Would you take a Mongolia holiday in the winter? This is what it’s like!
The Mongolian countryside is seriously beautiful. That’s my big revelation from two weeks of travel in Mongolia.
Okay I know that won’t be big news to anyone, but I just wanted to let you guys know, if you were wondering, that yes, Mongolia is really beautiful and totally lives up to the hype. And Mongolia in winter? Still totally magical.
Okay, Ulaabaatar is very smoggy in the winter, but taking a holiday out of the city was a quite literal breath of fresh air, and so, so beautiful. Plus it was totally empty!
Mongolia holidays – in winter
Winter isn’t a great time for tourism in Mongolia, and for good reason. It’s incredibly cold, roads are blocked by snow, and camping would be a frozen nightmare. I was sad that we couldn’t simply wander off for a week with a tent and river for a map, or buy horses and journey across the country for a month before reselling them at the Kazakh border, but we made due.
Actually, in many respects winter might be the best time to travel to Mongolia!
In Central Asia I met a lot of travelers who had traveled through Mongolia, and many of them complained that the country was expensive and surprisingly crowded with tourists on holidays. However we didn’t see many tourists there in February. I know, I was shocked too.
Alicia and Bryce only had a week in Mongolia, so we didn’t have time to venture far outside of Ulaanbaatar. Our main objective was – can you guess? – to stay in a ger!
At first I thought that we’d have to take an expensive tour to get out of the city, as Mongolia isn’t big on roads or public transportation so usually people take special Mongolia trekking tours, but eventually we tracked down the number of Bert, a Dutch expat running a small yurt camp with his wife in nearby Gorkhi-Terelj National Park.
We took a local bus to Nalaikh and then caught a minivan to Terelj, where Bert met us and brought us to our new home for the next few nights!
A Mongolian ger: the coziest winter holiday accommodation ever? I think so.
We each paid 30 euros/night at Bert’s, which included food and drinks. So like, it was much cheaper than doing a tour.
It was interesting hearing an expat’s perspective on life in Mongolia, and it didn’t hurt that Bert makes his own cheese and cured meats! Seriously, the meals we had at Bert’s were so, so delicious. Between stuffing ourselves with yummy Mongolian food at mealtimes, hiking through the surrounding hills and frozen river during the day, and cozying together in our stove-heated ger at night, I’d say we had found a special version of paradise.
Well, except for that lingering cough from Ulaanbaatar, ugh.
The Mongolian cows were so furry!
Mongolia – not your typical winter holiday travel destination (but still magical!)
Even with the dry climate, there was a light dusting of snow which made the rolling Mongolian hills even more beautiful. They looked like they were made of folds of velvet!
I’ll admit that I had been a little skeptical of Mongolia after loving Central Asia so much. It’s hard not to compare Mongolia to Kyrgyzstan, especially the countryside, both with their nomadic locals and lots of opportunities for yurt stays and horse treks. (Kazakhstan is probably even more similar, but I sadly only had time to visit cities there.)
I spent just under two weeks in Mongolia, whereas I traveled through Kyrgyzstan for a month, so of course I have fonder feelings for Kyrgyzstan. Kyrgyzstan is obviously less touristy than Mongolia, and being able to communicate in Russian there was a huge plus for me.
But I was surprised at how different I found Mongolia to be! I mean, the two countries have distinct cultures and histories so this should have been obvious, but I had basically just lumped them together in my head as “places where people ride horses and live in yurts.” I know. So it turns out that Mongolia totally is worth a visit after all! Which I’m sure all of you guys already knew – I was just a tad late to the party, as usual.
Staying in a ger in Mongolia without a tour:
The bus from Ulaanbaatar to Nalaikh costs 900 MNT, and we caught it along Peace Avenue. The minibus to Terelj costs 1300 MNT.
We simply called Bert when we were in Ulaanbaatar to reserve a ger (you’d probably need to book further in advance in the summer). His number is: 99734710. We paid 30 euros/night for accommodation and food at Bert’s. Highly recommended!
In Ulaanbaatar we stayed at Sunpath Mongolia, which is centrally located and run by the nicest people I met in Mongolia. Sunpath was definitely the highlight of my time in Ulaanbaatar! Check current prices and availability for Sunpath Mongolia
The best Mongolia tours:
And if you do want to see more of Mongolia, then your easiest option will be to book a Mongolia tour. There are a lot of Mongolia tour companies out there, however you do need to be a bit careful when choosing a Mongolia tour because some are less reliable than others.
If you want to be sure of high standards and professionalism, I’d recommend going with either G Adventures or Intrepid Travel, which are both well established in the region and have really fun itineraries ranging from 1 – 3 weeks.
Check the G Adventures Mongolia tour itineraries, prices and availability here
Check the Intrepid Travel Mongolia tour itineraries, prices and availability here
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Nathan Anderson says
Loving these pictures! I went to Mongolia in March, and even then the crowds were almost non-existent. If you can handle the temperature, it’s a great time to go 🙂 Glad you had a good experience… Mongolia is one of my favorite places.
I went through the Sunpath Guesthouse for my Gobi tour! They were super nice and very helpful… would definitely recommend them as well.
Thanks for bringing back the memories!
Silvia says
That’s so crazy that you also used Sunpath – such a small world! I’m glad you also had a good experience in cold Mongolia; I agree that it’s a special time to go.
becky hutner says
I LOVE YURTS! what is it about staying somewhere round & stove-heated that’s so delightful? i have to admit though, every time i see photos of monoglia, i can’t help but think it looks a bit…barren? on the brown side? is it the kind of beauty you really have to see in person? (so not a dig @ Your photos…)
Silvia says
The area we were was really dry (and pretty close to the desert) so it was really barren and brown! I guess other parts of the country are more lush though? It wasn’t my favorite kind of landscape, but definitely something distinct!
Marie @ Marie Away says
This sounds amazing! I’ve always been so intrigued by Mongolia, and your photos are stunning! It sounds like an awesome experience to spend some time in the countryside during a cold Mongolian winter 🙂
Silvia says
Cold Mongolian winter was surprisingly cozy 🙂
jennifer says
I want to sleep in a ger! Do you have anymore pictures of the inside? I want to seeeeeeee so bad!
Silvia says
Haha I didn’t really take many photos of the inside but just imagine a tent with thick woolen walls and some beds and a stove in the middle 🙂
Andrea @ GreenAndTurquoise says
Great post!
Mongolia has always fascinated me, both from a cultural and environmental point of view. Such a unique landscape!
And I love your pictures, the hills really do look like they’re made of velvet 🙂
Silvia says
It really is so unique!
Patti says
I’ve read two of your posts today and they were food for the soul. I’m feeling particularly frustrated today with news of the world and a hateful comment someone wrote on my blog’s FB page in response to a post. There are too many haters in this world and then I read your post about an expat who owns a yurt and makes his own cheese and cures meat and I remembered how much good there is in this world – and that travel helps to hush the haters. I can’t say I have a burning desire to travel to Mongolia, but thank you for sharing your journey and brightening my day.
Silvia says
Ugh I really don’t understand why people feel the need to write hateful comments on the Internet. It’s so unnecessary. But you’re right, hearing about Bert’s life in Mongolia did remind me how many amazing things people are doing in this world – definitely inspires me to chase after an interesting life.
Franca says
Wow, Mongolia really is different from any other country I went to. Do you know how difficult or easy it would be to travel there as vegan?
Silvia says
Hmm most of the food I had was meat based, but there was also a lot of cabbage soups and salads and things, so I think it could be doable as a vegan! There wasn’t much dairy at all, so there you’d be fine!
Justine says
I’m so glad the countryside lived up to the hype. There’s nothing worse than hearing rave reviews about a place only to have it fall short of your built-up expectations. It looks beautiful there. And it sounds like you guys found a great host. I’m mean, seriously, he makes his own cheese?! That’s freaking awesome 🙂 Oh, and the fuzzy cows are so cute. I’ve never seen anything like that!
Silvia says
The fuzzy cows were probably my favorite part of Mongolia, haha.
Lizzie says
Mongolia intrigues me SO MUCH. I love your photos and your story about your time there has made me want to go even more (if that’s possible!).
Silvia says
You definitely should add Mongolia to your list!
Rebekah says
your pictures are amazing. I would really like to visit there at some point. Its too bad the capital was so smoggy- its always gives me a wicked bad cough too (Thanks China)
Silvia says
Ugh, smog, always ruining places (especially in Asia). But otherwise it was great!
Dariece says
Wow, stunning photos! Definitely cold in the winter, but still beautiful.
Thanks for the shout-out as well 🙂
Cheers!
Silvia says
Thanks, Dariece! Reading about your experiences in Mongolia still makes me want to return in the summer someday, but the winter was also pretty special!
Vanessa @ The Travelling Colognian says
These photos are beautiful, Silvia, and I bet, travelling through Mongolia in winter is amazing in spite of the cold. Great that you managed to do your stay in a yurt without a tour, I will definitely keep Bert in mind for a potential trip to Mongolia. I stayed in a yurt in the Tian Shan Mountains in Xinjiang Province in Northwest China in late October and I was the only guest there. It was already quite cold and there was snow, but the sky was clear and the views absolutely breathtaking. That’s the advantage of travelling off-season: on my whole journey from Beijing to Kashgar I met less than two hands full of western people and just a very few chinese tour groups.
Silvia says
Oh wow, staying in a yurt in the Tian Shan mountains sounds like an amazing experience! And you know how much I love Kashgar 🙂
Victoria@ The British Berliner says
I love your pictures and I would so like to do this. I want to visit Mongolia now as it’s increasingly becoming popular and yes, I’d probably have to go in the summer (school holidays and all that!)
Would you know if Bert has a social media platform on FB or Twitter, as I don’t fancy turning up and all the yurt camps are booked out?
Silvia says
Hmm I’m not sure if Bert has social media, but I sort of doubt it. I think your best bet would be to call/Skype him (I wrote his number in the post). I hope you do go!
Sabina // Sabina Meets World says
That’s awesome that you got to stay in ger! It looks like it was the perfect place to stay while exploring the surroundings. Also, I am in love with all your pictures. They’re incredible.
Silvia says
The ger really was so perfect – and so cozy in the winter!
Chalsie says
How interesting that you had a different experience from the people you met in central Asia! I love travelling in winter to most countries. Definitely an added bonus that winter is usually the off peak season.
Mongolia looks incredible! You’ll have to go back one day for some camping and hiking!
Chalsie | The Workshop Co. x
Silvia says
I’m really glad I went to Mongolia in off season, even if I did miss out on the camping.
kami says
You just sold Mongolia in winter to me! ok, I might be a fan of traveling in off season but after spending a weekend in Lviv when it was -20C outside (but the weather was just the best) I rethink every journey in that time 😉 But here Mongolia looks and sounds easily doable in the winter time! And I so would love to visit! (did I already tell you I love how you go to all the destinations from my bucket list? ;))
Silvia says
I’ve decided that all the cool people go to Mongolia in the winter 🙂 (And by cool I of course mean crazy)
Facu says
I’m going this winter to mongolia and I’m concerned about the cold specially away from the city so I have to ask, did you need any special winter clothes? specially for your feet. I’m from South America and the coldest place I’ve been is Prague with -15° at is lowest so any advice about that will be very helpful!!
Is really cool to know that there’s other people crazy enough to do this in winter just like me 🙂
Silvia says
I had a couple of very thick wool sweaters and a very warm scarf and hat! It’s a bit of a crazy experience, but a lovely adventure.
Steph of Big World Small Pockets says
Seriously stunning!
Silvia says
It is!!
Tiang says
Thanks for writing this up! I’m planning to go into Ulaanbaatar from Hohhot next week – will definitely get in touch with Bert!
Silvia says
You definitely have to get in touch with Bert! Have fun 🙂
Norman says
Hey Silvia,
loved this little artcile (also read your other blogs about central asia). I’ve been touring Russia in winter a lot an came to enjoy the country during that time. as you already pointed out – there is just half the crowd (or less). Also it almost feels like these parts of the world are better visited in winter. Like it was part of their soul.
My dad made me a very special christmas present: A 4 week trip to central asia. But I really can’t seem to decide between Mongolia and Kyrgyzstan. Been thinking about it for the past 5 days nonstop! Do ppl in Kyrgyzstan really speak plain standard Russian? Because that would obviously a major argument for going there.
What are your throught on which to pick? I hate crowds & love authentic culture.
cheers Norman 🙂
Silvia says
What an amazing Christmas present! I would absolutely 100% choose Kyrgyzstan! It’s so less touristy than Mongolia, and the people are incredibly welcoming and nice. In fact, after talking to people in Beijing who had been both places my friends and I totally changed our trip and skipped Mongolia and headed to Kyrgyzstan instead (two nights before we were set to leave for Mongolia, ha). It was nice finally making it to Mongolia this year, but I’m so glad I went to Kyrgyzstan. And yes, their Russian is standard – it’s actually easier to understand than Russian in Russia, because it’s not their first language so they’re simplifying things. Good luck!
Diana says
I am a 30 year old female traveler going to Ulaanbatar alone during the first week of October. Did Bert’s ger have running water while you were there? Do you share the yurt with other people? During the day, was it easy explore the surrounding area without booking a driver or riding an animal?
Silvia says
Hmm I can’t remember about running water. We shared the yurt with our friends, but there was another traveler alone who had his own yurt. And we just explored everywhere on foot – there’s lots of hiking in the area!
Dany says
Hi.
I,m Dany, a white male, leaving in Beijing, China. I,m planning a trip to Mongolia this winter in late december. Anyone willing to join me, please write me.
Cheers.
Dany.
Annie says
Hi, Love your Post <3
Thank you for sharing your experience, could you tell me if you have any advice for the shoes?
Which one did you get? was them light and easy to wear?
Thank you so much 🙂
Harriet says
Hi!
Really enjoyed your post. I a man currently on the road about to set off on the Transsiberian. Bert’s place sounds exactly what we’re looking for. I know it’s been a while but do you have any more info like an email? Is this number you have a landline or a mobile?
Searched high and low for more info, but we really want to get in touch before we get to Ulaan Bataar as we don’t have much time there.
Thank you!
Harriet
Silvia says
Ugh sorry, all I could find was this number as well! We called I think the day before we went to his place (so when we were already in UB) and it was fine – I doubt it fills up. Good luck, and have fun!
ceyhun says
The pictures are amazing
Silvia says
It’s an amazing place!
David Nicholls says
Hi,
Looks amazing. My girlfriend and I are heading there in November. Burt’s looks like a greta idea. Did you just ring him when you got to UB? We were going to try and pre-book if there’s any other way of getting him. Also, sounds like any more than a couple of days in UB will be enough with the fog. Great read, thanks for the info.
David Nicholls says
And I just read the comment where you said you didn’t have an email. Thanks 🙂
Hannah says
Hey! Does Bert have an email address? or another way of contacting him? We are hoping to visit Mongolia in 2018 or 19 and this sounds amazing!
Silvia says
I’m afraid I only have the phone number!
Chimgee says
I just called Bert on 9973 4710, and he answered a call. You too May call him too ,976 -99734710
huck says
Hello! Silvia. Thank You for your inspiring Mongolia blog. One question, it’s fine for a solo traveler to explore the Khuvsgul lake? I was trying not to take the tour. I wish to contact to Bert too (his is popular now, I guess). Just sound crazy to call him from Malaysia. I will be visiting in early March this year, I want to catch the Ice Fests 🙂
You should try Nepal, Annapurna Base Camp…I went last Feb, 2017. It was amazing, especially the humble folks.
Cheers! huck
Seth says
I went to Mongolia last July and the temperature hit 98°F in Ulan Bator! It was very dry so not bad. Went to Terelj as well. Even in July, there weren’t many tourists (white European ones, anyway) anywhere.
Chimgee says
Mr Bert still on this number, I just now called him. You.guys may call him,good luck,
MB says
Do you maybe have an emailadress or website of Bert?
Steven George says
Beautiful images that attracts me to visit this country… could you suggest when will be I can visit here…