When I first moved to Norway nearly a decade (!) ago, I asked a colleague where she would recommend I take a spring road trip. And she told me there’s no better place to visit in Norway in May than Hardangerfjord.
Hardangerfjord is Norway’s second longest fjord, after Sognefjord. But beyond its impressive length, Hardangerfjord is famous in Norway for all of its fruit orchards, including apples, cherries, plums, strawberries, and raspberries. In fact Hardangerfjord is often referred to as the orchard of Norway. And while Hardangerfjord is always a beautiful place to visit, it’s particularly stunning in May when all the fruit trees are in bloom!
I used to say that spring was my least favorite season in Norway, because in many areas of the country it’s incredibly wet and muddy with melting snow and not quite yet warm temperatures. But since moving to Bergen I have fallen in love with Norwegian spring, at least here on the west coast where the temperatures are mild and the flowers plentiful. And while I love spring in the city, I must admit I also love living so close to Hardangerfjord now as well. Because I think my colleague was right about Hardangerfjord in May – there’s no place I’d rather visit either.
So when my friends Bryce and Alicia came to visit last week, I knew exactly where I wanted to take them. I booked a cabin near Utne along Hardangerfjord and we set out on the most beautiful road trip.
If you want to rent a car in Norway, I recommend comparing prices on Auto Europe. I’ve also shared a guide to driving in Norway here.
Utne is about 2.5 hours from Bergen, however I also wanted to show Bryce and Alicia the other side of the fjord, by Ullensvang, so we took the (very) long way there, looping around the entire fjord.
Personally I think Sørfjorden is the most beautiful branch of Hardangerfjord, and the stretch between Lofthus and Tyssedal is the most beautiful part of the road along Sørfjorden, taking you alongside beautiful orchards set right above the fjord, with a stunning backdrop of snowcapped mountains on the other side of the fjord.
Stop by a supermarket and pick up some locally made apple cider (with or without alcohol) and take in the view.
Lofthus
The drive from Bergen to Lofthus takes about 2.5 hours. It includes a long tunnel (with a roundabout inside!) which opens up directly onto the spectacular Hardanger Bridge. I’m actually quite nervous driving over bridges so the tunnel + bridge combo is sort of terrifying to me, but since Bryce was driving I actually got to enjoy it this time!
The drive between Lofthus and Tyssedal takes about 30 minutes but sometimes longer because the road is quite narrow. Be prepared to take it slowly and pull over for oncoming traffic (sometimes there’s only space for one car at a time). But you’ll want to drive slowly anyway so that you can take in all the beautiful views! But please never stop your car on the road to take photos – always pull over into parking areas, so you don’t put people in danger.
Lofthus is also the starting (or ending) point of the Dronningstien hike between Lofthus and Kinsarvik. The hike takes about 6 – 9 hours and offers views out over Hardangerfjord, the Folgefonna glacier, and orchards filled with thousands of apple trees.
Ullensvang
Ullensvang is my favorite town along Hardangerfjord. The views here are so pretty, and Ullensvang is also home to one of Norway’s most beloved hotels. Hotel Ullensvang was first opened in 1846 and now is one of the region’s best spa hotels with both an indoor and outdoor pool and a private beach. Edvard Grieg was a regular guest here, and the hotel has hosted celebrity guests including European royals, Indira Gandhi, Willy Brandt and Henry Kissinger. Check prices and availability at Hotel Ullensvang here.
Tyssedal & Trolltunga
Tyssedal is perhaps most well known for its proximity to one of Norway’s most famous hikes: Trolltunga. The hike starts in Skjeggedal, a 15 minute drive inland from Tyssedal. Trolltunga is a spectacular hike, but as one of Norway’s most popular hikes, it can be incredibly busy in the summer. Often there’s a long line at the top to take photos. It’s also quite a difficult hike, so if you don’t have a lot of hiking experience I highly recommend going with a guide. This guided Trolltunga hike is perfect, plus it includes epic photos of you on the “Troll’s Tongue.”
Or if you’d like a quieter hiking experience on Hardangerfjord, this hiking excursion and overnight in a tree tent near Tyssedal looks incredible. I spent the night in a tree tent on Romsdalsfjorden a few summers ago and it’s still one of my favorite memories.
And if you want to stay in Tyssedal, Tyssedal Hotel is well known for its excellent cuisine as well as its connection to the nearby Norwegian Museum of Hydro Power and Industry. The hotel also houses an impressive art collection. Check prices and availability at Tyssedal Hotel here.
Odda
And after you pass Hardangerfjord’s beautiful orchards, you’ll eventually end up in Odda!
If you’ve seen Ragnarok on Netflix, you’ll recognize Odda already. And if you haven’t seen Ragnarok, you need to see Ragnarok. Before we arrived in Odda I made sure to warn Bryce and Alicia that town is considered quite ugly. Odda is an important industrial town in Norway, home to several factories and industries including a large zinc smelter.
But I also understood their confusion when we arrived in Odda, with its colorful wooden houses perched on the steep mountainsides rising up out of the fjord. Odda is actually really beautiful?
I’ve always chuckled at the way Norwegians talk about Odda. Perhaps their dislike of Odda comes from a mixture of living in Norway – if some place in this beautiful country must be considered ugly, I guess Odda is all they can come up with – and the memory of how polluted Odda used to be in the past. But today it is lovely!
Utne
We stayed at a cabin near Utne, which has beautiful views and is also a great hiking area on the fjord.
I can also recommend staying at the Utne Hotel, which dates back to 1722 and is perfect for anyone who enjoys unique, historical accommodation.
Folgefonna Glacier
And then if you want to drive around to Jondal on the other side of the fjord, you can visit Folgefonna National Park, home to the third biggest glacier in mainland Norway, Folgefonna Glacier. We didn’t go there this time, because we had to get back to Bergen to plan my birthday party!
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