staff is amazing, and the beds have curtains for added privacy. They also have all female or male dorms, and private rooms. Check current rates and availability here
Nice Hostel is also very, well, nice. They also have beds with curtains, a vibrant and clean design, and the all male/female dorms are the same price as mixed dorms (and slightly cheaper than Eco Hostel). Aleksey said that personal he would choose Eco Hostel, but if you’re on a tiny budget then Nice Hostel is also good. Check current rates and availability here
Read more about traveling the Trans-Siberian
Read about my other stops along the Trans-Siberian railroad through Russian here
Read about my time in Mongolia, and my trip from Beijing to Mongolia here
Read “Standing on the Deepest Lake in the World” here
When was the last time you fell in love with a new city?
Just so you know, the hotel links are affiliate links, so if you book these or any hotels through my links I’ll earn a small commission, at no extra expense to you – this helps cover the cost of running my site. Thanks, guys!
jameela deen says
Wow the ice sculptures and slides look incredible. How was your backside after all the sliding? Can’t imagine the cold… brrrr let’s just say I’m a ‘like it hot’ kinda girl and I much prefer the 35 degrees we’re having today in Jeddah. On the other hand we can’t get ice sculptures here 🙁
Silvia says
Haha it was pretty cold on the slides – most people slid down them on their feet instead of bottom. But whoa, I’d definitely prefer it over 35 degrees!!
Polly says
So funny to me as all the Russians I know (ESPECIALLY the ones from Tomsk) are always like… eh… Tomsk. Guess that makes sense as they were all the people who escaped to Moscow from Siberia!
Silvia says
That is awesome, because people we talked to in Tomsk were all really negative about Moscow. It’s good to know everyone really appreciates their homes at least! (But seriously, Tomsk is amaaazing.)
Jo-Anne says
Bloody awesome photos, really makes one want to visit there just to see these wonderful things
Silvia says
I’m still daydreaming about Tomsk – definitely worth a visit!
Justine says
Yay, I’m glad you included the map to track where you’ve been. Because sadly, my geography skills are not up to snuff for that part of the world. Anyway, I love this city already! How amazing that it has such old (and cute) buildings. And very cool that you were able to meet up with your old friend there. There’s no better way to get to a know a city than through someone who lives there. Ahaha, I love that everyone shuttered at the thought of taking a shot of vodka. How disappointing! But the fact that the night ended discussing politics and poetry. That seems so perfectly Russian 🙂
Silvia says
Haha honestly I need the map for myself too, to track exactly where in Russia I went. That country is huge!! I was pretty surprised at the hate towards vodka, but you’re right, the discussions of politics and poetry definitely proved that they were in fact Russian. I love how artsy and romantic so many Russians seem to be!
Rachel says
Woah, that slide looks awesome! And how pretty is Tomsk! I wish I’d given us more time to see more of Russia when we took the train across, it would have been great to detour off it to see places like this, ah well: just have to return!
Silvia says
There are so many places in Russia that I didn’t get a chance to see – it’s just too huge! Definitely worth another trip 🙂
Jenia says
Nice! Our favorite places when we travel always end up being where we have the best stories of connecting with people. Next time we are in Siberia, we’ll have to check out Tomsk. If you are in Russia in the summer you might want to check out Petrozavodsk — it’s pretty close to St Petersburg, and has even more surreal white nights. And lots and lots of history (I suppose not unusual for that part of the country)
Silvia says
Thanks for the tip! I think I’ll need longer than just 30 days (which I get on the visa) to see Russia in summer – so many beautiful places!
becky hutner says
Silvia, your winter game is so impressive.
Silvia says
Oh you know I take winter SUPER seriously!
John says
I’m in the middle of planning my Trans-Siberian adventure so this post is really useful – thanks! One question: what time of year did you visit Tomsk? It looks so beautiful in the snow!