Danielle and I originally didn’t think we’d have time to visit Essaouira, Morocco’s famous yet totally laid-back beach getaway, but then we ended up blitzing through the Sahara Desert (can you blitz on a camel?) so we were able to spend three nights in Essaouira.
And I’m so glad we did because it ended up being my favorite place in Morocco! Like, I would happily book another trip to Morocco just to return to Essaouira.
I loved Essaouira’s chilled atmosphere, the fresh seafood there was amazing, and I might be in the minority here, but I actually found Essaouira more beautiful than the Pinterest-famous Chefchaouen.
Or maybe I loved Essaouira so much because it marked the start of the “holiday” part of my two weeks in Morocco.
breakfast at Villa Maroc – some the best meals I had in Morocco!
As a former backpacker, I sometimes find it hard to find a balance between wanting to reap the benefits of the rough, independent travel style of backpackers while also indulging just a bit in a grown-up vacation. But I think Danielle and I did a really good job of getting the best of both worlds in Morocco.
For the first half of our two week trip in Morocco, we stayed with locals in Airbnbs, as well as a few nights with Danielle’s friend who’s just finishing up three years with the Peace Corps in a small village outside of Fes. I feel like I learned so much about Morocco during our first week there, especially in the village, but it was also sort of exhausting. Am I getting old?
So we gave ourselves three full days to enjoy Essaouira, staying at the gorgeous Villa Maroc and even spending an afternoon at Villa Maroc’s gardens and pool outside of Essaouira. And oh it was so nice!
I think another reason I loved Essaouira so much was the amazing company we kept there. Danielle and I caught a late-night shared taxi from Marrakech to Essaouira straight from our bus from the Sahara Desert in Merzouga, and we ended up sharing with the sweetest couple. The woman was from Texas and her husband was Saharan, and we ended up hanging out together every night we were in Essaouira.
One of the things I miss most from my backpacking days is constantly meeting other travelers while on the road.
I also loved wandering through Essaouira’s medina.
Sorry, I can’t seem to stop with the Essaouira photos. It was just so pretty there! Apparently we were also really lucky with the weather – usually, it’s really windy, but it was totally still, which meant that the sea was extra clear and blue.
view from a window of a synagogue in Essaouira
We wandered pretty aimlessly around town, but there are also some cool activities available to book in Essaouira like horseback riding and camel riding. I also have friends who booked a 3-day surf trip and loved it. And if you’re into adventure activities, you can find a bunch of cool adventure tours in Essaouira here. So you have loads of options!
Where to eat in Essaouira
Probably the best meal I had in Essaouira was at Ramsess. The food was so, so good, and the woman who runs it was incredibly friendly.
We also tried the fresh seafood stands by the harbor – they’re all exactly the same, so we just picked one. Here you can pick out fresh seafood to eat and they’ll grill it for you there. They tried to pile our plate with a bunch of things we didn’t want, but it was fairly easy to then choose our own options and agree on a price – just be very clear on what the final price will be before they cook it all up for you.
And if you want to experience Moroccan nightlife, Taros has a rooftop terrace with live music/dj and a bar (a rarity in Morocco). It was fun to hear which songs all the Moroccans went crazy for!
Accommodation in Essaouira
Villa Maroc might be a splurge for Morocco, but it is so worth it. I found it randomly on Booking.com, but it turns out Villa Maroc is quite famous for launching the popularity of riads throughout Morocco. It’s huge – I think I got lost just about every time I tried to find my room – with a maze of the prettiest little corners.
Staying there also made me obsessed with Moroccan decor – would it be weird to have a Moroccan theme inside a Norwegian log cabin?
And after an exhausting 17-hour journey from the desert to Essaouira, it was really nice to relax at the pool at Villa Maroc’s gardens. The pool is in the middle of a garden of olive and argan trees, making for a peaceful escape from the city. It was also my first real dose of Vitamin D after a long Norwegian winter, and I think I needed it!
Guests of Villa Maroc can visit the gardens free of charge – you just have to pay for the 15-minute transfer, which the hotel can arrange for you. There’s also an optional barbecue lunch at the gardens. The Villa Maroc Gardens are also open to people who aren’t staying at the hotel.
Click here for the latest prices and more details about Villa Maroc
Getting to Essaouira
We got a shared taxi from Marrakech, and then also had a shared taxi on our way back from Essaouira.
But getting the taxi involved a lot of waiting around for other potential passengers to arrive, so if you’re on a tight schedule and are only visiting Essaouira on a day trip then I’d recommend booking a driver, which you can do here.
What to Wear in Essaouira
As Essaouira is a beach city, some tourists were more relaxed with their clothing choices. I saw a lot of short sundresses, shorts, and tank tops. So if you want to bare a little skin in Morocco, this might be the best place to do it.
Personally, I still didn’t feel comfortable showing skin in Essaouira – the women walking around in sundresses and shorts got a lot of stares and attention that I wasn’t really in the mood for. So I kept with light blouses, cotton trousers, and long skirts. In mid-March it was still quite cool in the evenings, so I wore warm sweaters at night.
And if you want to wear a bikini at the beach then there are certain areas in front of resorts and restaurants where it’s acceptable. On the main beach nearest the medina I only saw men in swimsuits – women were fully covered.
Have you visited Morocco? What was your favorite place?
Kristin says
I can’t get over those vivid vibrant blues – the colors are just gorgeous! And I totally want to incorporate some of those design elements. Beautiful!
Silvia says
Seriously, Moroccan design is gorgeous
Nynke says
Essaouira looks and sounds lovely! I think you’ve forgotten its first ‘a’ a couple of times in the middle of your text; does that mean the word only has three syllables instead of the four I expected based on my best French spelling?
Silvia says
Haha really it just means I was very tired when editing this post! But I guess the ‘a’ is almost silent (said very quickly).
Arielle says
That looks so pretty! Just as pretty (if not prettier) than Chefchaouen! I am definitely putting it on my list for when I move to the south of Spain.
Silvia says
You’ll be so close!
Jordan says
I’m obsessed with all the blues, reds, and yellows. They are starting Ryanair flights from Hamburg to Morocco so I’m loving all these posts!
Silvia says
Oooh exciting!
Karlie says
I was going to ask what women wore to the beach in Morocco since I couldn’t imagine everyone running around in bikinis at all (especially since even in India in Goa, the bikini isn’t really worn–I’ve heard it’s now against the law). Glad to have that question answered! The photos look gorgeous. I am just reading a book where Essaouira is a city they visit, and I’m glad to have an image to put to the place.
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Silvia says
Yeah, to be honest I’m not sure I would want to wear a bikini anywhere besides at a hotel swimming pool there, but it sounds like in some areas it’s acceptable
Dominique | dominiquetravels.com says
I love the photos of Essaouira! I never imagined it would be so pretty! I can’t wait to make my way to Morocco one day, it looks like such a magical place!
Silvia says
I was surprised by how pretty it is too!
Milou says
That looks lovely! And I know exactly what you mean about wanting both to travel and relax a bit. I always find that after a few nights in a hostel I crave a bit of privacy – which I actually think is a pretty healthy human need. Essaouira (always have to check the spelling lol) has been on my wishlist for a while, I can’t wait to return to Morocco and visit it, it looks positively dreamy!
Ps. I’m sure you totally blitzed on that camel. X
Silvia says
True, I think it is healthy to have that balance (especially as an introvert!)
Danielle Theriault says
I have never heard of Essaouira before. It looks stunning. If I ever make it to Morocco it will be a must see on my list! | http://ourpassportpages.com/
Silvia says
Yesss definitely add it to the list!
Anne Morgan says
Love your photos, those colours are amazing. And you managed to include cute cat pictures too!
Molly says
Hi, I’m wondering what camera did you use for these photos? Thanks!
Silvia says
I used a Canon 5d Mark ii with the 24 – 105 mm lens – you can see more info about my camera equipment and editing tools here: https://www.heartmybackpack.com/shop/
VJ says
Informative. Did you book your bus tickets in advance or did you buy them just like a walk-in? I am planning to visit in mid to end March – so, wondering if you had any info on that?
Jovan says
Hi! I really like this post about Essaouira its seems amazing. I am looking to go camping with tents on Morocco’s cost this summer, do you know what are the cool beaches and camping sites on the coast? Nothing too fancy, just simple camping places where we can stay with tents. Thank you!
Silvia says
Oh I’m afraid I didn’t do any camping in tents in Morocco, so I’m not the best person to ask. Sounds fun though!
Malina says
Oh god, I was excited about my trip there already, but this post took it up a level even 😀 I love the pool in the Jardins of that hotel you stayed at but already have booked a place to stay (and as I’m travelling alone it’s a bit out of my price range anyway). But you said you can also go there if you’re not a hotel guest, how does it work? I couldn’t find that on their website anywhere, do you just go there and pay some entrance fee or something and then can lounge at the pool?
Silvia says
I think you have to arrange it at the hotel, as they provide transport as well. You can probably email them and ask!
ania says
the photos are awesome! we are going to Essaouira in a few days time, after reading your article I’m, even more, looking forward to it. We are planning to stay there for around one month – with a small break to visit Marrakech
Jo says
Hi Ania,
I’m going to Essaouirra in a couple of weeks (for 5 days) & then heading to Marrakesh for 3 nights.The shuttle service (Souktosurf)that I was going to book is closed until mid November,so I was planning on taking a bus.Is that the best way to get to Marrakesh ?as I’m a solo traveller & I’m on a budget,so hiring a car (just for me) isn’t an option.
Any info would be very much appreciated.
Anas says
Beautiful blog, and happy to hear you had such a great time in Essaouira!
Almost all visitors they extended them days after visiting it.
Leah says
Hi. What month were you there? I ask because you said it was so chill there, but i think it can be busy some parts of the year and time of the day.
Silvia says
I believe it was March!
Laura says
Hello! Thank you very Michel for All the information you have shared. I am In Morocco right now and it has been really helpful.
I wanted to ask about the shared tacos in Essaouira because I don’t seem to be able to find them here.