Visiting Guyana was the sort of trip where I saw lots of really incredible places, but it was also the kind of trip where I really felt like I learned something.
I mentioned before that Guyana was a touch out of my comfort zone – or at least the 8 days I spent in the rainforest were – and I guess trying new things always becomes some sort of learning experience.
But what made the most lasting impression on me wasn’t the heat or the bugs or the wildlife in Guyana, but instead the people and all the things they seem to be doing better than the rest of the world.
I’m not saying that Guyana and its people are perfect, but in the name of cultural exchange, I do think there’s a lot the rest of the world could learn from Guyanese people.
Diversity is cool
At a time when it feels like the whole world is totally freaking out over globalization and the new faces, cultures and religions it’s bringing to our doorsteps, I found visiting Guyana really reassuring.
Due to its history as a British colony and trading hub, Guyana is home to people from a rich diversity of heritages, including African, Indian, French, Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, and of course local Amerindian. You’ll find everyone celebrating Christmas by eating traditional Amerindian pepper pot, partying in the streets during Holi, and generally enjoying the country’s unique mix of cultures.
When I asked a woman from Georgetown how she felt about having friends from many different backgrounds and religions she shrugged and said, “Sometimes we eat a lot of chicken. I don’t eat beef because I’m Hindu and my Muslim friends don’t eat pork, so when we hang out we often eat chicken. I don’t mind though – I like chicken.”
So there you have it. Maybe the answer to world peace is chicken? Or we could be like the kids these days and go vegan (I’ll leave the discussion of how we’re all going to give up cheese for another day).
Patience
I’m not just referring to the patience of our guides who had to deal with a group of bloggers who loved both taking ages to photograph anything and everything and screaming at the sight of any and every insect.
Everything about life in the Rupununi seems to require patience, from fishing to hunting to birding to dealing with needy tourists.
Genuine concern for the environment
If you’ve been following the news lately you probably read about the utterly depressing report the UN released on climate change. We’re quickly destroying the world, and no one seems to care enough to do anything about it.
Actually, Guyana’s Amerindians care.
Guyanese people take pride in their clean rivers and pristine rainforests, and no one knows better than the local communities living in the rainforest how best to take care of the land and its inhabitants.
When we first got to Rewa Eco Lodge we all asked our guide why the rooms didn’t have fans and he was just like, this is an eco lodge. And I immediately flicked through in my head all of the “eco” accommodation I’ve stayed at in the past where the air conditioning ran all day long.
And then one afternoon at Rewa we watched a video that locals had made when they saved arapaima from a pond during a drought. The water levels had sunk so low that birds were pecking at the arapaima’s backs – poor little things!
Lol arapaima are not little. They’re the world’s largest scaled fish, growing over eight feet long and weighing as much as 400 pounds. They’re monsters. But the locals decided to save them.
As we watched the team of local volunteers wrestle the arapaima into canoes and then attempt carry them to a nearby river only to have the arapaima struggle free, I started to feel seriously annoyed with the arapaima! Didn’t they know the men were trying to save them?? (Of course not.)
I leaned over to one of the other girls and asked if she would work so hard to save a bunch of fish.
Maybe I’d do it for my kids?
In the end they rescued 25 arapaima, and I gained just a tiny bit more hope that one day humans might learn to peacefully coexist with our environment.
Perspective
I’d say Guyana knows a thing or two about being misunderstood. And the thing with misunderstood people is that they tend to know that you can’t always divide the world into black and white and good an evil.
When I announced my trip to Guyana my mother, ever the geography wiz, pointed out that it’s awfully close to Venezuala, my father shook his head and remarked how awful it was when that man killed all those people in Guyana, and a few people on Instagram sent me angry messages informing me that they would never visit a country that outlaws homosexuality, much less work with the local tourism authority there.
First of all, yes Guyana shares a border with Venezuela, as do Colombia and Brazil, and yes it’s really, really sad what is happening in Venezuela right now. In Venezuela.
Secondly, how annoying must it be for Guyanese people that the only thing a whole generation of Americans knows about Guyana is that once an American cult leader established a settlement of Americans there and made them drink poisonous Kool-Aid?
And finally, I didn’t know much about Guyana before visiting, but I did know that it’s a former British colony. And all (nearly all?) British colonies were left with laws banning homosexual sex. Oh and the British also left behind legislation protecting laws inherited from the British empire from constitutional review, making it extra tricky to get rid of them. And so it’s taken an incredible amount of resources for former colonies to repeal these laws – the Supreme Court in India, everyone’s bucket list fave, only declared the law unconstitutional a few weeks ago, after decades of legal battles.
In other words, yes Guyana desperately needs to change this, but if we are going to organize a boycott I sort of feel like I should cancel future trips to Britain too.
Bubbling
Sorry to rant a bit there – if you think I need to chill don’t worry, I learned how to do that in Guyana too! Except in Guyana they call it bubbling.
Guyanese people definitely know how to sit back and enjoy life. And don’t worry if you ask a Guyanese what they’ve been up to and they respond “just bubbling.” No, they’re not trying to boil themselves alive, they’re just hanging out!
Except maybe also boiling a bit, because oh man Guyana is hot.
P.S. I finished my two vlogs from Guyana! Give them a watch if you’re up for some crazy beautiful views:
Arielle says
“but if we are going to organize a boycott I sort of feel like I should cancel future trips to Britain too.”
Yes, thank you for pointing this out! This hypocrisy never fails to infuriate me.
Silvia says
I had to rewrite that paragraph so many times to tone down my rage. The hypocrisy makes me so angry.
TOMMY says
Even though Guyana nature is mostly unexplored you need to also remember it’s still 3rd world and full of corruptions. The rivers are not clean its full of shit and piss. Guyana got ZERO proper unfractured devlp. You making it look like yon went on a 5 Star safari. BE FOR REAL !!!!!
Fredrik Goldhahn says
What a lovely post! Lets eat more Chicken! Safe Travels and Stay Awesome!
Silvia says
Yess I love chicken! haha
Nynke says
“the British also left behind legislation protecting laws inherited from the British empire from constitutional review” – that is so devious! Crazy imperialists…
This is a really interesting post!
Silvia says
Seriously, so devious! Before my blogging days I was working on a research report for a Burmese NGO about the same anti-gay laws in Burma, and it was so crazy learning about how difficult the British made it to do anything about the legislation! And I feel like it’s never talked about, so I get very worked up whenever anyone criticizes a former colony for those laws.
Dominique | dominiquetravels.com says
“Bubbling”, I love that word! I should be bubbling more in my daily life 🙂
Silvia says
Right? I’m totally tempted to use it all the time now, just hoping it doesn’t make me a poser haha
Felicia says
As a Guyanese from the coastal plain and near Georgetown, “bubbling” for me is a dance! …a specific dance in the Caribbean to dub (dancehall) music. For me, hanging out, is “liming”. Was this “bubbling” also a phrase used by the Amerindians in the hinterland? Look forward to hearing more, and thank you for your generous post of our beautiful Guyana!
Leith Yearwood says
Yep ”liming” is word we use we use for hanging out with friends. When I was a young man growing up in Guyana in the 70’s and 80’s ‘bubbling” was a dance where you stood pretty much in one spot with a drink of ”Bubbly” which was a champagne like ”soft” drink with some alcohol in it that got you drunk on an empty stomach very quickly, and rocked your hips and legs slowly as you soaked in the rhythm and got sozzled slowly. I always associated the term ”bubbling” with that early memory of everyone getting high on Bubbly and dancing. I think it later changed into just the term for the dance without the particular drink.
Jayana says
This is correct “liming” is used to describe “hanging out” in Guyana. And indeed “bubbling” is used to describe “dancing” but it has also been used to describe when someone is “wasting time” or not taking opportunity to do something Eg. If some says “grades were posted days ago, did you check yours yet?” And you respond in the negative they would say “yuh bubbling boy” ……. meaning youre wasting time/opportunity
Renautha says
Bubbling could mean liming as well my freind. It all depends on context
david a. martins says
Actually, “bubbling”, as used here, refers to a way of life, an attitude, or a position, rather than just a dance. The term pertains to a way of being, of the “how” rather than the “what” in our behaviour. It originated in the United States as a ghetto term for life style behaviours created by jazz and pop music performers in that country, but the category is broad and takes in way more than dancing or music so that “bubbling” can be used to describe one’s demeanour, or dress, or use of language as having a certain free-flowing and even debonair flavour.
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Kevin says
“bubbling” is a new slang used mainly among young Guyanese and Caribbean people. Mainly influenced from Jamaican Dancehall Music. it is also used to describe a dance in times old. If someone says “we bubbling” *Guyanese dialect* it means that we are just sitting doing nothing of consequence or chilling or relaxing or limning.
Yolan says
As a Guyanese living in Region #4 bubbling is mainly refer to as your just chilling not doing anything At The Moment #liming.
Anna says
As a proud Guyanese, I love that you took away from our country the things that every Guyanese has at heart…our hospitality and truly welcoming nature.
Sharon Samaroo says
Hi Silvia,
Thank you for recognizing we’re more than just the Jim Jones story! We are a small nation, but proud of our country culture for sure, its a little backward in some practices and we are very aware we have ways to go but we’ll change at our pace. Hope you tried our foods, its a true reflection of our ethnic diversity all in harmony. Thank you again!
P.S I was a true fan of Anthony Bourdain and I was hoping he’d make it to Guyana shores one day to showcase our food and culture. So sad! Hopefully Andrew Zimmern will do us the favor. 🙂
R S. Dasai says
Sharon.
Our ‘culture(s) is/are diverse and ancient, not backward. sitting on the floors in our Mosques and Mandirs do not make us backward. Dressing up to go to ‘church’ and sitting on benches and chairs do not make one ‘forward’ or ‘civilised’.Pax tecum.
Daria says
I love your blog and this post, but it’s also true that if you are worried about climate change you should cut down air travel. There is no way we can continue hopping on planes like we do and not destroy the world in a couple of years.
Anisa says
Thank you for the wonderful blog about my beautiful country! Guyanese love “bubbling” so much we have many national holidays lol. Including (but not limited to) various religious holy days where the whole country takes the day/weekend/week off eg Holi (phagwah), Diwali, Christmas, Easter, Eid-Ul-Adha, Eid-Ul-Fitr and people of all backgrounds participate in some way or another. Our acceptance of diversity is one thing I’m so proud of in my country! We have our issues but hey which country doesn’t? Glad your trip was a good one and come again for some chicken curry and cook-up! 😀
Ps: we had a pride parade a few months ago. It was great! 🙂
Merviana says
Thanks for the positive light shed on my country. ..Do come again..next time stay on coast we got a whole different type of “bubbling”..lol
We appreciate this seriously , thanks.
Johann E. David says
Thanks for visiting my Beautiful Country… do Come again… Guyana is the best…
Y’all would love our Creole (Broken English)
J.E.D says
Thank you for your great comments about My Country(The Best) … but Guyana will always be a great place to visit… so bring more frenz next time…lol…
Ps. We dont need to Legalize Homosexuality practice… you said it yourself that we are different… if we Legalize that, then we will be just like other Countries which we rather not be… Thanks again…
Rebecca Low says
Hi! I just wanted to commend you for writing this absolutely outstanding article. I am from Guyana, currently studying in Philadelphia. This article is truly an accurate representation of what encompasses the heart of my beloved home. Thank you for sharing your insights and therefore helping to deminish the notorious beliefs of some others.
MizAnn says
Thank you for this. It gave me a moment to see Guyana from a different angle for a moment. Living here and being so immersed in the day to day has made me forget how diverse my home is.
Seon says
As a 1st generation guyanese-american from New York, who never been to my family home. This piece of work which was well written gave me a sense of pride to be from here. thank you!
Tricy says
Thank you for sharing!!. Do come again to our diverse and beautiful land!!
Kery says
I’m one of the many Guyanese that never visited this part of the country. I sincerely enjoyed reading your blog and watching the video.
I was intrigued by your wonderful experience in our diverse and beloved Guyana.
Hope it’s not your last 🙂
tornell benn says
im a Guyanese and im glad to see someone actually appreciate out culture and our life style you should visit berbice or kuru kururu or even linden there are some beautiful sights there it’s the country side though but continue doing what you are doing i support you
Jayana says
Glad to see someone sharing great experiences from Guyana. 👌🏽❤
keifa watson says
it seems like you enjoyed your trip here, thanks for visiting.
Candacy Subrattie says
So happy to read your Blog about my home, Guyana. Very refreshing videos.
Our People try to live up to our motto: One People, One Nation, One Destiny.
All the best!
Diana says
As a Guyanese with family living in the Rupununi – thank you for this wonderful blog/vlog on Guyana. You certainly captured the essence of the people and the country. There are none like the Guyanese for hospitality. And yes it is “liming” that we do and it is a Great Land of many cultures, rivers and plains.
Thank you again.
Mohamed says
Guyanese invented ‘liming’ (hanging out). I always thought bubbling was a dance. Yeah, we all eat chicken..lol. I don’t eat pork, so my pepper pot at Christmas time is made with beef and yes, we all enjoy each other’s holidays. You will see Muslim, Hindu and Christian owned businesses taking out ads wishing everyone a Merry Christmas, Happy Diwali and Eid Mubarak. The politicians try their best to make problems, but at the end of the day we really cannot do without each other. We all love we Chicken curry, Chowmein, Roti, provision (plantains, cassava, eddoes, yams, etc.), saltfish & bake, pepper pot, cook-up, and so many more. One more thing, we love to laugh at ourselves.
The only people we don’t like are the Trinidadians (Trinis). Them and they Curry Chicken, HA! Okay, we don’t really hate them, but they liking us more now only because they hear we got oil and you know.. oil don’t spoil. the song says – coolie and blackman, chinee and whiteman, putagee and buckman, all awee a wan.
Yolan says
As a Guyanese living in Region #4 bubbling is mainly refer to as your just chilling not doing anything At The Moment #liming.
Devon abrams says
The word bubbling is widely used by younger mainly those born between 1995_2005 and it commonly means that “you are wasting time or day dreaming”
Jerri says
I love Guyana so much I fell in love with a Guyanese girl and married her. There you are.
Donessa says
Wow lovely, great choice 🥰
Farah says
After a long time away, in which I lived in many other countries, I returned to Guyana for a vacation. I visited the Rupununni area. Even though I am Guyanese, I found it tough going with the heat, humidity, insects and simplicity of the eco-lodges. But the birds, animals, the unbroken jungle, massive rivers, Kaiteur waterfalls and the kindness of the people, made it worth it. It is a unique place, and a real treasure – there are not many swathes of natural first growth tropical rain forest like that left in the world.
Regarding LGBT rights, it might be illegal in Guyana, but I have never heard of that law being upheld. This is common is a lot of the Caribbean, rather than try to overthrow the old laws, they just don’t enforce them. The current President, Granger said that this law is a violation of human rights.
Guyana isn’t perfect. A history of slavery, indentureship, colonialism, the old British ‘divide and conquer’ rationale to instill racism as an electoral factor have left scars that persist. Even after independence, over 40 years of corrupt governments has reduced our once beautiful homeland to a poverty stricken, lawless country. The current Government is trying very hard to rectify these faults and ensure that its newfound wealth benefits everyone.
With its unique ecology – tropical rain forest, savannahs and Mount Roraima in the Guiana highlands, Guyana will probably become more popular as it is developed. We aren’t like the rest of the Caribbean, all rum cocktails and beachwear, with the locals prepped and pruned as background props for mass tourism. So you can visit now while it is still wild, untamed, uncomfortable and inconvenient or you can wait for a few years when it will probably be as accessible as Starbucks.