I know what you must be thinking: “Off the beaten path in Thailand? Is that even possible?”
True, Thailand is the most popular tourist destination in Southeast Asia, and most of the time travelers will find themselves surrounded by plenty of other foreign faces. But there is at least one last special place in northeastern Thailand that still remains nearly tourist-free: Isaan.
Okay, so it might be unpopular with vacationers because most guidebooks describe Isaan (or Isan) as “flat, boring landscape filled with endless rice paddies,” but after a week traveling through Isaan I would beg to differ!
Isaan offers tourists beautiful views of Laos out over the Mekong, authentically Thai cities that feel a bit like traveling back in time, some seriously delicious food, and extraordinarily friendly locals!
After wandering through Nong Khai’s bizarre statue park, Dan and I rented a motorbike to explore some neighboring towns perched along the Mekong river.
Sangkhom
This small town is 50 kilometers from Nong Khai and while at first glance it didn’t seem particularly special, once I realized that all of the restaurants and guest houses were set with beautiful views of the Mekong I was hooked. Dan and I spent two nights at Buoy Guest House, and oh my goodness, this guest house alone warrants a trip to Isaan!
After crossing a precarious looking bridge we stepped onto a grassy cliff dotted with the prettiest little bungalows I ever did see. And then a huge bright blue butterfly flew by. Yup, I had landed in a Dr. Seuss book.
Our bungalow even had a hammock – perfect for some riverside blogging!
Someone even managed to wake up to watch the sunrise over Laos (hint: it wasn’t me).
But my favorite part about the bungalow was the mosquito net!
Uh, let me explain.
Firstly, all the creatures loudly scampering about in the middle of the night made me oh so grateful to be safely tucked into a mosquito net. But even better, at night a bright light shining outside squeezed through the tiny holes in our hut’s woven bamboo walls to project stars of light onto the net. It was like sleeping in a planetarium! I wish I could have photographed it.
Than Thip Waterfall
The 13 kilometer drive along the Mekong to Than Thip waterfall was beautiful, but also left us pretty sweaty, thanks to a very hot and humid wet season going on in Thailand right now. It was the perfect time for a dip in Than Thip’s chilly waters!
Pak Chom
From Than Thip waterfall we drove another 50 kilometers to Pak Chom, and oh what a pretty drive it was!
We then returned to Nong Khai to catch a train to Nakhon Ratchasima.
Nakhon Ratchasima
Nakhom Ratchasima, or Khorat, was a strange city to visit, mostly because it felt just like Chiang Mai, except without the tourists and brand new sparkling malls. Seriously, just like Chiang Mai. Its old city is the same size as Chiang Mai’s and is also surrounded by a moat.
We spent two days in Nakhom Ratchasima, Isaan’s second largest city, mostly just wandering through its markets in search of delicious food (which we found!), watching locals nudge each other and excitedly whisper farang (foreigner) to each other as we walked past.
Ubon Ratchathani
After a day exploring the city, Dan announced that if he were planning to stay in Thailand next year, he would want to live in Ubon Ratchathani.
The locals were (again) super friendly and seemed happy to see some foreigners, the food markets could give Chiang Mai’s a serious run for their money, and the many quirky riverside bars would make the perfect place to unwind after a hard day teaching English to Thai schoolchildren (or whatever else an expat would do in Ubon Ratchathani).
To travel along the Mekong, we rented a motorbike in Nong Khai for 250 baht ($8) a day.
In Sangkhom we stayed at Buoy Guesthouse in a riverside bungalow. Check current prices for Buoy Guesthouse
We took the train from Nong Khai to Nakhon Ratchasima, which took about seven hours and cost 60 baht ($2) each.
The train to from Nakhon Ratchasima to Ubon Ratchatani was 57 ($2) baht each and took about six hours.
Lina says
The bungalow looks AMAZING! Totally like something from Dr. Seuss 🙂
Silvia says
Haha it really was!
Steph (@ 20 Years Hence) says
Gorgeous photos that definitely give Isan its due! I have to admit, my favourite places in Thailand tend to be the random little towns and villages that most other travelers pass over—not only do they tend to be pretty, but they often have the BEST food and the locals are so friendly and not fatigued by tourists. We didn’t explore Isan nearly as much as we would have liked but I know that we’ll be back to Thailand again one day… Your bungalow in Sangkhom looks like absolute paradise!
Silvia says
It really was paradise! I’m glad you enjoyed Isaan as much as I did. I totally agree that Thailand’s best spots seem to be the random, sort of unpopular places.
kami says
For some reason Thailand has never attracted me all that much but after reading this post and seeing these pics I’m really tempted to go as suddenly it seems like the place I’d enjoy 🙂
Silvia says
Yeah there are plenty of places in Thailand that feel a bit icky, but also so many wonderful ones! You should definitely go, and stop by Chiang Mai to visit me 🙂
emi says
looks GORGEOUS of course, and that food….!! adore your blog, so glad i just found it! we are kindred spirits! 🙂
xo welltraveledwife.com
Silvia says
Aaah using the term “kindred spirits” definitely confirms that we must be!
Kate says
Thanks for sharing something other than all the tourist spots! Thailand looks like a beautiful place! Looking forward to visiting one day.
Raincheck for Timbuktu
Silvia says
Yeah, while the islands definitely deserve the hype, there’s so much more to Thailand than the typical tourist spots!
Sabina @GirlvsGlobe says
I’m completely obsessed with Thailand & never heard of Isaan. Looks amazing, your pictures are incredible 🙂 Definitely a place I’d like to visit.
Silvia says
I didn’t know anything about Isaan before I went, but it really blew my mind. It’s crazy that it’s not on more people’s radar!
Agness says
This island is absolutely amazing. I love how green it is!! So in love with the local cuisine!
Silvia says
It’s actually mainland Thailand, just along the Mekong River! And yeah, I was sooo in love with the food – maybe too much so, haha.
Chang Noi says
Getting of the beaten track is most time just a step away as 90% of the tourist stick to the beaten track. And although there is a a lot of tourism in Thailand, most of the tourist go to the same places. Let’s keep it that way …
Silvia says
Haha it is tempting to keep Thailand’s hidden gems a secret! And so true that there are so many great things to discover right off the beaten path.
Victoria@ The British Berliner says
I love the bungalows. So sweet, and that pile of food. Yum! I’ve been to Thailand 3 times, there’s always something new around the corner. Happy Travelling!
Silvia says
Seriously yum! I do love how there’s just so much to discover in Thailand.
Susan says
Ah, these images are stunning! I haven’t been to Thailand yet, but it looks like a place I’d love to have in front of my lens.
Silvia says
I did my best to capture it, but I’m sure your photos would do it much more justice, Susan!
sheri says
Great little post and photos. How did you feel about safety? I’m a female traveling solo. Was it easy to get around and did you feel safe? Also, can you get around without riding a motorbike? Thanks!
Ian says
Curious about the water quality and availability in that region. Thanks.
Silvia says
We just either bought big bottles of water at local shops or filled up at water refill stations that are scattered around most Thai cities.
Paulo Silva says
Lovely lovely lovely. Planning a trip to Thailand with my wife. Isan is everything i like and want eheheheheh. Can you give me so e advices about how to go from Bangkok to Isan ?! What’s the best transportation ?!
Once again … Loved your blog 😉
Silvia says
I took the train! Thai trains are really comfortable, and they go from Bangkok into Isaan (just Google the routes).
Aleks says
Hi silvia, yr blog is great ! We are planing to go to osam this test and we really like The ByoB guest house . Would u be so kind to let me know how i Can make reservations because I can’t do it through trip advisor and they don’t have website 🙂 as well is there any particular guide that u would recommend for east part of Thailand ? We have 3 weeks for east including the islands on east too (ko Mao and ko Chang )
Thank you for any advice in advance
Silvia says
Honestly, I would just show up without a reservation – I would be very surprised if it’s full! Sorry I don’t have any other information to give you, but I think it will be fine. Have a fun trip!
GABEL joseph says
I there!
Thanck for your article:) we are in isaan right now and love it so far. We can’t wait to try the bungalows!
We were wondering where you stayed in ubon ratchathani? What would u suggest?
Tks a lot
Silvia says
I actually wrote a whole post about Ubon Ratchathani, including where I stayed. You can find it here: http://www.heartmybackpack.com/thailand/off-the-path-ubon-ratchathani-isaan/. Have fun!
Tony C says
I am an 8-year resident of Khon Kaen, the heart of Isaan, and I ran across your web site while looking for landscape photography ideas. Looking at some of the comments, it seems that the Tourist Authority of Thailand is doing a good job of promoting the major spots (Bangkok, the Gulf and Andaman islands, and Chiang Mai) but are missing the “real Thailand.” There’s a lot to see here and it’s a great waypoint for a trip into Laos.
If you haven’t been to Thailand before, spend a couple of days in Bangkok but then head up this way. You’ll be glad you did.
Korinna says
Hey Silvia, is it necessary to have an international driving license to rent those bikes?
Silvia says
I think it might technically be, but I was never checked while in Thailand, and they definitely won’t require it at the rental place.
john says
wow guys glad to see some of you think outside the box issan is my second home just south of nong khai
its where my son was born
i intend to take 13 friends there next year before we go south to dive
i will be retiring there in a few years time hopefully
Loteta says
Isaan is certainly not off the beaten path! It is famously or infamously know for Western sex tourism and sexpats. Most of the foreigners you will meet in Isaan are middle to old aged, fat, balled men, holding hands with very young Thai women and even girls!!!