I’ve always loved France, but when my parents moved to Strasbourg in 2019 I became even more eager to explore the country. And one French destination that had been on my bucket list for years was Corsica. A few of my Norwegian friends had visited Corsica on day trips from Italy, but otherwise I only seemed to hear of Corsica from French people taking summer holidays there. And of course I want to vacation in France like the French do!
I’m also so intrigued by island culture. After living on a tiny Japanese island for two years, I now always seem to be drawn to visiting islands, from the Faroe Islands to Shetland to the Falkland Islands, Greenland and Mallorca. But I had never visited a French island before – unless you count the briefly French Comoros Islands, where I did get to practice my less than great French.
So when my friend Sher and I started talking about taking a late summer beach holiday together, I immediately suggested Corsica. And I’m so glad that I did, because visiting Corsica was an actual dream come true. I knew Corsica would have beautiful towns and beaches and mountains, but I was still absolutely blown away by France’s Île de Beauté.
And it was fun to see French island life!
Corsica lies north of the Italian island of Sardinia and as the fourth largest island in the Mediterranean, there are many different experiences you can have here. Corsica has beautiful beaches, dramatic mountains full of hiking trails, picturesque little villages, and cities and towns steeped in history (Napoleon was from Corsica!). Sher and I opted for a bit of everything, with a road trip looping around most of the island, taking us by beautiful beaches, mountains, cities and villages.
We spent two weeks in Corsica, but I think you could follow this same itinerary in ten days or even a week if you have less time. Or you could always skip a couple stops and do a smaller loop instead. I’ve also shared a guide for where to stay in Corsica here.
Quick Corsica Travel Guide
Corsica Accommodation: Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo in Ajaccio, Kasano & Spa in Calvi, Hôtel du Nord in Corte, Hotel Le Tourisme in Zonza (Bavella), Hotel Costa Salina in Porto Vecchio, and Solemare in Bonifacio.
Top Corsica Activities:
- 4×4 Agriate Desert excursion from Calvi
- First dive in Calvi
- Sunset cruise from Calvi
- Horse riding by the river Tavignanu in Corte
- Boat cruise to the Lavezzi Islands from Bonifacio
- Sea kayaking in the caves of Bonifacio from Piantarella
- Canyoning in Bavella
- Take a day trip to Sardinia from Porto-Vecchio
- Boat trip to Calenques of Piana from Ajaccio
Corsica car rental: compare Corsica car rental rates here
Rent a car
You can certainly visit Corsica without a car, especially if you stick to areas connected by trains and boats. However I was so happy we rented a car so that we could really explore the island. Rental cars are fairly inexpensive in Corsica, and I found it easy driving here, as there’s not too much traffic and the roads are mostly on the smaller side. Even the mountain roads, while steep and narrow, were totally doable!
Driving in Corsica actually reminded me a lot of driving in Mallorca, another one of my favorite European islands. The views are stunning, and it was so nice to be able to pull over for photos or a spontaneous cup of coffee at all of Corsica’s prettiest spots.
The only place I wouldn’t have wanted to have a rental car in Corsica was Ajaccio, as the traffic there is more chaotic and parking is expensive. Sher and I avoided this by waiting to pick up our rental car at the airport until after we had spent our first few days in Ajaccio. This also worked out well because our hotel offered a free airport pickup.
Car rental in Corsica is quite cheap, though you might have trouble finding an automatic car if you don’t drive manual (I had to do all the driving here, as Sher only drives automatic). Sher and I booked our Corsica car rental on Auto Europe, which compares rental prices from all the different companies to find the best price. We flew in and out of Ajaccio, so we picked our car up at the airport there. You can check car rental prices and availability on AutoEurope here.
Ajaccio
Sher and I started our trip with a few days in Ajaccio, but this would also be a great place to finish your trip if you’re flying into/out of Ajaccio. Either way, I definitely think Ajaccio is worth at least a day or two. Ajaccio is the capital of Corsica and it’s such a pretty city with lots of great restaurants and shops as well as a long city beach. And here you can also visit Napoleon’s childhood home, which is now a national museum.
I will say that Ajaccio is quite a laidback city to visit, without too many sites or attractions you need to track down. Visiting Ajaccio is more about strolling through the beautiful palm lined streets with colorful pastel buildings, stopping for coffee to people watch at one of Ajaccio’s many street side cafes, and perhaps heading down to the beach to dip your feet in the sea.
Where to stay in Ajaccio
Sher and I stayed at the Hôtel Pozzo di Borgo in Ajaccio’s old-town. The hotel is also just a few doors down from the Bonaparte residence, and it was quite fun to stay in Napoleon’s old neighborhood. The hotel also happens to be housed in a mansion belonging to the family of Charles André Pozzo di Borgo, Napoleon’s archnemesis!
I also loved that the central location meant we could explore Ajaccio on foot.
Things to do in Ajaccio
- Visit St. François Beach, Ajaccio’s city beach. This long beach is right in the city center with a beautiful palm tree lined promenade next to it with cafés, shops and restaurants.
- Explore Ajaccio on foot. The Old Town is so pretty, and downtown Ajaccio is very walkable. If you want to learn more about the city, you could join a walking tour like this private must-see attractions tour.
- Visit Maison Bonaparte, the ancestral home of Napoleon Bonaparte. This is right in the Old Town, which is a wonderful area to explore on foot.
- Visit Naporama, a small museum by the citadel with several fun handmade dioramas depicting different aspects of Napoleon’s life.
- Take a boat trip exploring the Corsican coast and small surrounding islands. This 8 hour boat trip to the Calanques of Piana takes you through the Gulf of Girolata where you can see the caves in the Scandola Natural Reserve, a World Heritage Site. Or if you want something shorter, this 3 hour boat trip to the Sanguinaires Islands also looks really fun. Or this 12 person 5 hour boat trip to Cala di Cupabia looks absolutely beautiful.
- Take a day trip to Bonifacio. This boat trip from Ajaccio takes you to Bonifacio, where you can spend two hours exploring the town. Bonifacio is quite small, so two hours should be plenty of time here, and the journey will be beautiful.
Where to eat in Ajaccio
Ajaccio has lots of restaurants and cafés, and none we went to required a reservation, so you should easily be able to find food here. My three favorite restaurants I ate at in Ajaccio were Brasserie L’Instant, Pastificio e Risotteria and Le 20123, which has a set menu of a traditional Corsican food (I loved it, but it might not be ideal for picky eaters, as they only have two choices for each course).
Calenques de Piana
After Ajaccio, Sher and I drove up to Calvi and wow, what an incredible drive it was. If you’re heading north from Ajaccio to Calvi, definitely consider taking the extra time to take the mountain route along D81.
This drive is spectacular and quite thrilling at times, with narrow passages and steep cliffside drops into the UNESCO protected Gulf of Porto. That might sound scary, but I promise it’s more beautiful than intimidating. I’m not a particularly great driver and I had no problems at all driving here.
The best part of this drive is passing the Calenques de Piana, towering sculpture-like red rocks and cliffs that glisten in the sun. You can also see these by boat, but driving through them between Porto and Piana is quite an experience.
Sentier des Muletiers hike
Corsica is of course a popular hiking destination, and there are several hikes you can do around the Calenques de Piana. The Sentier des Muletiers hike starts here (with parking). And then you can extend the circuit into other signposted trails, or return to your starting point.
Capo Rosso hike
One of the most popular hikes in the area is the Capo Rosso hike, which starts here. I haven’t done this hike (yet) but it’s supposed to be beautiful (and very challenging) and take about 5 hours.
Calvi
Calvi is my favorite place I stayed in Corsica! Calvi has such a wonderful laidback vibe, and it’s big enough to have lots of restaurants, shops and streets to explore, while small enough to feel like home after only a day here. I quickly found my favorite bakery for morning almond croissants, and each evening Sher and I enjoyed picking a new beachside restaurant for dinner.
Calvi has a long beach perfect for early morning strolls and afternoon drinks. I also found the people here to be surprisingly friendly – this is France after all. Ah I loved Calvi so much, even writing about it now has me eager to return.
Where to stay in Calvi
Sher and I stayed at Kasano & Spa, which is a stylish spa hotel right by the citadel. In fact our room had a balcony with an incredible view over the citadel – one of the best hotel views of our trip! We didn’t get breakfast at the hotel, but instead each morning I would walk to a bakery and have a croissant and coffee while Sher slept in.
The hotel also has a beautiful pool area with the most comfortable sun loungers I think I’ve ever sat in.
Things to do in Calvi
- Explore Calvi on foot. Downtown Calvi is small, but oh so pretty. Walk through the cobblestone streets, stopping at Santa Maria Maggiore’s stunning pink church. Then walk along the water and stop for a drink or ice cream in one of Calvi’s many seafront restaurants.
- Take a boat trip from Calvi, like this 2-hour sunset cruise or this 6 hour boat trip to the UNESCO Scandola Nature Reserve, with swimming, exploring sea caves, and a stop in the village of Girolata.
- Walk up the Calvi citadel for sunset.
- Visit the Domaine Alzipratu vineyard. You can book a wine tasting here.
- 4×4 Agriate Desert excursion
- Go diving on this first dive experience
- Take the train to L’Ile-Rousse. The 45-minute train from Calvi to L’Ile-Rousse is so pretty, taking you along the Corsican coast past beautiful beaches. And L’Ile-Rousse is another wonderful beach town, with a long city beach and a lively town square. Sher and I went here for dinner one night, picking up pizzas at a takeaway spot and eating them on the beach. It was such a fun little trip from Calvi. Train tickets cost 12 euros and you can buy them at the ticket window at the train station before boarding your train.
Where to eat in Calvi
There are many restaurants downtown and along the beach, and none of them seemed to require a reservation. Probably my favorite restaurant I ate at was Chez Dume, where we had traditional Corsican food. And my favorite bakery in Calvi was Amadeus Boulangerie.
Corte
Sher and I stopped for lunch in Corte on our way from Calvi to Porto-Vecchio and we fell so in love with Corte that we ended up spending all day there. In fact if we hadn’t already booked our hotel in Porto-Vecchio I would have been so happy to spend a night or two here.
The approach to Corte is truly spectacular, as you see the town’s citadel perched on top of a dramatic pinnacle. The town is small, but it was actually Corsica’s capital from 1755 to 1769. Today Corte is home to Corsica’s only university, the University of Corsica Pasquale Paoli.
Corte was probably the prettiest town I visited in Corsica, with its colorful buildings, narrow cobblestone alleys and dramatic mountain views.
Things to do in Corte
- Walk around the beautiful Old Town.
- Take the Petit Train around town – perfect if you need some help up the steep streets to the top of the town.
- Visit the Museum of Corsica, which tells the history of Corsica and offers access to the Citadel of Corte.
- Walk up to the Belvédère panoramic viewpoint.
- Enjoy a meal or drink at one of Corte’s many lovely cafés or restaurants.
- Horse riding by the river Tavignanu
- Hike to L’Arche de Corte.
- Hike through the Restonica Valley to to Lac du Melo and Lac de Capitellu, about a 25 minute scenic drive out of Corte.
Where to stay in Corte
Next time I visit Corsica I would love to spend a night or two in Corte. The Hôtel U Passa Tempu looks like a great option, right in the town center.
Bastia
Sher and I didn’t have time to visit Bastia, however if we had had a few more days I would have loved to see Bastia as well. So I’m including it here in case you want to look into going. And if you do go, let me know in the comments how you liked it! I definitely want to return to Corsica soon and would love to see more of the island.
Zonza & Bavella
When asking French friends about Corsica, many mentioned the importance of visiting inland towns and villages, as inner Corsica is quite different from the coastline. I saw this in Corte and again in the lovely mountain village of Zonza. The pace here is different and we’ve left behind the glamor of the yacht lined marinas of the coast.
Zonza mostly draws visitors for its mountain views and access to hikes. If you’ve come to Corsica for the mountains, you definitely want to spend some time in Zonza. This is also where you can stay while visiting the dramatic Aiguilles de Bavella and the nearby villages of Solenzara and Lecci.
The Aiguilles de Bavella feature dramatic granite spikes and waterfalls. This is also a popular place for canyoning, where you can jump and slide down waterfalls and into the water in nature’s waterpark. You can find canyoning activities for a variety of adventure levels here.
Where to stay in Zonza
Hotel le Tourisme is the nicest hotel in Zonza, with a sauna, a hot tub and an outdoor pool with beautiful views.
Things to do in Zonza & Bavella
- Canyoning in Bavella
- Take one of the many hiking routes from Zonza
- Drive to l’Ospedale lake
- Have a (wonderful!) meal at A Pignata (be sure to make a reservation)
Porto-Vecchio
Porto-Vecchio lies on Corsica’s southeast coast, near some of Corsica’s most beautiful beaches. If you’re coming to Corsica for a beach holiday, Porto-Vecchio makes a wonderful base. The town itself has an impressive 16th century citadel and an Old Town with Roman origins.
Porto-Vecchio is stunning, however if I had to skip one place on this itinerary it might be Porto-Vecchio. Don’t get me wrong, I loved the town, but I loved everywhere else I visited in Corsica even more. I would say Porto-Vecchio is most worth visiting for its surrounding beaches.
The highlight of my stay here was definitely the nearby beaches, and I also loved heading up to the Old Town each evening for dinner.
Otherwise my favorite thing about Porto-Vecchio was probably its easy access to Bonifacio, which is just a 30 minute drive away. We visited Bonifacio a couple of time for lunch and dinner, and I think next time I might opt to stay in Bonifacio instead of Porto-Vecchio. The two towns are so close to each other that you could simply look at the available hotels in each and choose based on which hotel you like the most.
Where to stay in Porto-Vecchio
Sher and I stayed at Hotel Costa Salina, which we loved for its beautiful pool and jacuzzi. The hotel is right by Porto-Vecchio’s yacht filled marina, and about a 15-minute walk from the Old Town.
Porto-Vecchio beaches
- Plage de Saint Antoine // this was my favorite beach. You do have to walk about 20 minutes from the road, but the views down are worth the walk.
- Plage de Santa Giulia
- Plage de Carataggio
- Plage de Tamaricciu
- Plage de Palombaggia // beach club Nautical Club Palombaggia with lounge chairs
Things to do in Porto-Vecchio
- Wander through the Old Town.
- Take a day boat trip with swimming and snorkeling
- Take this evening boat ride with a swimming stop and aperitif.
- Go sea kayaking
- Take a day trip to Sardinia by boat
- Take a day trip to Bonifacio
Where to eat in Porto-Vecchio
Most restaurants in Porto-Vecchio require a reservation, even when they’re not full, so definitely try to make a reservation before heading out to dinner! I was surprised to learn that most restaurants take reservations on Instagram, so if you find a restaurant you’re interested in, check out their Instagram and send them a message.
My two favorite restaurants I ate at in Porto-Vecchio were Cantina di l’Orriu and La Table de Nathalie. And now that I think of it, they might have been two of my favorite restaurants I ate at in Corsica.
Bonifacio
As soon as I saw a photo of Bonifacio I knew I had to visit one day. And I’m not the only person who has had that thought – Bonifacio is Corsica’s most popular tourist town. Bonifacio is built on the sparkling white cliffs of the southern tip of Corsica, just a javelin’s throw from Sardinia. The medieval Old Town and its impressive citadel actually extends out a bit over the water which has cut into the cliffside. It’s dramatic and beautiful and very much worth a visit.
Where to stay in Bonifacio
Sher and I opted to stay in Porto-Vecchio and drive into Bonifacio (there’s a large parking lot right downtown). However, if we had stayed in Bonifacio I probably would have chosen Solemar, Hotel la Caravelle, or Santateresa.
Things to do in Bonifacio
- Walk along the marina downtown.
- Walk up to the citadel for beautiful views over the water and Bonifacio’s medieval Old Town.
- Follow the steep Staircase of the King of Aragon down to the water below the Old Town.
- Take a boat trip like this 3 hour boat trip to Bonifacio National Park or this luxury private 8 hour boat trip.
- Go sea kayaking in the caves of Bonifacio
Where to eat in Bonifacio
Bonifacio is another place in Corsica where you really need a reservation for dinner. Sher and I had dinner at Da Passano, a lovely Mediterranean tapas restaurant along the water.
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