And to think that just about one year ago I was frantically rushing to the Kazakh embassy in Bangkok to pick up Danielle and my visas before heading to Indonesia the next day. WHERE has the time gone?!
It started with Danielle and my kicking off our then joint blog The Roaming Coconuts with this post, which then took us on an epic month-long tour of Indonesia. A couple months later had me lying in a hospital bed in Beijing (uh, thanks for the respiratory infection, Indonesia!) before hopping on a train for a 72-hour ride (my ankles swell just thinking about it) to Western China.
Danielle and I traipsed around the Stans, lost a friend at the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, fought our way through Vietnam, and ultimately decided that we hated each other too much to go through with our plans to travel together through Eastern Africa in the spring. I guess four and a half months is a long time to spend traveling with one person.
In 2014 I launched Heart My Backpack to start some solo blogging, dabbled both in traveling solo and traveling as part of a couple (gross, I know), had a blog post translated into Farsi for an Iranian publication and was interviewed by an Iranian news channel (ha, no way I’m sharing that link), and excitedly rejoined Danielle for another adventure, because really we just fight because we are basically like sisters.
So what’s in store for year two?
Uh, ummm. Well. I’m not sure.
I am hoping to really need to decide soon. Either I will move to Aarhus, Denmark next month to begin a master’s course in international studies, or I will stay in Thailand for a few months to rest and save up money for another spring of traveling. The first option seems like a safer choice, as studying seems like A Good Thing To Do, but the second option could include things like best friends, adventures, discoveries, and love.
So while I get back to my lengthy pro and con list, I will leave you to take a look back at my year in travels!
Indonesia:
Indonesia was the perfect way for Danielle and me to kick off our trip. While we did spend a few days on Java doing cultural things, most of our time in Indonesia was about beaches, beaches, beaches! The highlight? Definitely the four-day boat trip we did from Gili Trawangan to Flores. Lowlight? Being bitten by a monkey in Ubud!
Malaysia:
We stayed three nights in Kuala Lumpur, all of which I spent in bed with a high fever. Ugh.
China:
While spending three weeks bedridden in Beijing was less than fun, things picked up when we made it to Kashgar – possibly one of the most fascinating cities in Asia. Our re-entry into China after touring Central Asia was full of highlights, including hitchhiking with some amazing new Chinese friends and exploring the Tibetan areas of Western China. 
Kyrygzstan:
Kyrgyzstan was definitely my favorite country in Central Asia (SPOILER: I’m going to say the same thing about Tajikistan). Horseback riding through the Kyrgyz mountains, camping in Yurts, attending a terrifying game of Buzkashi, or sheep carcass polo, and staying with some of the nicest people in the world – there was nothing I did not love about my time in Kyrgyzstan. 
Kazakhstan:
We only spent one week in Kazakhstan, which was far too short a time to explore such a big country. But the people were super friendly and the food delicious, so I’m sure I’ll make it back again someday! There were two lowlights, though: bedbugs and border police. 
Tajikistan:
Tajikistan was definitely my favorite country in Central Asia. I fell hard for Khorog, a city that both captured and broke my heart, I don’t have enough words for the Pamir Highway, visiting the Afghan border market was possibly my favorite afternoon of 2013, and the Wakhan Corridor? Let’s just say that if I’m not studying in Denmark this year I WILL be going back to Tajikistan! My heart is racing just thinking about it.
Uzbekistan:
I didn’t love Uzbekistan. After being welcomed as a guest by locals in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, highly touristed Uzbekistan felt harsh and incredibly money-oriented. While the Silk Road sites were awe-inspiring and possibly worth dealing with the annoying hassling by vendors, I was too overwhelmed by the throngs of tour buses to fully enjoy my time in Uzbekistan. 
Vietnam:
I had pretty mixed feelings about Vietnam. Maybe I was feeling a bit of culture shock in returning to the banana pancake trail, but something about being a backpacker in Vietnam made me feel uncomfortable. This was also the end of Danielle and my time traveling in Asia together and we weren’t exactly getting along wonderfully, so most of my memories of Vietnam include a fair bit of grumpiness (sorry, Danielle!). 
Thailand:
Returning to Chiang Mai after four and a half months on the road was a bit of a relief. I finally got to have a room to myself again, reunited with my laptop (!), and spent time with some of my favorite people.
U.S.A.
I went back home to Massachusetts for three weeks over Christmas and um, culture shock. I cried a lot and was too scared to go into a mall, but I did enjoy seeing friends and family and eating an absurd amount of Cheerios!
England:
Some of my favorite people live in England, including my older sister, so I always love any time I get to spend there. It also happened to be a perfect place to try out the amazing DSLR camera my dad had so generously handed down to me over Christmas! 
Norway:
I don’t think there’s anything in the world that makes me happier than spending quality time with my grandmother in wintry Norway. 
Laos:
I fell in love in with Laos. 
Oman:
I was only in Muscat for a day as part of a long layover, which was just enough time to decide that Oman is sort of a strange place. Since then I’ve heard great things about Oman from other tourists, so maybe I’ll try to go back for longer someday. 
Iran:
You probably don’t want to ask me about Iran. I find it hard to stop talking about how much I loved Iran, how wonderful the people there were, how much it deserves to be a bigger tourist destination, how I hope that the situation for the people there improves soon, and so forth and so on and on. I loved Iran, and writing about my time there also made me love blogging.
The feedback I received from Iranian readers was overwhelming and far too kind – I still receive emails weekly from Iranians writing to tell me how happy they were to read about my experiences there. The comments and private messages responding to my posts about Iran were so incredibly touching, but in a way they also made me sad. An American girl writing about the great time she had in Iran shouldn’t be such a big deal – Iranians deserve more. 
Armenia:
Armenia was a reminder that while solo travel can be freeing and empowering, it can also be hard. I was pretty bummed to leave Iran, but getting back to a Russian-speaking country was a consolation! I loved Yerevan, especially when it snowed, but otherwise I felt like I couldn’t really make the most of my time in Armenia. With fairly limited public transport, taxis were often the only way to get to attractions – not exactly ideal for a budget traveler backpacking alone. I would LOVE to someday return to Armenia with a car to explore the country properly. 
Georgia:
I was overwhelmed by how cool Georgia was. With its high energy, delicious food, and close proximity to some seriously stunning mountains, I could totally imagine moving to Tbilisi someday. Having an old college friend as my personal tour guide was just the icing on this delicious Georgian cake.
Egypt:
Is there anything more fun than jetting off to Egypt with your bestie to play on the pyramids and relax by the Red Sea? No there is not. We were initially unsure of whether it is safe to travel to Egypt now, but we didn’t have any problems. Well, aside from trying to figure out how to cram as much of Egypt as possible into ten short days. I think we did pretty well!
Jordan:
Israel:
Reuniting with Danielle felt pretty good, and Israel was the perfect place for to do so! Danielle’s enthusiasm for the country was pretty contagious, and even though it didn’t end up being my favorite country in the Middle East (the painfully high prices didn’t help), I couldn’t help but have fun there. 
Palestine:
I wish everyone could have the chance to Couchsurf in Palestine – I don’t think I’ve ever before had as strong a desire to hug a country. 
Serbia:
Apparently 16 hours is just enough time to fall in love with Belgrade. Anyone know of any job openings in Serbia for a 26-year-old American with a philosophy degree?
Albania:
I got sunburnt on beautiful beaches, ate bags of cherries for a dollar, lost and later recovered my passport, and hung out in Europe’s illegal drug capital. Not bad, Albania.
Macedonia:
I found Macedonia charming, while Danielle really didn’t like it. In Macedonia’s defense, I’m pretty sure that the only reason Danielle didn’t like it was that it rained most of our time there. Highlight: Macedonia is the easiest country I’ve ever hitchhiked through. I think our longest wait for a ride was eight minutes. 
Greece:
What better place for Danielle and me to finish off a year of on-again, off-again traveling together than über romantic Santorini?! Actually we much preferred Paros, and really I think I would have enjoyed Greece more in general had I not so recently been floating in the same beautiful waters for a quarter of the price in Albania. Though the baklava was pretty delicious! 
Stay tuned for my full posts about Macedonia and Greece. I’m just a little behind, I promise!
Lina says
Wow, congrats on a really impressive year of traveling! If you don’t mind me asking, how do you afford to travel for so long? It doesn’t seem like you had time to work at all this year, or did you?
Silvia says
Thanks, Lina! No, I did not have time to make any money this year (eek!). I have been living off of money I saved teaching English for two years in Japan as part of the JET program. I was living on a remote island, so easily saved half of my salary each year. Now I try to keep to a fairly small budget – never averaging more than $1000/month (and often spending much less). Of course my savings will eventually run out, so it’s not exactly a sustainable lifestyle.
Satu VW / Destination Unknown says
Wow, you’ve had quite the year and some beautiful images to remind from it!! Congrats to a 1-year old and let me know if you come for a visit to Norway again 🙂
Silvia says
Thanks so much, Satu! I hope that I can go back to Norway again soon.
The Guy says
Hi Silvia, wow what an amazing adventure you’ve had so far. ANd many congratulations on a year of travel blogging, many don’t get that far. Once you’ve overcome that first year hurdle you just keep going, believe me 🙂
I’m in awe at some of your adventures. I’ve been to quite a few but certainly not all of those places. Like you I hate the over commercialisation of places and being pestered all the time. That is why I hate Egypt but I guess you didn’t suffer so much from it?
I’m also intrigued with your love/hate relationship with Danielle. I do like how you say you fight so much because you are like sisters. This means that you can always move on from things together.
Travelling together can be a very intense thing and tempers will brew at times. Glad to see you overcome that.
Your family are well scattered too. Yet if that means tea and scones in my home country then that is okay by me 🙂
Silvia says
Thanks for the encouragement!
I was actually pleasantly surprised by Egypt – it seemed that people there were sort of on their best behavior for tourists. Like, when we would ignore people trying to hassle us they would stop and call out “Enjoy Egypt! Tell your friends to come!”
Danielle and my friendship is definitely love/hate. We had only known each other for a few months when we started our trip, so it could have been a bit of a disaster. And you’re right – traveling definitely brings out the tempers. But I think having gone through so many intense experiences and having fought and made up so many times we will just have to be friends forever now, ha.
Will Zhong says
Hi, Silvia, I’am Will Zhong. I have just translated your blog into Chinese and posted on my personal blog. I hope you don’t mind.Haha.
Also, in this post you mention that you and Dannielle are in the relationship of love/have. It reminded me that once we three people travelling in western China and I have read your blog and knew that Danielle may have some little opionions on my views of hitchhiking in China. I hope she will not hate me, because you know ,I dont’ really mean it, why I was doing so is to catch a ride quicker. I ‘m so glad that you enjoy the hitchhiking, and I still very much miss Big Brother Wong.
Will Zhong says
Wow~ So great. and I miss you too, Silvia.
This is Will Zhong, The guy you met in western China, haha.
I’m so glad that I was in the picture above that shown in the post.It reminds me of a very cherishable memory.
Will you continue your great journey?
Silvia says
Thanks, Will – I cherish those memories too! The big question for me now is whether I will continue the journey or move back to Europe to attend graduate school. Big decision!
Will Zhong says
I have one question, Silvia.
So why do you and Dannielle name your blog The Roaming coconuts?
Do you have some stories about this name?
Silvia says
Hmm, we don’t really have a story behind “The Roaming Coconuts.” We met in Thailand, and Thailand has lots of coconuts… and then we were planning to roam around the world together?
Will Zhong says
Thanks for your reply~
I really enjoy your stories. and so envious of you~In China my peers care about money so much so it was far too difficult to take so much time for travalling, not ever mention solo backpack travelling. and also for most Chinese, language is problem.
Silvia says
Yeah, traveling can be difficult. You are lucky that can you speak such good English!
Agness says
What a wonderful year it was for you. Full of travel adventures, amazing people who made you feel home and delicious food! Congratulations. It’s such a milestone! Wishing you another 10 years on the road. I hope you’ll never stop smiling!
Silvia says
Thanks, Agness, what a sweet comment! And wow, 10 years – I hope that wish comes true!
Swetha says
Silvs! I miss you dear girl (and our own brief time of traveling together)! This blog makes me so happy and I hope you continue your roaming so that I may continue to live vicariously through you. Appropriately, I am writing this comment from India haha. Have you done traveling in South/Central Am yet? DO IT. So that I can just copy you. I’m planning a trip to Belize right now, and am totally FREAKING OUT. JK <3 lots of love!
Silvia says
TAKE ME TO BELIZE! Ha, actually I think Patagonia would top my American travel list and part of me wants to try to make that happen this year. Then there’s that other part that has been meaning to ask you – is February too early to go trekking in Nepal? (and will you come with me, pleeeeease?). Forget school, forget real life, let’s move back to Nepal, kay?
Swetha says
School is forgotten…lol I wish. Although I will be living in another country and getting credit for it next summer :)If you go to patagonia, I will totally go with you! It’s a huge climbing destination (and I actually do that now). Nepal is february is both the best and the worst. Roads get really really closed from snow. But the mountains are super crystal clear. win/lose? it’s freezing and obviously there’s no electricity or water then, but I’d still make the trip if you want company! Just be prepared for snow and cold and ice. (with a beautiful snowcapped backdrop)
Shaun says
What an amazing year!! You’ve hit some amazing countries and I couldn’t agree more about Iran. They are demonized in the media. I recently read about Taarof. Incredibly fassinating culture.
I didn’t like Santorini, overly expensive tourist trap. Amazing sunset but that’s all. I had a much better time on Milos.
cherry says
What an eventful year! This post makes me want to pack my backpack again and ask you to be my travel buddy, since you have great luck on hitchiking 😀 Great inspiration!
Silvia says
Thanks, Cherry, I always love a bit of company 🙂
jennifer says
Happy blogiversary! This post also doubles as a prime example of why I love your blog so much. You go to places that are not often written about and you have such a great writing style.
I am voting for you to go to Thailand because that option gives you way more opportunities to keep me entertained through another season of your travels.
Silvia says
Thanks so much Jennifer, what a lovely comment! I know one British boy here who was very happy to see a vote for me to stay in Thailand, ha. I’ll post about it as soon as I’ve decided!
Joella J in Beijing says
Congratulations on a year of blogging Silvia! Well, I have loved reading your adventures since I found your blog earlier this year. You definitely have one of my favourite travel blogs as you so often get off the beaten path and visit such interesting places! Good luck with whatever you decide to do next year- it’s a tough one!
Silvia says
Wow thanks, Joella, I’m so happy that you’ve enjoyed reading! Decisions are the worst and I’m the worst at making them, but hopefully it will all end up working out.
Victoria says
Congratulations Silvia! Wow! You really have done a wonderful set of travelling in, for many people, remote areas. It’s wonderful reading your blog. 🙂 I’d like to visit Central Asia in the next two years as I’m very much into taking the train from Russia to China. I wish I could go slower and take the train from Berlin where I live, but time is of essence. Sigh!
Silvia says
Thanks, Victoria! I’m seriously in love with Central Asia, and in fact already planning my next trip there. Taking the train from Russia to China would be so much fun! I would love to read your future stories from that trip 🙂
Victoria says
I’ll certainly let you know LOL. 2015 is going to be an amazing year, I’m sure!
Adventuress_Ali says
Hi again. Nevermind netflix, I’m super binging your blog.
If it looks like one Norwegian is reading everything, all day, its me. A Canadian backpacker, currently in Norway (taking a heart beat to rest a possibly broken miniscus in my knee and painfulky frustrated at the lack of walking In going to do here)
Wait, i had a point!! Have.
Could you please direct me to or write a post about what clothes you bring and where you store clothes as you travel?! You have super cute pics but always seem to have different stuff on. Very instagram-y.
Also, you mentioned returning to your laptop (ages ago) in Chaing Mai. Were you able to leave things with friends or do you have a cool travel hack to share?
Thanks for the fun posts, and esp the ‘how to blog’ type stuff.
mohamed says
amazing blog. travelling will makes you stay younger. Keep going Silvia i do really enjoy your Blog